Mech Mod Muppetry?

Lucutus

Hi all,

just did a quick three wrap of .20 kanthal in an igo-L on top of the sigelei #19 in 18350 mode, (AW batt).

pretty sure I'm getting a tiny shock every second time I fire it, off the side of the tube when the button is depressed.

Anyone ever have this before? Possible causes?

Thanks,

Luc

Ionised

Sure the coil isn't shorting out there? Only way I can think you would be getting a shock.

Lucutus

At the start I had the legs wraped around the post fully, then tightened.

So I've scaled back on that, shouldn't be shorting at all. The coil is glowing fine.

Just cleaning the button assembly out now, was some black 'dust' all around it.

reassembling...

Lucutus

Naw, still the same, somethings not right.

I'll go back to the ego for now and try it again later.

Thanks Ionised!

o>

Ionised

I had a Sigelei 19 and ended up changing the spring out. That switch is most suspect and may well be the problem. Try taking it to bits and seeing if anything is amiss.

rickyjb

I've had great "fun" with my sigelei 19b lately. It can give you a shock if an exposed part of the battery touches the side tube or the outer part of the switch.

Your best bet is to get a brass switch/firing pin from celtic vapes (sold out at the moment though) or you could mod it by blowtorching out the magnet and using a 2c coin wrapped in insulating tape. See my post here: http://ukvapers.org/Thread-Sigelei-19b?page=7

It's surprisingly easy to do once you get the magnet out, that bit's not so easy. It greatly reduces the internal resistance also so it's well worth doing. Let us know how you get on.

Alternatively you could sell it and buy the brass one, much less hassle:)

Edit - it's not your atomiser btw, it's definitely the sigelei.

pkjnr

hey luc...i have a permenent fix for tje switch now..no misfires and .3 voltage loss..ill get the pics up in the morning..it will solve this problem for you..

hope all is well..p.

pkjnr

so what i did is..get a lenght of satellite cable..strip both pieces of copper out...make a spring with the solid core and with the outer core:make a similar shape

you make the two into one piece and fit it where the spring usually goes..when it all goes together you will have a button with very soft throw and no issues with misfires or arcing!

Lucutus

Never got the chance to get back to it last night, pretty sure you're right ricky, it's not the coil or atty.

pk, I did get another spring for it to help the throw a bit in the end, I'll try that co-ax thing though, looks good.

pkjnr

@lucs

use maybe 4 coils for the spring shape,also;i clean my threds with a brillo and water most weeks-dirt clogs up in the tele sections and reduces the flow of power..its working fine for me since i done these things

i was gonna get a brass version,but speaking to someone else that has one,;they said it leaves a smell on your hand from the brass oxidising after a while!!

rickyjb

pkjnr wrote: »

so what i did is..get a lenght of satellite cable..strip both pieces of copper out...make a spring with the solid core and with the outer core:make a similar shape

you make the two into one piece and fit it where the spring usually goes..when it all goes together you will have a button with very soft throw and no issues with misfires or arcing!

The spring in the switch doesn't have any conductive purpose so I don't think this has anything to do with the arcing issue. It hits the delrin at the top so shouldn't matter what it's made of or what's wrapped around it.

I think all the arcing/shorting issues are due to the magnet which is just a stupid idea in this device. Remove that and find a way to make good contact between the firing pin and battery and you'll solve all your issues.

Exposed metal part on the battery could also cause shorting, is your battery casing fully intact Lucutus?

pkjnr

@ricky
i removed magnets in my own and the one lucs had-so its not the magnets.

i had that arc/shock problem after i removed the magnets.
the spring does help with conductivity as when the brass pin hits the bottom of the battery it needs to be in contact with the button assembly..this has been discussed to death on ecf...the copper strands in the bottom assemply/and havin spotless clean threads seals the deal..how do i know?

cause ive tried everything else..
i finally have a 19 that works perfect every time.

rickyjb

pkjnr wrote: »

@ricky
i removed magnets in my own and the one lucs had-so its not the magnets.

i had that arc/shock problem after i removed the magnets.
the spring does help with conductivity as when the brass pin hits the bottom of the battery it needs to be in contact with the button assembly..this has been discussed to death on ecf...the copper strands in the bottom assemply/and havin spotless clean threads seals the deal..how do i know?

cause ive tried everything else..
i finally have a 19 that works perfect every time.

I guess I stand corrected so:)

Mine is not working that well at the moment, thought I had it sussed but getting the occasional misfire again. Maybe the copper coating is wearing off my coin?:pac:

Must give it a good clean and try to find some copper strands, thanks.

One question though, when you say "make a spring" how exactly did you manage that?

pkjnr

i just wrapped the inner wire around a pen..about 4 wraps works for me,the the copper strands can be worked around the spring to make it one piece to insert into the bottom assembly..

hope it helps!:D

rickyjb

I just bought a brass bottom button from celtic vapes. No magnet, and lighter spring apparently. Nearly 10 sterling delivered so a bit steep but if it just *works* money well spent. Wish they'd just made them like this in the first place!

I'll let ye know if it's worth it.