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airlock help please, no obvious Allen key

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  • 17-09-2013 5:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭


    Hi would any one have any advice on how to get rid of the airlock in this oil boiler please, we ran out of oil and just got some today. I have tried pressing the red reset button but to no avail. This happened many years ago and it took two plumbers to figure out how to sort it out. I'm hoping one of you guys know an easier way that we can do ourselves. As I said in my title there is no Allen screw in sight.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    You will need to remove the cover (screw on each corner), you will then have access to the fuel pump you need to bleed, if your a total numpty with mechanics leave well alone.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Yes I am a novice but keen to learn basics. My husband is quiet good but he didn't get a good look at what was done the last time as there is not a lot of room and there were two guys around it, however he says they didn't remove the silver cover but bled it from the line that's running along the bottom right hand side, it took hours and involved sucking and spilling oil. My understanding on this forum is that there should be an easier less messier way, so rather than calling in the same guy we would like to find a solution and if possible do a diy job.
    Thanks for your reply Billy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Check your firevalve!

    If the cover was not removed they relied on gravity and a suction pump should have been used, sucking and is not what a Professional would do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Am I right in thinking the fire valve is that "screw" on the pipe on the right handside? That's where I think they bled it from but a fair bit of oil came out and it lingered in the house for ages.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Daisy M wrote: »
    Am I right in thinking the fire valve is that "screw" on the pipe on the right handside? That's where I think they bled it from but a fair bit of oil came out and it lingered in the house for ages.

    Yes, the brass cap type device, it looks to be turned off (bad pictures), there should be approx 10mm of thread showing.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Yes it was turned off, I have turned it down as far as it will go and tried another couple of resets but no difference. I will wait until my husband gets home but please feel free to offer any other advice that he could try without causing damage. Thanks again for the replies.


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    wush06 wrote: »

    Wrong burner.

    A few more reset attempts after a while could get it, but it could still require bleeding if the fuel pump is dry. DO NOT REPEATEDLY RESET.


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    So it was the might not bit ah well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Daisy M wrote: »
    Hi would any one have any advice on how to get rid of the airlock in this oil boiler please, we ran out of oil and just got some today. I have tried pressing the red reset button but to no avail. This happened many years ago and it took two plumbers to figure out how to sort it out. I'm hoping one of you guys know an easier way that we can do ourselves. As I said in my title there is no Allen screw in sight.
    Hi,My advice here would be if you can afford to get it serviced by an oftec trained service engineer,Then do!,Your pictures suggest to me its overdue a service.The flexibale oil hose is out of date,it should be changed every 2 years!,One morning you could wake up and you room could have a full tank of kerosene in it!,this has happened to people.Also the fire valve does not look right as billy bunting has said,The firevalve should be replaced.If you get it serviced the service engineer will show you how to bleed it properly when you run out of oil again.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Okay cover off, any suggestions which screw it should be? Also do we hit the reset button while bleeding or wait till bled, then hit reset?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    In the meantime, undo the nut a little bit on the flexihose where it goes into the burner on the top left hand side, when the bubbles stop press the reset button, you may have to try a few times.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    agusta wrote: »
    Hi,My advice here would be if you can afford to get it serviced by an oftec trained service engineer,Then do!,Your pictures suggest to me its overdue a service.The flexibale oil hose is out of date,it should be changed every 2 years!,One morning you could wake up and you room could have a full tank of kerosene in it!,this has happened to people.Also the fire valve does not look right as billy bunting has said,The firevalve should be replaced.If you get it serviced the service engineer will show you how to bleed it properly when you run out of oil again.

    I just saw your reply thanks. We are pretty good at getting it serviced but I think the person doing it while good is not really up to speed on all requirements. It does need a service so I will ask around for recommendations for an oftec service engineer. Thanks for the reply.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Thete are two points to bleed that see attached pic.On the side marked there is a 4mm Allen key
    On the front there is a nut size 15mm spanner open either of those till you get oil out.Under no circumstances touch anyother screw or nut.
    Looking at your burner it's long over a service
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/n26988iq4x2wmrv/Photo%2017-09-2013%2019%2052%2056.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Thanks for the advice, it is up and running. We followed the advice in post 13 as it seemed the easiest but there was a lot of sucking involved.:D My husband had originally decided to try the one that you advised not to touch Robbie, your post came in the nick of time thank you.
    Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply.

    I am concerned about the service comments, it is due a service yes, we have used 2500litre since the last service but even after servicing it never "looks" much better, it works more efficiently for sure but always looks old. What should a well serviced boiler look like? I notice a lot of nuts/screws etc look rusty/corroded is this dangerous.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Daisy M wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice, it is up and running. We followed the advice in post 13 as it seemed the easiest but there was a lot of sucking involved.:D My husband had originally decided to try the one that you advised not to touch Robbie, your post came in the nick of time thank you.
    Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply.

    I am concerned about the service comments, it is due a service yes, we have used 2500litre since the last service but even after servicing it never "looks" much better, it works more efficiently for sure but always looks old. What should a well serviced boiler look like? I notice a lot of nuts/screws etc look rusty/corroded is this dangerous.
    Im glad you got it going.Unfortunately a boiler service will not make it look new but it will make it run like new.It should have a new flexi oil hose fitted,15 euro,new nozzle on burner,internal chamber of boiler cleaned,new gasket on boiler if required,new seals if required,flue gas analysis and adjustment with a printout.this can save you 10 percent of fuel per year.carbon monoxide testing of boiler on completion for your safety,this is just a brief overview of a service.Your boiler with a new flexi oil line and new fire valve would cost approx 100 euro or just over depending on the service engineer.ps..,all parts on the burner and boiler should be clean after a service


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    hi daisy m

    if you look at the sticky on this forum re oil boiler servicing posted by billy bunting go to post 3 by shane0007 this is what a proper oil boiler service should entail


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Daisy M wrote: »
    We followed the advice in post 13 as it seemed the easiest but there was a lot of sucking involved.:D

    I hope he washed his mouth out well, there is a good reason they also use Kerosene in Pesticides. :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    I hope he washed his mouth out well, there is a good reason they also use Kerosene in Pesticides. :(

    its cheaper than toothpaste


  • Registered Users Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    Hi Daisym
    When your getting it serviced have a tiger loop fitted and this will prevent any airlocks in the future when you run out of oil..
    Cc


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Thanks for the replies, we will not be letting it run out of oil again, it hadn't in eight years we knew it was low and weren't using it until we needed a delivery, unfortunately one of the kids pushed in the buttons on the timer and it ran for hours while we were not at home and airlocked.

    Thanks for the tips re what to expect from a proper service, and for the tiger loop mention we will be going with this, didn't realise such a thing existed, much easier and safer than sucking oil.


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