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ATF oil change

  • 15-09-2013 9:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭


    I changed the oil in the autobox recently using the drain and refill method. I thought I’d take a few photos of what to do in case anyone is thinking of doing same for the first time. I'm not a mechanic but this is what I did

    What you need:

    ts1_zps1713d5f8.jpg
    • Transmission Oil (make sure you have the correct spec for your car)
    • 1/2 inch Drive Socket (14mm)
    • Draining Tray
    • Bucket
    • Measuring Jug
    • Jerry Can
    • Plastic Funnel
    • Paper Towels

    1. Take the car for a drive to heat up the transmission oil.

    2. Locate the autobox sump plug and undo, take care not to drop the sump plug into the oil tray.

    ts2_zps471647ca.jpg

    3. Allow old oil to drain for about 20 minutes, you should get between 3L & 4L. When all of the oil has drained retighten the sump plug initially by hand to avoid cross thread.

    ts3_zpsd56b679f.jpg

    4. Carefully transfer the used oil from the oil tray to a bucket and measure exactly how much used oil came out using a measuring jug and take note.

    ts6_zps8d244169.jpg

    ts8_zps48963672.jpg

    5. Using a plastic funnel pour the new oil in (exact same amount as you took out earlier)

    ts10_zps6150c42b.jpg

    ts13_zps9390776b.jpg

    6. When finished replace dipstick and start the engine, cycle through P R N D a couple of times to ensure the oil has been pumped around the transmission and check level (oil should be hot and engine turned on)

    Don’t worry too much if the reading states you’ve overfilled immediately after the oil change, it takes a couple of hours for the new oil to settle after refilling via dipstick

    7. Store old oil before taking it to the local recycling centre

    I repeat weekly or monthly until I have red/cherry coloured oil, it normally takes 4-5 oil changes.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,947 ✭✭✭Tropheus


    Good write up and pics. Thought about doing this on my Audi allroad. However, after checking with other owners and reading the workshop manual, it's a non serviceable item. 202k miles on the clock and still going strong so I've opted to leave as is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭kuro2k


    Tropheus wrote: »
    Thought about doing this on my Audi allroad. However, after checking with other owners and reading the workshop manual, it's a non serviceable item. 202k miles on the clock and still going strong so I've opted to leave as is.

    It is possible to change the atf in the allroad, unfortunately its a slightly more complex procedure than above.

    After a lot of advice from mechanics and gearbox specialist I decided a long time ago not to change the AFT and leave well alone but I had a change of mind recently..

    I have 250k KM on the clock, I purchased the jeep about 9 years ago so I can only verify the last 150k KM as 100% genuine. It was imported privately from Japan, original history is unknown but I feel the 250k is correct.

    I've just completed the 3rd change in a 5/6 cycle process and as you can see from the photos above the quality of the oil still coming out is scary.

    The drain and refill method seems to be less harsh than a full flush, your only removing 3L-4L at a time and it allow you to sense any changes in the feel of the gearbox post fluid change. If you sense a change you can just extend the intervals from weekly to monthly or even quarterly.

    I didn't have a problem prior to the first service last May but I now feel the gear change is a lot smother and she is cruising at a lower revs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,266 ✭✭✭MercMad


    Just my 2c.........why didn't you buy a gallon of ATF instead of all the small cans, it would have been way cheaper ?

    Also some cars have a trans filter which requires dropping the sump and makes the job a lot messier. Again some cars have a drain plug on the torque converter so you can drain that too, or loosen a pipe from the trans oil cooler and also empty that.

    I guess what I am saying is do some research on you model before you get stuck in.

    Good job though !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,947 ✭✭✭Tropheus


    Yes, I realise it's possible. I looked into it and there is a filter that also needs to be removed and replaced. Not a huge job, but wasn't necessary in my case. The gear box, transfer box and differentials are non serviceable items. The only time they need to be changed or topped up is when there's a leak. I may have another think about it at 400k miles. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Tropheus wrote: »
    Yes, I realise it's possible. I looked into it and there is a filter that also needs to be removed and replaced. Not a huge job, but wasn't necessary in my case. The gear box, transfer box and differentials are non serviceable items. The only time they need to be changed or topped up is when there's a leak. I may have another think about it at 400k miles. :D
    The manuals say non-serviceable but there is always a way to check oil and refill.
    ;)
    No oil lasts forever.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭visual


    This no serviceable crap from manufacturer is total bull I'm very surprised they haven't been called out on it.

    No fluid lasts for ever but if it gets the manufacturers passed the warranty period they can claim anything.

    No oil lasts for ever, lack of good fluid will shorten the life of the components.


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