Fencing - Concrete Posts and wire

Cran

Hi I have to split a field with another farmer and been looking at options. Orginally was think heavy creosote posts with sheep wire and few strands of barb. But concrete posts with 7 strands of bull wire through the stakes with sheep wire ring stapled to it have just come into my head.

Anyone know the cost of this fencing, and how it would differ from standard farm fencing both practically and for cost.

Conmaicne Mara

Would you consider the New Zealand type post and batten fencing? They use 8 strands of wire, stock proof for sheep, goats, cattle. It looks like a good job to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71YHr-v9vSE

Cran

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

Would you consider the New Zealand type post and batten fencing? They use 8 strands of wire, stock proof for sheep, goats, cattle. It looks like a good job to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71YHr-v9vSE

Looks good I was thinking more of the permanency of the concrete posts

crackcrack30

Wont cattle scratch and rub off concrete posts......I seen them dislodge a few around a new site/house....:eek:

hoseman

What kind of ground have you?
Is it level?
Will you be putting in a hedge?
Is it a straight run?

Cran

hoseman wrote: »

What kind of ground have you?
Is it level?
Will you be putting in a hedge?
Is it a straight run?

Flat straight run, dry enough but wouldn't be putting in a hedge due to drains being there

Cran

crackcrack30 wrote: »

Wont cattle scratch and rub off concrete posts......I seen them dislodge a few around a new site/house....:eek:

Would they? Never thought of that, anything to stop them doing any different to wood ones? Or just barb wire?

adne

Cran wrote: »

Would they? Never thought of that, anything to stop them doing any different to wood ones? Or just barb wire?

Electric!

paddysdream

Concrete posts are inclined to be pushed over a little if you let cattle rub against them.Only solution is to use a strand of electric on the side the cattle are on plus barbed on top.

Just concrete the strainers not the stakes.If you concrete all the stakes then a slight push from a bullock or a tip with say the back of a plough when turning can very easily crack or break the post .This will then entail digging up the concrete to replace the post.When they are just in the clay they have lots more give and can be handily pushed back into line.

Cost wise think about 12 euro or so per stake.Years since I bought any as usually get client to supply them as everyone has their own preference as to who makes the best,straightest post!.

Dont forget they have a plumb and tapered side.Wire goes on the plumb (rough )side usually with the smooth tapered side facing towards whoever paid for them!

Also rem. that there are left and right hand props with a lot of makers so order the correct ones
Level height is important on both the props stakes and props to get the plain wire to run level through them.Looks awful otherwise.

Use tying wire to tie the sheepwire or barbed to the posts thru. the holes.

Looked at that NZ. video (thanks) and he really stressed the importance of good strainers and of having a tight fence.Think he said something like it should still be tight in 30 years.Think thats what I have said on here every time fencing is mentioned ie a good well strained tight fence ,if done properly should not loosen for a long long time. Plus a tight fence is the major way to ensure its stockproof.

As regards erecting concrete posts, an engine driven post hole borer is a godsend if the ground is hard.It removes 99% of the digging.Bugger to use though if there are large stones or esp. roots.Real wrist breaker.

Personally hate them as they are a bi**h to lift in and out of the hole if hole depth aint bang on.Thats just the 6 foot ones,the 8 foot ones are a plain pig to do (mini digger or loader and strap the handy way out).