doing engine oil change for first time mf165

bozd

hi, just wondering which is the best oil and how much is needed. have just had hydraulic radiator welded and thought its been along time since had the engine oil done - any tips? thanks

towzer2010

bozd wrote: »

hi, just wondering which is the best oil and how much is needed. have just had hydraulic radiator welded and thought its been along time since had the engine oil done - any tips? thanks

I use 10w40 or 15w40, either is fine. Seeing as it hasn't been changed in a while the main thing is to change it. Make sure to change the filter as well.

Mine took between 5 or 6 litres the last change but basically park on level ground and after you have most of the 5 litre drum poured in check the dipstick to see the level and keep topping up bit by bit.

bozd

towzer2010 wrote: »

I use 10w40 or 15w40, either is fine. Seeing as it hasn't been changed in a while the main thing is to change it. Make sure to change the filter as well.

Mine took between 5 or 6 litres the last change but basically park on level ground and after you have most of the 5 litre drum poured in check the dipstick to see the level and keep topping up bit by bit.

Thanks thought it would be alot more oil. Was looking at online 25 litre cans at agriline for cheap per litre not that oil goes off but would be over doing it.so 2gallons would be plenty.

9935452

bozd wrote: »

Thanks thought it would be alot more oil. Was looking at online 25 litre cans at agriline for cheap per litre not that oil goes off but would be over doing it.so 2gallons would be plenty.

I have a 165 with a 203 engine and I think it's around 2gallons. I was was half amazed it took soo much. A 20 or25 litre container of engine oil should cost around 50 euros. The extra few litres are handy for the next change and top ups. 15 w 40 is what you should use. 10w40 is too good. It's also too thin. If the tractor burns oil , it will burn more with that oil.
Air filter wise does it have an element filter or oil bath. If its an oil bath use engine oil with that up to the mark on the bowl

bozd

Did the oil change. Apart from getting 4" filter instead of 6" so another trip - all was easy don't know why didn't do it sooner. Got 20 litre oil €60 and thought it would last but it has taken days of slow fill into hydraulics of close to 5 litres .cannot believe so much is in there started 2 days ago using funnel full to brim 300ml about and that takes nearly hour to go in. Must be doing something wrong but this how did it last 12 years. As for oil bath yes use the same oil. It hadn't been cleaned in years and full of dust and straw - got blow torch and burnt it off.doesn't seem to have any ill effect.thanks for interest.

Rovi

bozd wrote: »

...it has taken days of slow fill into hydraulics of close to 5 litres .cannot believe so much is in there started 2 days ago using funnel full to brim 300ml about and that takes nearly hour to go in. Must be doing something wrong but this how did it last 12 years.

Something very odd there.
How are you putting the oil in???

There should be a big filler hole somewhere that you just pour the oil in. I haven't looked at a 165 for many years, but I THINK the filler is on top of the transmission just to the left of the gearsticks.

reilig

Rovi wrote: »

I THINK the filler is on top of the transmission just to the left of the gearsticks.

That's exactly where it is. You should be able to pour a couple of gallons there in a few minutes.

Rovi

Here we go:

Filler location on 165:


Here's a better angle (of a 135, but the location appears to be identical).
The filler hole has the bung with the hex head to the left of the big gearstick.:

Cavanjack

Rovi wrote: »

Here we go:

Filler location on 165:


Here's a better angle (of a 135, but the location appears to be identical).
The filler hole has the bung with the hex head to the left of the big gearstick.:

is it not the engine oil the OP is changing?

Rovi

Cavanjack wrote: »

is it not the engine oil the OP is changing?

Well, yeah, the thread title is about doing the engine oil, but they're talking about filling the hydraulics here:

bozd wrote: »

...it has taken days of slow fill into hydraulics of close to 5 litres.

Rovi

^
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Hmmm...

You have me wondering now!

The engine oil filler on the 135 and 168 (the two models of the 1## series I'm familiar with, I'm assuming the 165 is the same) were famous for accumulating debris which made filling/topping-up ridiculously slow.
You needed to fish out the rubbish before you could properly pour oil in at a decent rate.

The OP needs to clarify if they're talking about engine or transmission ('hydraulic') oil here.

Suckler

Rovi wrote: »

^
|
|

Hmmm...

You have me wondering now!

The engine oil filler on the 135 and 168 (the two models of the 1## series I'm familiar with, I'm assuming the 165 is the same) were famous for accumulating debris which made filling/topping-up ridiculously slow.
You needed to fish out the rubbish before you could properly pour oil in at a decent rate.

The OP needs to clarify if they're talking about engine or transmission ('hydraulic') oil here.

Or are they filling it via the hydraulic oil dipstick hole on the side very slowly!

bozd

Suckler wrote: »

Or are they filling it via the hydraulic oil dipstick hole on the side very slowly!

yes it feels that way alright- just cannot believe the capacity to pouring in more oil - see where I am pouring it in doesnt correspond with (much cleaner mf )pics but but is under seat where I have my loader lock as I call it - but you have guessed by now my knowledge is based on monkey see monkey do. my mechanic showed how to fill it from here but it sure would make sense putting any volume of oil in the blank nut that is beside gear sticks - groan.

now Im concerned with having over -filled the hydraulics - must have put up to 8 litres in it - never did put that much in before but then the radiator had never burst before.

so the questions are - as the hydraulic dipstick has always said it was full - it works alot quicker and is more responsive like this but how much is too full . Do seals burst out before I know what is too much oil?

how do I take out the oil - at the blank nut?
and finally - are the hydraulics and transmission filled together because I am running out of oil:D.
funl2.jpg

Really appreciate the advice lads

thanks

9935452

bozd wrote: »

yes it feels that way alright- just cannot believe the capacity to pouring in more oil - see where I am pouring it in doesnt correspond with (much cleaner mf )pics but but is under seat where I have my loader lock as I call it - but you have guessed by now my knowledge is based on monkey see monkey do. my mechanic showed how to fill it from here but it sure would make sense putting any volume of oil in the blank nut that is beside gear sticks - groan.

now Im concerned with having over -filled the hydraulics - must have put up to 8 litres in it - never did put that much in before but then the radiator had never burst before.

so the questions are - as the hydraulic dipstick has always said it was full - it works alot quicker and is more responsive like this but how much is too full . Do seals burst out before I know what is too much oil?

how do I take out the oil - at the blank nut?
and finally - are the hydraulics and transmission filled together because I am running out of oil:D.
funl2.jpg

Really appreciate the advice lads

thanks

If I was putting in oil I'd put it in the filler bedside the gear stick . It has to be faster.
What oil are you using for the backend, not engine oil. Gear oil 85w90 or universal oil 10w40.
Keep checking the dipstick for your levels. Though some lads like them a small bit above if tipping big trailers.
The hydraulics and back end are the same for oil

reilig

9935452 wrote: »

If I was putting in oil I'd put it in the filler bedside the gear stick . It has to be faster.
What oil are you using for the backend, not engine oil. Gear oil 85w90 or universal oil 10w40.
Keep checking the dipstick for your levels. Though some lads like them a small bit above if tipping big trailers.
The hydraulics and back end are the same for oil

Mechanic always advised us to use engine oil in the back end of the 35/65/165/168's that we owned over the years as they work better on a thicker oil. Never had a problem with it!!

bozd

9935452 wrote: »

If I was putting in oil I'd put it in the filler bedside the gear stick . It has to be faster.
What oil are you using for the backend, not engine oil. Gear oil 85w90 or universal oil 10w40.
Keep checking the dipstick for your levels. Though some lads like them a small bit above if tipping big trailers.
The hydraulics and back end are the same for oil

using Super tractor universal - in engine and backend for last 10 years or more because - wait for it .... someone told me to. was told hydraulic not suited to older machines ... anyway taking excess oil out to avoid any problems. thanks for the advice - this is one big learning curb

fiat10090dt

super universal oil is rite oil for mf of that age ,There is a H on top of dip stick if have spool vavles u fill up to it .Oer fill antin a harm also breath on top cover it wud blow out there if over fill

bozd

reilig wrote: »

Mechanic always advised us to use engine oil in the back end of the 35/65/165/168's that we owned over the years as they work better on a thicker oil. Never had a problem with it!!

Phew wasnt imagining it - took excess oil out and machine runs fine. thanks for input

Mickey H

bozd wrote: »

Phew wasnt imagining it - took excess oil out and machine runs fine. thanks for input

OP, the 203 should take about 1.5 gallons in the engine. Have a look at the link below for more info:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/7/4/746-massey-ferguson-165.html

bozd

Mickey H wrote: »

OP, the 203 should take about 1.5 gallons in the engine. Have a look at the link below for more info:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/7/4/746-massey-ferguson-165.html

thanks for that, have 165 parts manual from online shop - handy only to a point. must try and source Haynes one - if it exists