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Help motor electronics

  • 31-08-2013 9:48pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35


    Okay I was looking for a 12v connection. So I see a thick wire going into a fuse box near the battery, so I decided to connect to that, well there was two connections on the one nut and I disconnected it and heard clicking while the nut was being disconnected. So now the radio won't work the clock won't work, the noise while key is in ignition and door open won't work and the light for the door open will not work or the central locking won't work. So I took the car for a spin and down the road they just all worked together so I thought maybe it is fixed. Went into shops came out all not working again. And I was half way home when they all worked again. That was a further spin than when they came on the first time.

    So does any body know what is wrong with the car?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭visual


    This sounds too obviouse so please don't take offence.

    When you undone the nut with the two connectors did you re-tighten and made sure there was a good electrical connection.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    visual wrote: »
    This sounds too obviouse so please don't take offence.

    When you undone the nut with the two connectors did you re-tighten and made sure there was a good electrical connection.

    Yes it is tightened up again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    What car is it?


    Is it all put back to normal, or is the stuff you were wiring in still hooked up?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    What car is it?


    Is it all put back to normal, or is the stuff you were wiring in still hooked up?

    1998 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5 coupe. All I have connected is a 12 volt off battery and a ground to a ground cable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    What have you hooked up? Any pictures of the work would be good too. Sounds like a loose connection tbh.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    I was connecting a remote central locking device.

    I first connected to the red wire in the middle on the right hand side of pic to the fuse box. I measured first and there was 12 volts but now when I measure I do not get any voltage. I have now connected straight to the positive connection off the battery. The wire I connected is the green and yellow wire.

    20130901_104052.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,696 ✭✭✭trad


    Sounds like your new connection blew the fuse.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,219 ✭✭✭✭biko


    rossy wrote: »
    The wire I connected is the green and yellow wire.edit?usp=sharing

    Your image link doesn't work, use postimage.org or similar.
    Green/yellow is earth.


    ok image works now


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    biko wrote: »
    Your image link doesn't work, use postimage.org or similar.
    Green/yellow is earth.

    I know green and yellow is earth. It's the only stranded cable I had.

    edit: At the red cable there is no voltage when car is off but when I start car there is only 2volts, yesturday I am 100% certain there was 12volts there when car was off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Regardless of anything else, having an unfused cable running straight from the battery and presumably through the bulkhead isn't wise.

    I'd disconnect everything you've done, tighten everything up and see if the problem is gone.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Regardless of anything else, having an unfused cable running straight from the battery and presumably through the bulkhead isn't wise.

    I'd disconnect everything you've done, tighten everything up and see if the problem is gone.

    I don't know what the bulk head is. But The wire coming from battery to power the remote central locking unit is fused. I have the remote central locking working now, but only now that I have a new wire straight from battery to power that fuse box(red wire connection). I traced that wire(red wire) to altenator and another from battery to alternator. So it is working now with new cable in. And I still don't know why it won't work with out the new cable I put in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    The bulkhead is the big bit of metal behind the engine that seperates the engine compartment from the passenger compartment. Where is the fuse?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    The fuse is near the central locking unit. About 8 inches away from the unit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭dieselbug


    The red wire at the fusebox looks like an add on, not original and you need to place your fuse as near to the + source as possible to protect as much of the circuit as possible.

    If the red wire dropped from 12v to 2v something consumed the other 10v.

    Your remote wiring is possibly interfering with a relay somewhere triggering something.

    Take the 12v feed from the feed side of the fusebox and not just any wire that is showing 12v.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    rossy wrote: »
    The fuse is near the central locking unit. About 8 inches away from the unit.

    Where is the central locking unit?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 35 rossy


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Where is the central locking unit?

    Under the steering wheel and above the pedals.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,544 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Ok, the fuse needs to be in the engine bay as close to the battery as possible. if the cable shorts (which is very possible) between the battery and your fuse in the dash, there's no protection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Seanieke


    Yee Haa!!
    :eek:


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