Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Repairing Plastic Spiral Pipe ???

Options
  • 28-09-2013 11:20am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭


    Hi Folks,

    The water filler pipe in my camper has what seems to be a pinprick leak and if at all possible I would like to repair it rather than try to replace the pipe. If a repair doesn't work out then I can then look at replacing it but it's in a seriously confined place and will be very difficult to replace.

    One of the attached photos shows the pipe with a drop of water hanging from where I think the leak is. As far as I can make out all the rest of the pipe seems to be completely dry. The other photo is just to show the type of pipe that we are dealing with. There is only cold water in the pipe.

    I was thinking about trying to press some type of adhesive or mastic on to the pipe and then wrap it with duct tape. Some small level of flexibility would need to remain in the pipe.

    If some of my learned colleagues on this forum have any suggestions I would be very grateful.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    davidod1 wrote: »
    Hi Folks,

    The water filler pipe in my camper has what seems to be a pinprick leak and if at all possible I would like to repair it rather than try to replace the pipe. If a repair doesn't work out then I can then look at replacing it but it's in a seriously confined place and will be very difficult to replace.

    One of the attached photos shows the pipe with a drop of water hanging from where I think the leak is. As far as I can make out all the rest of the pipe seems to be completely dry. The other photo is just to show the type of pipe that we are dealing with. There is only cold water in the pipe.

    I was thinking about trying to press some type of adhesive or mastic on to the pipe and then wrap it with duct tape. Some small level of flexibility would need to remain in the pipe.

    If some of my learned colleagues on this forum have any suggestions I would be very grateful.

    Try DENSO tape, its a manky, stickey, gooey, messy type of waxy cloth tape, it should do the trick, dry the pipe with tissue paper first.
    You can buy it in plumbing shops or builders providers.
    + pair of disposable gloves.

    Wrap it around in small strips and rub in well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭davidod1


    Thanks for that Scudo2. I'll try to get some of that today. Much appreciated.

    Dave


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    davidod1 wrote: »
    Thanks for that Scudo2. I'll try to get some of that today. Much appreciated.

    Dave
    Its great stuff, you'll hate it.
    Remember pipe has to be Totaly dry. Tissue paper is best.


  • Registered Users Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    get the tec7 at it


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    I'll go with Rightjob, a tiny smear of Tec7, CT1 or any Polyurethane Adhesive will sort it, Spudo is dead right Denzo is pure muck that you'll wish you never touched.


    Ooops!!!! Too late. lol.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭davidod1


    Dried the pipe as best I could using toilet paper, got a roll of DENSO and using the silicone gloves pressed as much I could reasonably get in to the area. At the moment the tank is half full and there is no sign of any leakage.

    I'll leave it until tomorrow before assuming anything and if all is OK I'll try to get a covering of Duct Tape around the DENSO.

    Sorry Rightjob had the DENSO job done. If I'm still in trouble I might try the Tek 7.


  • Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭davidod1


    No Probs Billy Bunting; Like I said; if I'm still in trouble then I'll clean off the DENSO and try the TEK 7. They're all good ideas.

    Thanks to all

    Dave


  • Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭davidod1


    A quick question:
    If I end up having to go with the TEK 7 type of solution, will that material be flexible enough to cope with the movement that is inevitable due to the pipe and tank being in a camper?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    I built a camper in the past so know where your coming from, YES, but remember with the PA you only want a smear on the pin hole.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    I'll go with Rightjob, a tiny smear of Tec7, CT1 or any Polyurethane Adhesive will sort it, Spudo is dead right Denzo is pure muck that you'll wish you never touched.


    Ooops!!!! Too late. lol.

    Hi Billy
    I have never used tec 7 but will now.

    Would it work on weeping pump valves or do they have to be dry and no flow of water out of them. Or will it cope with a bit of dampness ?
    Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Hi Billy
    I have never used tec 7 but will now.

    Would it work on weeping pump valves or do they have to be dry and no flow of water out of them. Or will it cope with a bit of dampness ?
    Thanks

    I haven't a lot of experience with tec7 as i prefer CT1 http://www.ct1ltd.com/en/ct1.html so unsure how tec7 would be with heat, i actually first used CT1 in constructing my campervan, its generally used as a panal adhesive, i honestly would not be without it.
    I now own a boat that i keep on the Erne waterway, last year during flood conditions i had a collision with a Navigation Marker and holed the boat in 3 places, the boat was actually slowly sinking as the Bilge pumps couldnt cope with the water, i was over an hour from my Marina so in big trouble, in desperation i plastered pieces of 2x1 battons with CT1 and pressed them into the holes from the inside, it sealed instantly, the boat stayed in the water until the end of the season when it was lifted to carry out repairs, now that's what i call stuff worth having.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    I haven't a lot of experience with tec7 as i prefer CT1 http://www.ct1ltd.com/en/ct1.html so unsure how tec7 would be with heat, i actually first used CT1 in constructing my campervan, its generally used as a panal adhesive, i honestly would not be without it.
    I now own a boat that i keep on the Erne waterway, last year during flood conditions i had a collision with a Navigation Marker and holed the boat in 3 places, the boat was actually slowly sinking as the Bilge pumps couldnt cope with the water, i was over an hour from my Marina so in big trouble, in desperation i plastered pieces of 2x1 battons with CT1 and pressed them into the holes from the inside, it sealed instantly, the boat stayed in the water until the end of the season when it was lifted to carry out repairs, now that's what i call stuff worth having.

    Cheers Billy
    CT 1 for me then.
    Good story, send it on to CT1.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Hi Billy
    I have never used tec 7 but will now.

    Would it work on weeping pump valves or do they have to be dry and no flow of water out of them. Or will it cope with a bit of dampness ?
    Thanks

    have never put it on them but wont do any harm in trying it.you can apply it to basically anything andf it will flex cope wit heat and most other nthings.google it and it says all about it


  • Registered Users Posts: 340 ✭✭davidod1


    davidod1 wrote: »
    At the moment the tank is half full and there is no sign of any leakage.

    I'll leave it until tomorrow before assuming anything and if all is OK I'll try to get a covering of Duct Tape around the DENSO.

    All is well today, no leak from the pipe overnight. I've just filled the tank to the top (130 litres) and I'll wait another 24 hours to see how that goes. Assuming all is still well I'll just parcel it up with the Duct tape and put it all back together.

    I'll put an update up in the morning. Thanks for help folks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,891 ✭✭✭gifted


    tec 7 should only be used for a quick temporary fix and should not replace a more permanent fix. I knew a 4th year apprentice who put it on eveything that leaked, caught him one night putting it around a strap on boss that was leaking, turned out he didn't use the right size wholesaw for the strap and it didn't sit flush with the 4" soil pipe so he decided to fill the gap with tec 7, apparently he used put it around compression fittings if they leaked as well, he's not with the company anymore.


  • Registered Users Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    gifted wrote: »
    tec 7 should only be used for a quick temporary fix and should not replace a more permanent fix. I knew a 4th year apprentice who put it on eveything that leaked, caught him one night putting it around a strap on boss that was leaking, turned out he didn't use the right size wholesaw for the strap and it didn't sit flush with the 4" soil pipe so he decided to fill the gap with tec 7, apparently he used put it around compression fittings if they leaked as well, he's not with the company anymore.

    its fine for the type of job hes doing here,
    putting it on compression fittings is a different story!bit dearer than the uniwhite!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,891 ✭✭✭gifted


    rightjob! wrote: »
    its fine for the type of job hes doing here,
    putting it on compression fittings is a different story!bit dearer than the uniwhite!

    No, he used put it around the whole fitting, wouldn't bother his hole taking apart the fitting and putting a bit of boss on the olive :mad: the bloody animal..


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    gifted wrote: »
    No, he used put it around the whole fitting, wouldn't bother his hole taking apart the fitting and putting a bit of boss on the olive :mad: the bloody animal..

    I bet he wore spurs and had a horse rather than a van :cool:


Advertisement