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Harrowing

  • 21-08-2013 9:10am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,534 ✭✭✭


    Really need advice about chain harrows. I'm looking at buying one but would like to know if it's 100% right for the job before I do. I'm working off a tight budget but I know a harrow would be worth getting as I'd have more use for it over the next while. What I'm looking at doing at the moment is removing a tight cover of moss from the soil bed. I've already killed most of the moss using iron sulphate so now need to remove it from the ground. There is already grass in this field and I am attempting to minimise the damage I do to what's already there. Would a chain harrow reach low enough considering the grass is 4-6 inches high? I only have a few hundred to spend on this, so a chain harrow fits the bill in terms of price, but would it pick up the moss?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 498 ✭✭agriman27


    My neighbour bought a beaconsfield ten foot chain harrow in a frame think its 10ft. He is very impressed with it, he says its very aggressive and sometimes he would need to spread grass seed because it creates so much loose soil in poached ground. I'd say it cost at least a grand though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,083 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    is the land in one block? could you get away with a trailed harrow as opposed to a mounted one?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,534 ✭✭✭SomethingElse


    is the land in one block? could you get away with a trailed harrow as opposed to a mounted one?

    It's all one block. A trailed harrow would be fine, my main issue would be would it catch the moss or would the grass stop it from getting down as far as it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    It's all one block. A trailed harrow would be fine, my main issue would be would it catch the moss or would the grass stop it from getting down as far as it?

    Graze it first?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    It's all one block. A trailed harrow would be fine, my main issue would be would it catch the moss or would the grass stop it from getting down as far as it?

    Graze it first as Muckit said and then use the harrow. I got an 8' trailed Hackett from Johnstons in Longford in spring time and it works well at rooting out dead moss. It might need a few runs to do it completely though so your grass would be destroyed if you hadn't grazed it first.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,534 ✭✭✭SomethingElse


    towzer2010 wrote: »
    Graze it first as Muckit said and then use the harrow. I got an 8' trailed Hackett from Johnstons in Longford in spring time and it works well at rooting out dead moss. It might need a few runs to do it completely though so your grass would be destroyed if you hadn't grazed it first.

    I would be reluctant to graze as it's got a fair bit of iron sulphate on it at the moment. When you say it will destroy the grass, do you mean it will tear the leaves, or will it rip the grass roots and all out of the field leaving it bare??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭jersey101


    I would be reluctant to graze as it's got a fair bit of iron sulphate on it at the moment. When you say it will destroy the grass, do you mean it will tear the leaves, or will it rip the grass roots and all out of the field leaving it bare??

    ye it'll rip the roots out of the ground, ye should have grazed it first and then sprayed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,534 ✭✭✭SomethingElse


    jersey101 wrote: »
    ye it'll rip the roots out of the ground, ye should have grazed it first and then sprayed

    I did graze it about a month back, but I got delayed between then and getting a chance to put out the iron sulphate. What length max. would the grass want to be do you think?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 718 ✭✭✭F.D


    Hire in a contractor with a tine harrow, i would imagine it will get down to the moss and not be as hard on the grass seen as the tines are longer and more flexible


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭jersey101


    I did graze it about a month back, but I got delayed between then and getting a chance to put out the iron sulphate. What length max. would the grass want to be do you think?

    as short as possible, thats what i would have it if i was you


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 533 ✭✭✭towzer2010


    I did graze it about a month back, but I got delayed between then and getting a chance to put out the iron sulphate. What length max. would the grass want to be do you think?

    It would want to be short or else the harrow wont fully get down to rip out the moss because the layer of grass will get in the way and block up the tines. Plus it will waste what ever grass you have.

    Here is a pic of the same type of chainharrow as I have. You can see the tines will collect trash and the more there is the less effective it becomes but it is a good tool if used right.

    268356.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 125 ✭✭Lastin


    If you have moss lime and reseed it will be cheaper in the long run


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    Lastin wrote: »
    If you have moss lime and reseed it will be cheaper in the long run

    I would think simular.
    Soil ph is your problem if you have moss.
    Lime it now and see what happens before you spend money on kit.

    chain harrows tend to be used a bit recreationally IMO and ofter sit in the nettles once you get over the initial buyers high. They do have a place but will chain harrowing get to the root of your problem?


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