whats up with my heating system?

Curry Addict

My boiler, vokera mynute 14se, fires up ok, heats the water for a couple of minutes and then trips out. it fires again after a couple of minutes and craps out again after about 60 seconds. It repeats this cycle continuously. The upstairs rads and hot water heat slowly and reach a good temperature. The rads downstairs take a couple of hours to start to heat and will eventually heat up.

I had an RAI guy out to fix it. The boiler seems to operate good. when you remove the cap from the center of the motor you can see it turning inside, the system pressure about 1.5 bar. He though it was a flow problem (the return valve heats very slowly)and likely to be sludge in the downstairs rads.

The downstairs rads were removed, flushed out and reinstalled. This had no effect and the system still operates the same.

any ideas what could be going on with my system?

Robbie.G

Curry Addict wrote: »

My boiler, vokera mynute 14se, fires up ok, heats the water for a couple of minutes and then trips out. it fires again after a couple of minutes and craps out again after about 60 seconds. It repeats this cycle continuously. The upstairs rads and hot water heat slowly and reach a good temperature. The rads downstairs take a couple of hours to start to heat and will eventually heat up.

I had an RAI guy out to fix it. The boiler seems to operate good. when you remove the cap from the center of the motor you can see it turning inside, the system pressure about 1.5 bar. He though it was a flow problem (the return valve heats very slowly)and likely to be sludge in the downstairs rads.

The downstairs rads were removed, flushed out and reinstalled. This had no effect and the system still operates the same.

any ideas what could be going on with my system?

It sounds like a circulation problem.When the boilers on do you here a hissing noise from it.It could be a partial blocked heat exchanger causing the boiler to overheat and the circulation problem downstairs could be due to sludge.If a manual flush didn't do anything I would advise a powerflush.But of course all installations should be looked at by a competent installer as we can only give indications on possible causes. best bet is to post you location here and there are plenty of good guys here that would be able to sort it out for you
Hope this is of some help

Curry Addict

there is a bit of a hiss from the boiler but nothing more than when it was operating normally. It sounds odd that the heat exchanger could become partially blocked as its high up and gravity should help there and considering its shape but what do i know! im confident the rads downstairs are grand. anything else i could be missing?

Curry Addict

Curry Addict wrote: »

there is a bit of a hiss from the boiler but nothing more than when it was operating normally. It sounds odd that the heat exchanger could become partially blocked as its high up and gravity should help there and considering its shape but what do i know! im confident the rads downstairs are grand. anything else i could be missing?

Yes, the advice given to you by Robbie.


Taking off rads is a pointless exercise and done by people with more energy than any real hope of dealing with the problem, it's pointless for the longevity of a boiler.

if you find sludge in your heating system then it requires a real flush that cleans the system correctly.

The heat exchanger is the smallest part of a heating system and is susceptible to blockage from contamination from a heating system.

Also I'd advise fitting a magnetic filter on the return to the boiler and identifying the cause of the sludge or over time it will cost you a small fortune.

Curry Addict

thanks for the info guys great advise!

scudo2

Curry Addict wrote: »

My boiler, vokera mynute 14se, fires up ok, heats the water for a couple of minutes and then trips out. it fires again after a couple of minutes and craps out again after about 60 seconds. It repeats this cycle continuously. The upstairs rads and hot water heat slowly and reach a good temperature. The rads downstairs take a couple of hours to start to heat and will eventually heat up.

I had an RAI guy out to fix it. The boiler seems to operate good. when you remove the cap from the center of the motor you can see it turning inside, the system pressure about 1.5 bar. He though it was a flow problem (the return valve heats very slowly)and likely to be sludge in the downstairs rads.

The downstairs rads were removed, flushed out and reinstalled. This had no effect and the system still operates the same.

any ideas what could be going on with my system?

what cap did you remove,( on motor ? )
You said it worked ok then. Was it the pump you were talking about ? Because I've come across a few pumps that the propeller came loose on or had a weak capactor giving the same results and symptons, worked better when plug was loosened.
I would try replacing pump first. Please let us know the outcome as we love happy replys.
Cheers and good luck.

handlemaster

I had similar problem before. the pump was gone. changed all good.

Dtp1979

And needless to say, only your RGI can change the pump

scudo2

scudo2 wrote: »

what cap did you remove,( on motor ? )
You said it worked ok then. Was it the pump you were talking about ? Because I've come across a few pumps that the propeller came loose on or had a weak capactor giving the same results and symptons, worked better when plug was loosened.
I would try replacing pump first. Please let us know the outcome as we love happy replys.
Cheers and good luck.

That would usually lead to over heating in a low water content boiler I find.

To fit a component to a gas boiler with a contaminated system is pointless as the problem is the contamination and the defective component is the symptom, if a pump was required the system would need to be flushed and ideally a magnetic filter fitted to protect any new components fitted or it will cost more in the long run.
(And the above advice is purely based on my experiences with sludge and the unfortunate cost to others)

scudo2

Dtp1979 wrote: »

And needless to say, only your RGI can change the pump

Does that rule apply if pump is external of boiler caseing.?

I know you can't legaly OPEN a gas appliance without been RGII even if its to get at internal pump.

Curry Addict

scudo2 wrote: »

what cap did you remove,( on motor ? )
You said it worked ok then. Was it the pump you were talking about ? Because I've come across a few pumps that the propeller came loose on or had a weak capactor giving the same results and symptons, worked better when plug was loosened.
I would try replacing pump first. Please let us know the outcome as we love happy replys.
Cheers and good luck.

its a grundfos pump with a cap in the center.

i get the issue with contamination it will all have to be sorted if i do have this issue!
I just want an idea of what may need to be done as ive already paid someone and its not fixed.

It's only a problem when it's a problem.

If your having problems with your gas heating you get a RGI as they have proved their competent, if you have someone who isn't a RGI and their actions lead to a further problems, warranty claims, insurance claims or they fail to identify a hazard then that can lead to whole lot of heartache.

So the simple answer is yes only insured RGI should be working on gas heating(for a quite life)

Robbie.G

scudo2 wrote: »

Does that rule apply if pump is external of boiler caseing.?

I know you can't legaly OPEN a gas appliance without been RGII even if its to get at internal pump.

It's illegal to work on a gas appliance unless your Rgi.Its ok if the pumps external but in this case the boiler is a system boiler so it a Rgi that's needed

Curry Addict

Curry Addict wrote: »

its a grundfos pump with a cap in the center.

i get the issue with contamination it will all have to be sorted if i do have this issue!
I just want an idea of what may need to be done as ive already paid someone and its not fixed.

I would expect a good RGI to prove their points and identify the reasons for any work required.

You've already identified you have a dirty system, this in its self is a problem and one of the main factors for continues heartache, large repair bills and new boilers, gas boilers require a clean system.

Get the system flushed and if you have a leak deal with it, fit a filter so that any work you do on the boiler you get the benefit of, also flushing the system can at times deal with blockage(movement)in the heat exchanger.

If you fit components to a dirty system your just starting the clock till you repeat the process or replace the boiler.

gifted

gary71 wrote: »

It's only a problem when it's a problem.

If your having problems with your gas heating you get a RGI as they have proved their competent, if you have someone who isn't a RGI and their actions lead to a further problems, warranty claims, insurance claims or they fail to identify a hazard then that can lead to whole lot of heartache.

So the simple answer is yes only insured RGI should be working on gas heating(for a quite life)

Get a few recommendations, just because they are RGI does not mean they are competent.

gifted

gifted wrote: »

Get a few recommendations, just because they are RGI does not mean they are competent.

GID and GIS says otherwise, a RGI is deemed to be competent and would be covered by insurance for any work done due to his/her proved competence.

But you are perfectly right, RGI's range from the very very good to those who shouldn't be left in charge of a match box, a decent RGI wouldn't have left the OP reliant on the pontificating of a grumpy gas fitter on the internet.