Offset Drivers?

Wombatman

What do we think?

Almaviva

I think you know already the right answer is your middle poll option....

dan_ep82

Wombatman wrote: »

What do we think?

I have two average price range drivers (Wilson 1200 GE and Dunlop TP13)

The TP13 is offset and while I found it a bit easier to hit it still sliced. I'm playing with the Wilson now and slowly correcting the slice.

For Paws

dan_ep82 wrote: »

I have two average price range drivers (Wilson 1200 GE and Dunlop TP13)

The TP13 is offset and while I found it a bit easier to hit it still sliced. I'm playing with the Wilson now and slowly correcting the slice.

Well, I won't be getting one of those then.:D

Although I reckon that money spent on learning to swing properly is preferable to investing in some or other technology that 'cures' your error, anything that lends confidence to the average player is grand.

shane0007

I was slicing badly with the occasional fade. My pro said the only way he could cure me was to teach me how to draw the ball. I am now hitting dead straight with the occasional draw & an odd pull.
It's nice to be on the other side of the fairway though!

PARlance

shane0007 wrote: »

I was slicing badly with the occasional fade. My pro said the only way he could cure me was to teach me how to draw the ball. I am now hitting dead straight with the occasional draw & an odd pull.
It's nice to be on the other side of the fairway though!

Pfffff, "side" of the fairway... The centre isn't on any side

I think I could match anyone's slice until this year. Just worked at it. When you're slicing a ball a piece of equipment is nothing more than a bandaid IMO

shane0007

ajcurry123 wrote: »

Pfffff, "side" of the fairway... The centre isn't on any side

I never said the centre! I said straight, as in straight over there!

dan_ep82

For Paws wrote: »

Well, I won't be getting one of those then.:D

Although I reckon that money spent on learning to swing properly is preferable to investing in some or other technology that 'cures' your error, anything that lends confidence to the average player is grand.

lmao, didn't understand what you mean until I read it again. Replied on my phone and missed the word straighter before it

Aesop

Thinking about this yesterday, if your slice is caused by your swing path being out to in then I don't see how an offset driver is going to help you. You are still cutting across the ball. If however your swing path is correct and you are just not releasing the club through contact then an offset driver might help?

alxmorgan

Aesop wrote: »

Thinking about this yesterday, if your slice is caused by your swing path being out to in then I don't see how an offset driver is going to help you. You are still cutting across the ball. If however your swing path is correct and you are just not releasing the club through contact then an offset driver might help?

Agreed with you until this point and then lost you.
What do you mean by this ?

Aesop

On the downswing you hold the wrist cock as long as you can usually until your left arm is parallel to the ground. At this point you start to release the club by uncocking your wrists. If you leave it too late to release the club the face doesn't have time to get back square to the ball so I'm thinking in this case an offset driver helps.

Thinking about it a bit more this releasing problem is probably going to result in pushed drives more so than sliced ones if the swingpath is correct.

alxmorgan

Aesop wrote: »

On the downswing you hold the wrist cock as long as you can usually until your left arm is parallel to the ground. At this point you start to release the club by uncocking your wrists. If you leave it too late to release the club the face doesn't have time to get back square to the ball so I'm thinking in this case an offset driver helps.

Thinking about it a bit more this releasing problem is probably going to result in pushed drives more so than sliced ones if the swingpath is correct.

Yes I think you're right. Pushed as face would be open to target to it will start there

I guess the idea behind offset is to reduce the buffer between path and face for someone who hits left to right (right handed) thereby straightening up the shot

Wombatman

Good vid here showing the result of offsetting the face.

GreeBo

Aesop wrote: »

Thinking about this yesterday, if your slice is caused by your swing path being out to in then I don't see how an offset driver is going to help you. You are still cutting across the ball. If however your swing path is correct and you are just not releasing the club through contact then an offset driver might help?

A slice is an out to in swing path in relation to the club face.

If the clubface is open compared to the swing path you will get a ball moving left to right. An Offset face reduces this by squaring up the clubface, to the out to in swing path. The face would be closed for a neutral swing path.

Its a bandaid to cover a swing fault, the danger would be a pull hook if you did fix the swing or come over the top.

fullstop

Most drivers you buy off the shelf are offset to some degree

Gin77

Well just to get you thinking a little. A great swing coach called Sean Foley says a fade is hit with a club face thats square to closed and out to in path.
A draw is hit with an open face and an in to out path.
Try this ground your club in different positions around your set up at address. You will notice there is an arc formed.
Then move to your impact position weight on your left side.
Place the ball in the position that gives you the path you want. Slightly back from the bottom of your arc will give you an in to out and slightly forward will give you a fade.
Believe it if ya like, and don't shoot the messenger.

alxmorgan

Gin77 wrote: »

Well just to get you thinking a little. A great swing coach called Sean Foley says a fade is hit with a club face thats square to closed and out to in path.
A draw is hit with an open face and an in to out path.
Try this ground your club in different positions around your set up at address. You will notice there is an arc formed.
Then move to your impact position weight on your left side.
Place the ball in the position that gives you the path you want. Slightly back from the bottom of your arc will give you an in to out and slightly forward will give you a fade.
Believe it if ya like, and don't shoot the messenger.

Ya makes perfect sense.
For a fade you want to start left of target and fade back
Closed face to target means start left and more leftward path than face means fade back

stockdam

fullstop wrote: »

Most drivers you buy off the shelf are offset to some degree

Yes a lot appear to be closed; I bought a Titleist because it was neutral.

GreeBo

Gin77 wrote: »

Well just to get you thinking a little. A great swing coach called Sean Foley says a fade is hit with a club face thats square to closed and out to in path.
A draw is hit with an open face and an in to out path.
Try this ground your club in different positions around your set up at address. You will notice there is an arc formed.
Then move to your impact position weight on your left side.
Place the ball in the position that gives you the path you want. Slightly back from the bottom of your arc will give you an in to out and slightly forward will give you a fade.
Believe it if ya like, and don't shoot the messenger.

a pull fade is a square to closed face compared to your *target*, it's still open compared to your swing path though, otherwise it can't possibly fade, the ball will start left and stay left, a pull, or start left and go even more left if your face was actually closed to your swing path.
Foley or not!

fullstop

stockdam wrote: »

Yes a lot appear to be closed; I bought a Titleist because it was neutral.

Probably still slightly closed, only a couple of degrees, I know mine is anyway. I have an R510 TP that I used to use years ago and the difference between it and most is very noticeable. It looks very open

Gin77

GreeBo wrote: »

a pull fade is a square to closed face compared to your *target*, it's still open compared to your swing path though, otherwise it can't possibly fade, the ball will start left and stay left, a pull, or start left and go even more left if your face was actually closed to your swing path.
Foley or not!

Your right greenbo Sean Foley has nothing on you although, let me think...

I don't know many people who set up to a shot thinking is the face open or closed to their club path.
Its usually the target line people set up to at address.

Rikand

i fixed my swing

I still need an offset driver

GreeBo

Gin77 wrote: »

Your right greenbo Sean Foley has nothing on you although, let me think...

I don't know many people who set up to a shot thinking is the face open or closed to their club path.
Its usually the target line people set up to at address.

not sure where the attitude is coming from?

if you want to hit a pull fade out a push draw then you do have to think about it.
you need to open/close your stance and then adjust the face so the ball starts out on the path you want and moves by the correct amount.
if you swing out to in by 15 degrees then opening the face the same amount will mean the ball still pretty much starts on your target line.
this is vital if you are trying to bend it around a close tree for example.

Gin77

GreeBo wrote: »

not sure where the attitude is coming from?

if you want to hit a pull fade out a push draw then you do have to think about it.
you need to open/close your stance and then adjust the face so the ball starts out on the path you want and moves by the correct amount.
if you swing out to in by 15 degrees then opening the face the same amount will mean the ball still pretty much starts on your target line.
this is vital if you are trying to bend it around a close tree for example.

Apologies Greenbo I was making the point on relation to the topic, "offset drivers".
Most people who struggle with a slice (I have in the past) think they need a closed face on an offset driver to draw the ball and counter the slice which isn't true.
So my post was keeping things simple and I didn't want to get into the technical side too much.
I know what you are saying 10deg out to in path with a 10 deg closed face will give you a pull. For a pull fade there needs to be a differential between the path and the face ie. 10 deg out to in path and a 7 deg closed club face will give you a 3 deg differential and a pull fade, therefore open to the club path.
The attitude came from your Sean Foley or not!! comment and the fact you made a simple explaination complicated.

realgolfgeek

I think there should be an "EPIC" Slice thread.

PARlance

realgolfgeek wrote: »

I think there should be an "EPIC" Slice thread.

I'd like the poll result to be in a Pie Diagram...... (can you see this one coming?)








That way it'd be easier to see what Slice of the Pie.... I'm not even going to finish that Goodpie

realgolfgeek

bit early to be drinkin squire ?!

PARlance

realgolfgeek wrote: »

bit early to be drinkin squire ?!

I started late