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Tractor Problem- Overheating

  • 22-09-2013 9:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭


    A friend of mine has a CASE MXU 100 with the water overheating.He has changed the thermostat but the problem continues.Any solutions would be a help.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Dirac98


    Water pump might have failed
    Headgasket failure


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,825 ✭✭✭Sharpshooter82


    look for oil or white spots in your water then its your head gasket


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    No oil or white spots.I reckon head gasket is ok.Coolant is in perfect condition.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Water pump is also in working order.Belts are tight as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭EP90


    If everything you have checked already is actually ok then it can only be a blockage in waterways or radiator. Try back flushing with water to grade through a disconnected hose, check radiator airways aren’t blocked as well as internal water ways. Refill and make sure no air locks. Did he check the new thermostat before fitting? you could run it without to see if that makes a difference.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    As far as I am aware there is no blockage of any sort because it functions as normal sometimes. Flowing through rad and cooling as normal. Heater works as normal too. Heater does not work when water is not circulating.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Dirac98


    I'd take the thermostat out again and put it in a jug of near boiling water and look to see it opening and then hook it out and let it cool to see it close again.
    If the impeller on the water pump is ok and not partially siezed then if there's no blockages the only thing I can think of that the radiator might have been replaced in the past with a smaller one and deosn't perform as well when under a lot of load.
    Other than that a crack in the block?

    Are you losing any coolant over time?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Dirac98 wrote: »
    I'd take the thermostat out again and put it in a jug of near boiling water and look to see it opening and then hook it out and let it cool to see it close again.
    If the impeller on the water pump is ok and not partially siezed then if there's no blockages the only thing I can think of that the radiator might have been replaced in the past with a smaller one and deosn't perform as well when under a lot of load.
    Other than that a crack in the block?

    Are you losing any coolant over time?


    Losing no coolant only the time when it overheats.Out the expansion bottle it comes.Checked thermostat for opening and closing and it opens at the right temp. too.Checked with a thermometer.Bought tractor new.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭EP90


    Has it a temp gauge and does it read very hot when it boils over? Is the rad being over filled so its just normal expansion pushing water out into the expension bottle to get to correct level? Is the expension bottle top working properly(assume its spring loaded).
    You’ve really gone through everything, so you have missed something or its an intermittent blockage, lack of flow. As I suggested, back flush the whole system out, refill and bleed air out and run without the Thermostat.

    Take it back to the dealer ??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    EP90 wrote: »
    Has it a temp gauge and does it read very hot when it boils over? Is the rad being over filled so its just normal expansion pushing water out into the expension bottle to get to correct level? Is the expension bottle top working properly(assume its spring loaded).
    You’ve really gone through everything, so you have missed something or its an intermittent blockage, lack of flow. As I suggested, back flush the whole system out, refill and bleed air out and run without the Thermostat.

    Take it back to the dealer ??


    It started to overheat again today.Temp gauge normally floats around midways.When it starts to overheat and can hear boiling it goes to three quarter ways.Today we loosened the expansion bottle top and let air and some coolant out.Then the temp gauge started to drop and heater started to work.Rad started to get warm and cooling started as per the norm.Could it be the expansion bottle top that is not working.It does not read very hot when it boils over.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭EP90


    It still feels like an air lock though, especially when the temp returned to normal and heater works after you let some air/water out of the expansion tank. (moves/removes the airlock)

    Sorry I’m running out of ideas, it’s probably time to visit the dealer..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    Drain some water out so you can see the water flowing back into the top of the radiator from the engine.
    Start engine from cold. There should be no water flowing until engine gets hot.
    Also, radiator may have a build up of dirt in there that limits its ability to cool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    It was doing something similar 8 months ago and we changed the thermostat and the problem went away.I will see what happens today.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭EP90


    Ok my last post on this, It would have helped if you had given all the details from the start instead of drip feeding. As posted before, take the thermostat out and leave it out, if it runs cool then it’s a thermostat problem. If it still overheats then back flush engine and rad to remove sediment, ensure all the air is out including cab heater.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Trying to eliminate everything before we leave the new coolant down the drain.Thats if I cannot manage to collect it.How does one back flush engine.Still does not seem to be a thermostat problem as temp gauge is constantly moving.As if to indicate an opening and closing thermostat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,835 ✭✭✭9935452


    It started to overheat again today.Temp gauge normally floats around midways.When it starts to overheat and can hear boiling it goes to three quarter ways.Today we loosened the expansion bottle top and let air and some coolant out.Then the temp gauge started to drop and heater started to work.Rad started to get warm and cooling started as per the norm.Could it be the expansion bottle top that is not working.It does not read very hot when it boils over.


    It could be a faulty or wrong radiator cap. We had a sector 14245 which would boil constantly ant throw water out the expansion tank. We took the rubber off the cap and she never boiled again.
    Similar with a 50 hx.It was always losing coolant out the rad cap. We never fully tighten the cap anymore and it loses nothing now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    9935452 wrote: »
    It could be a faulty or wrong radiator cap. We had a sector 14245 which would boil constantly ant throw water out the expansion tank. We took the rubber off the cap and she never boiled again.
    Similar with a 50 hx.It was always losing coolant out the rad cap. We never fully tighten the cap anymore and it loses nothing now.


    Thanks for reply 9935452.Will try same.


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