beading/small leak either side of pump

Scruff

I have a small leak on either side of the central heating pump. It appears to be coming from the connection joint to the pipe in the same place on both sides, i've highlighted one of the areas in the attached picture.
It only ever leaks when the heating is turned on and the pump is running or possibly its extremely slow when it isnt running and doesnt form drops. It also only seems to create about 10-15 small drops that fall from the pipe until the water passing through from the boiler has heated and then the leak stops.

Can i put an epoxy or something on it to stop it (at least temporarily)?
From where the leak looks to be coming from i dont know if draining the system and threading the joint with that PTFE tape would fix it?

aujopimur

The spindles on the pump valves are leaking and not repairable, (cheap valves), replace them with wheelhead type, it will need a draindown to do this.

corkgsxr

Common enough. Cant be fixed. Replace with gatevalve type. And pump looks old so id change that while your at it.

Scruff

Not what i was hoping to hear but thanks for responding.
Do ye know what type of valves are on it at the moment from the picture?
Any recommendations on a pump?

aujopimur

Grunfoss or Wilo, it'll be easy to change the pump anytime once you have good valves.

sullzz

I'd also pipe the safety valve to outside

cerastes

aujopimur wrote: »

The spindles on the pump valves are leaking and not repairable, (cheap valves), replace them with wheelhead type, it will need a draindown to do this.

corkgsxr wrote: »

Common enough. Cant be fixed. Replace with gatevalve type. And pump looks old so id change that while your at it.

Im in a similar situation, except my pump looks similar, maybe older condition.

I have a slight weep around one side in the same place, but also where the pump joins the valve, ever so slight drip, except when its hot during use (must evaporate). I think it needs seals? rubber? or some other seal material?
I was thinking of just replacing the valve bit first and then get the pump done at another date, as it hasn't failed yet and should be easier to get done after when the valve bit is done already.

Where is a good place to pick up good valve parts and seals?? in Dublin.

sullzz

Any plumbing providers heat merchants , dublin providers (dpl) , chadwicks or smallmans should have them , ask for the gate valve type , the come with washers , if you want rubber ones you will have to ask for them but the fibre ones work fine one thing to note is that the gate valve type are slightly longer than the other type which are usually fitted so cutting the pipe will have to be done , shouldn't be a big deal tho as your system will be drained

cerastes

sullzz wrote: »

Any plumbing providers heat merchants , dublin providers (dpl) , chadwicks or smallmans should have them , ask for the gate valve type , the come with washers , if you want rubber ones you will have to ask for them but the fibre ones work fine one thing to note is that the gate valve type are slightly longer than the other type which are usually fitted so cutting the pipe will have to be done , shouldn't be a big deal tho as your system will be drained

Thats what I was thinking, fibre, wasnt sure which would be more suitable.
Would rubber ones be better under some circumstances? or even resist heat, it gets pretty hot at that point when the heating is on, I thought rubber might deteriorate causing some of the weep/drip.
Is this reasonably doable as a diy job??

sullzz

It doesn't really matter which ones you use , I prefer rubber ones myself but both withstand the heat fine , its a pretty straightforward job to do once the heating is drained , if the pump is located above the boiler be sure to cover the boiler well with towels , and close the valves on the pump when removing the pump , then drain any water left in the pipework into a basin through the pump valves , just make sure all upstairs rads are drained fully so your not getting spurts of water when working on the pipework , open the rad valves fully and open the vents when draining , this will let all the water drain .

cerastes

sullzz wrote: »

It doesn't really matter which ones you use , I prefer rubber ones myself but both withstand the heat fine , its a pretty straightforward job to do once the heating is drained , if the pump is located above the boiler be sure to cover the boiler well with towels , and close the valves on the pump when removing the pump , then drain any water left in the pipework into a basin through the pump valves , just make sure all upstairs rads are drained fully so your not getting spurts of water when working on the pipework , open the rad valves fully and open the vents when draining , this will let all the water drain .

ok, appreciate that, something that was meant to get done over the summer but got sidelined for one reason and another, saw the thread and it was in the back of my mind.er
Either way, I needs to beget it sorted before the weather gets colder.

cerastes

I am just wondering now, I had a look at the pump, I cant really see the small drip that was there before, I dont know whether to proceed or not, maybe its cleared itself up or maybe it will return at a more inconvenient and colder time.

The heating doesnt seem to get up to the pressure it did before though, so I thought this was because of the slight tiny leak of water at the pump.
but I had a look in the attic and the small tank that feeds the heating which already had its supply turned off still has the same amount of water in it, so it doesnt look like water is being leaked? the thing is, the small tank itself has a lid and is insulated with a wrap around jacket top and side. inside the tank is soaked everywhere, I am wondering if during use the water is being pushed back up there? and maybe thats why I cant get better pressure in the system?? I know there is a non return valve somewhere probably up to this tank, could this be an issue or do they go bad? I dont think one was ever replaced.