High power front light - flashing ?

Alek

I am thinking about a moderately strong front light for some dusk/dawn cycling in the countryside. The light I'm looking at is rated 400lm at full power and 250lm in flashing mode. I commute 5 days a week and will be using the flash in autumn/winter months.

Do you have experience with such a strong flash? I'm worried about headache/dizzyness after looking at the stroboscoped road for half an hour...

(and I do not have light-induced epilepsy as far as I know, just wondering...)

Beasty

If you're going to be cycling county roads you need it steady, not flashing - you want to be properly illuminating the road ahead.

Lumen

Think about the poor sods coming in the other direction.

Somewhat depends on beam pattern, but 250lm is way too strong for a flasher.

Alek

Sure. But I'm commuting in the city 5 days/week and cycling country roads 1 day/week max. And I do not want to buy a separate light for the city should I find strong flashing distracting.

Wishbone Ash

Beasty wrote: »

If you're going to be cycling county roads you need it steady, not flashing - you want to be properly illuminating the road ahead.

Ideally yes, but if going out for several hours during darkness, the flashing mode helps prolong battery life. I use a Lezyne 450 and can get 4 or 5 hours out of it in flashing mode. (I do realise I should just carry another charged battery instead).

I also have a Lezyne 150 which is a great light little light for those summer evenings where one may get caught out by falling darkness.

feck sake lads

why not go the dynamo route,you can buy a good front wheel with shimano dynamo and Bush n Muller headlight from bike discount for a great price.
check out Phil White for info on dynamo lighting.

Alek

FSL - they do not seem to have too great light output at 70lm. Besides, a dynamo means new wheel (or rebuilding) and my current one is quite sound :-) It would work out bit too expensive together.

Realistically, how many lumens do I need to spot a pothole at reasonable distance on a pitch black road?

The tax man

Slightly off topic but I've seen a few mountain bikers coming down from the Dublin mountains in the evenings and they have lights that have a steady on beam but also has a strobe flash going at the same time. Anyone have any idea what make\model light it might be?

From a drivers viewpoint they certain stand out and are noticeable from some distance away.

endacl

alkos wrote: »

FSL - they do not seem to have too great light output at 70lm. Besides, a dynamo means new wheel (or rebuilding) and my current one is quite sound :-) It would work out bit too expensive together.

Realistically, how many lumens do I need to spot a pothole at reasonable distance on a pitch black road?

Its not so much 'how much light', as what you do with it. Have you considered a head torch?

feck sake lads

my set up for night rides on pitch black country roads BnM lumotec not band m best light ut not bad either i will upgrade to cyo 40 later on and i also use cateye hl-el500 no bother seening or been seen.
i love the dynamo as i know i dont have to worry about battery life believe me its worth thinking about especally if your doing a lot of night cycling.
the head torch is a great idea also.

SomeFool

I have a set of these on the front, commute at least 3 nights per week on unlit country roads and find them great, twin lights with a steady or flashing option on each unit, have used them on the MTB by night as well. I have 2 rear lights, an exposure and a smart.

Alek

endacl wrote: »

Its not so much 'how much light', as what you do with it. Have you considered a head torch?

I can mount Lezyne on the helmet. But what else can one really do with a light than point it at the road?

believe me its worth thinking about especally if your doing a lot of night cycling.
the head torch is a great idea also.

In my case it would be rather occasional, most likely once a week in the winter time, for 1-2h max in the dark. So battery life is not an issue.

Think about the poor sods coming in the other direction.

Hmm. True.

Alek

Somewhat depends on beam pattern, but 250lm is way too strong for a flasher.

Oops, double-checked the specs and it seems to have 150lm in flashing mode. Does it sound better, having poor sods in mind ? :-)

Spook_ie

SomeFool wrote: »

I have a set of these on the front, commute at least 3 nights per week on unlit country roads and find them great, twin lights with a steady or flashing option on each unit, have used them on the MTB by night as well. I have 2 rear lights, an exposure and a smart.

Would question the wisdom of two handlebar lights, unless you have one flashing, would imagine quite possible to mistake for a cars distant headlights rather than a much closer cyclist

magicbastarder

as far as i can remember, you need a licence to use a flashing light on the road. this may only apply to motorised vehicles, possibly.

Jawgap

The tax man wrote: »

Slightly off topic but I've seen a few mountain bikers coming down from the Dublin mountains in the evenings and they have lights that have a steady on beam but also has a strobe flash going at the same time. Anyone have any idea what make\model light it might be?

From a drivers viewpoint they certain stand out and are noticeable from some distance away.

Could be an Exposure light - they kind of pulse, rather than strobe or flash.

I've a Diablo I use - on the dark country roads it's on steady and a quick press of the button puts it into pulse mode once I'm inside the M50.

thekooman

Spook_ie wrote: »

Would question the wisdom of two handlebar lights, unless you have one flashing, would imagine quite possible to mistake for a cars distant headlights rather than a much closer cyclist

my buddy has those Electron ones and they are nearly better than the headlights of a car... got them at 145 in ballinrobe from what i remember.

Lumen

magicbastarder wrote: »

as far as i can remember, you need a licence to use a flashing light on the road. this may only apply to motorised vehicles, possibly.

Flashing bicycle lights are now legal. There's nothing much wrong with low-power ones (e.g. Smart 1/2 Watt) - same visibility for less battery spend.

The Moon Shield is an interesting case. A flashing rear light with 60 lumen output ought to be blinding, but the spread is so wide that it's just below the threshold of annoying/dangerous (in my opinion).

...and then there's the Hope District.

But those are rear lights. There aren't many high power bike-specific flashing front lights. There are bike-mountable torches or high power front lights that have a flashing (or even strobe) mode, but if you have lots of power why would you put it on flash rather than usefully illuminating the road?

I bought a Lezyne micro drive last year and like almost all the battery powered lights I've bought, regardless of battery technology, it stopped working within 6 months.

The only bike light I've owned that has survived longer than one season is the Moon Shield.

I think cheap AAA-powered flashers are the business for urban use.

Something like this:

Smart 7 Lux Super Slim Front Light €10.49
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/smart-7-lux-super-slim-front-light/rp-prod70368

beauf

I've two on the front, one steady and one flashing. Hit a dark road and I out them both to steady to see the road. In town I turn one off and leave one on flashing. Also means you have a backup if the battery goes, or goes low.

From driving I think those super strong lights are not that suitable in traffic. I been blinded not only by an oncoming cyclists but also by one coming up from behind. The light in the mirror being so strong its like a camera flash in your face, you go blind then see spots for about 5 mins afterwards. Someone cycles though the Phoenix park abut 7pm with these lights which are brighter than any car headlight. Haven't seen them this year yet.

Chips Lovell

Lumen wrote: »

Think about the poor sods coming in the other direction.

Somewhat depends on beam pattern, but 250lm is way too strong for a flasher.

This. A flashing front light of any power is not nice for someone coming in the other direction.

cdaly_

alkos wrote: »

FSL - they do not seem to have too great light output at 70lm. Besides, a dynamo means new wheel (or rebuilding) and my current one is quite sound :-) It would work out bit too expensive together.

Realistically, how many lumens do I need to spot a pothole at reasonable distance on a pitch black road?

I use a Fenix TK11 for night riding. On a pitch black country road, its low 60 lumen setting is adequate. The high 225 lumen setting is good for descending or for lighting up a black road in the face of oncoming traffic where glare washes out the 60 lumen output.

CheGuedara

Def agree with Lumen and Vlad - more, cheaper lights for urban cycling where their function is probably less about allowing a rider to see the road ahead and more about drawing the attention/awareness of motorists and run the front light as a beam rather than flashing. In addition to a flashing front light being unpleasant for oncoming traffic, I don't think a flashing light assists their ability to judge your distance or speed as they approach you (i.e. that a solid light is easier tracked).

FWIW I do quite a bit of low/no light cycling with the club during the winter months and have settled on the Lezyne Superdrive front light and Knog Blinder Road rear as a one-size-fits-all pair for open road cycling and urban riding. Not a particularly cheap pair, but high quality and reliable (so far).

The Superdrive is at its most comfortable in a group at its lower setting (175lm) but solo or on a descent it's high settings (350lm or 500lm) illuminates a substantial distance for confident riding even including high speed descending. The very highest setting gets just 1.5hrs out of the stock batteries but aftermarket high mAh ones can get it to over 2hrs for a small extra cost. The pulse/flash mode is 350lm, so for the ride home through town is very hard to miss but I would keep it pointed low (as when riding with continuous beam) as it must be dazzling for anyone oncoming. It's not a strobe though so while it might cause people to see spots if positioned badly it shouldn't flush out those with latent epilepsy.

The Knog is a weapon and probably the last rear light I'll buy (unless it breaks when it will be replaced by the same or whatever supercedes it). All LEDs on it lives up to its name in a big way and I suspect is visible from low earth orbit. So that's visibility for night solo riding on open roads sorted. When in a bunch that would be untenable so there's a 'peloton' mode where it knocks it down to 2 LEDs so that riders behind aren't just riding into a red haze (and seeing the red mist!). And for urban riding home to/from the club meet (or commuting or whatever) there's also a strobe mode which is difficult to ignore.

Surveyor11

250 lumen flashing up front is way too much, my Lenzyne micro drive has 100 Lumen on strobe, more than adequate. For a dark country road, you're going to need a constant beam with decent beam spread - at least 200 lumen I would suggest (from my own experience).

What I use is as follows, I find it works well for my commute which is part country roads and part urban:

Front: LED Lenser B7 upfront - 200 Lumen, good beam spread and focusable and works fine for me - darkest part of my commute is from Lucan to Coolmine on country roads. Supplemented by a Lezyne Micro Drive - 100 lumen on strobe is very visible for urban use. The 150 Lumen constant does a good job as a back up if the LED lenser fails.

Rear - Lezyne Micro Drive (70 Lumen strobe), supplemented by a Smart 1/2 Watt Led. Also have a cheapo one that I keep in the bag.

Paul Kiernan

Lumen wrote: »

Flashing bicycle lights are now legal. There's nothing much wrong with low-power ones (e.g. Smart 1/2 Watt) - same visibility for less battery spend.

I have a Smart 1/2 Watt Rear which I keep on Flashing mode pretty much all the time, even in bright sunlight (for the SMIDSY's). A bloke on a motorbike pulled up beside me recently and said "Jaysus mate, that's a great light you have, I could see you for miles" then disappeared off with a roar. I still don't know whether he was taking the piss or not!

Cabaal

Vladimir Kurtains wrote: »

This. A flashing front light of any power is not nice for someone coming in the other direction.

True, but it does ensure that the person is noticed none the less with is better safety wise. Also forces people to slow down approaching the person.

07Lapierre

Cabaal wrote: »

True, but it does ensure that the person is noticed none the less with is better safety wise. Also forces people to slow down approaching the person.

Unless the bike/car is approaching on the wrong side of the road, why do you want to slow them down?
At night, its traffic coming behind you, travelling in the same direction, that you want to slow down and give you, the cyclist plenty of room.

at1withmyself

Cabaal wrote: »

True, but it does ensure that the person is noticed none the less with is better safety wise. Also forces people to slow down approaching the person.

I don't think it forces anyone to slow down. While yes it will get you noticed it's also important as Lumen points out to be considerate to the other road users. Nothing worse then driving along with someone coming towards you flashing a high power light, can cause a distraction and thus an accident which IMO is not better 'safety wise'.

Surveyor11

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I have a Smart 1/2 Watt Rear which I keep on Flashing mode pretty much all the time

Have to say it's a great light, the flash pattern is pretty noticeable

slap/dash

CheGuedara wrote: »

Def agree with Lumen and Vlad - more, cheaper lights for urban cycling where their function is probably less about allowing a rider to see the road ahead and more about drawing the attention/awareness of motorists and run the front light as a beam rather than flashing. In addition to a flashign front light being unpleasant for oncoming traffic, I don't think a flashing light assists their ability to judge your distance or speed as they approach you (i.e. that a solid light is easier tracked).

FWIW I do quite a bit of low/no light cycling with the club during the winter months and have settled on the Lezyne Superdrive front light and Knog Blinder Road rear as a one-size-fits-all pair for open road cycling and urban riding. Not a particularly cheap pair, but high quality and reliable (so far).

The Superdrive is at its most comfortable in a group at its lower setting (175lm) but solo or on a descent it's high settings (350lm or 500lm) illuminates a substantial distance for confident riding even including high speed descending. The very highest setting gets just 1.5hrs out of the stock batteries but aftermarket high mAh ones can get it to over 2hrs for a small extra cost. The pulse/flash mode is 350lm, so for the ride home through town is very hard to miss but I would keep it pointed low (as when riding with continuous beam) as it must be dazzling for anyone oncoming. It's not a strobe though so while it might cause people to see spots if positioned badly it shouldn't flush out those with latent epilepsy.

The Knog is a weapon and probably the last rear light I'll buy (unless it breaks when it will be replaced by the same or whatever supecedes it). All LEDs on it lives up to its name in a big way and I suspect is visible from low earth orbit. So that's visibility for night solo riding on open roads sorted. When in a bunch that would be untenable so there's a 'peloton' mode where it knocks it down to 2 LEDs so that riders behind aren't just riding into a red haze (and seeing the red mist!). And for urban riding home to/from the club meet (or commuting or whatever) there's also a strobe mode which is difficult to ignore.

love that knog.

ive been looking for something for the rear to replace my blackburn mars, and that might be it

i use the owleye highlux for the front. find it nice and have used it at night in the park with no issues.

http://www.rosebikes.com/article/owleye-led-front-light-highlux30/aid:590725

iMADEtheBBC

07Lapierre wrote: »

Unless the bike/car is approaching on the wrong side of the road, why do you want to slow them down?
At night, its traffic coming behind you, travelling in the same direction, that you want to slow down and give you, the cyclist plenty of room.

You've never use a cycle path? Pedestrians, skaters, rollerblades and cyclists going the wrong way. Drop into the Phoenix Park anytime.

endacl

iMADEtheBBC wrote: »

You've never use a cycle path? Pedestrians, skaters, rollerblades and cyclists going the wrong way. Drop into the Phoenix Park anytime.

Isn't there a thread for that?

squeaky crank

Spook_ie wrote: »

Would question the wisdom of two handlebar lights, unless you have one flashing, would imagine quite possible to mistake for a cars distant headlights rather than a much closer cyclist

I got those terra 2 evo - they are excellent - I don't think the 2 beams are a problem if they are close together (just let and right of the stem on mine ) they look like 1 light from distance - also i usually angle one of them to light up 10/15 ft in front for potholes gravel etc and the other is on flashing

aFlabbyPanda

I leave home at 6am for a 15k commute and at least half is along unlit or poorly lit roads. I bought one of the CREE lights from ebay for when its dark and also have a Halford Super Bright which I use in the flash mode in the lit areas or when its bright enough.

The CREE is the best light I've ever owned.

superlav

I agree with BrianjG, after years of trying various Cateye's Smart and other battery powered led lights I decided to get one of those CREE lights of eBay. Best €25 I have spent in a long time.

Battery power is great, I commute 45 mins each way and would usually charge once on the weekend and maybe again mid week. I rarely use full power, in town the lowest power is enough and on the unlit roads you can step it up, and at €25 it's not going to break the bank.
I try to be very conscious of having it pointed too high where it may dazzle oncoing drivers, and usually give it a tap downwards when on unlit roads with onciming cars.

There is no flashing mode, but imho that is a good thing when it comes to these really bright lights. I'm not looking ofrward to the winter months and having the crazy bright strobe lights coming towards me on the Sutton cyclepath. This reall gets to me. It's just distracting & annoying, it's one thing being lit up, it's a totally different thing to piss every other road user off in the process.

Spook_ie

superlav wrote: »

I agree with BrianjG, after years of trying various Cateye's Smart and other battery powered led lights I decided to get one of those CREE lights of eBay. Best €25 I have spent in a long time.

Battery power is great, I commute 45 mins each way and would usually charge once on the weekend and maybe again mid week. I rarely use full power, in town the lowest power is enough and on the unlit roads you can step it up, and at €25 it's not going to break the bank.
I try to be very conscious of having it pointed too high where it may dazzle oncoing drivers, and usually give it a tap downwards when on unlit roads with onciming cars.

There is no flashing mode, but imho that is a good thing when it comes to these really bright lights. I'm not looking ofrward to the winter months and having the crazy bright strobe lights coming towards me on the Sutton cyclepath. This reall gets to me. It's just distracting & annoying, it's one thing being lit up, it's a totally different thing to piss every other road user off in the process.

Funny thing is that the strobes or constant lights on bikes don't affect me at all ( as long as they are aimed slightly downwards ) but I do find irritating when people have them on their heads/helmets and are trying to make "eye contact" just DON'T put high powered lamps on your heads, how pissed off would you be if I decided to shine my main beams into your eyes!

Jawgap

I have an Exposure Diablo on the helmet - if it's annoying someone it means its doing its job by getting me noticed. I think this can be an issue less in the countryside than in the city where quite often there are a lot of other light sources competing for people's attention.

On the handlebars I have an Exposure Sixpack, running at medium power outside the city and switched to low power once I get inside the M50 - it absolutely floods the road with light (even on the low setting) and I've no problems spotting potholes etc - on rural roads it also makes sure I'm seen!!

Not really too bothered about other people's lights, cars etc using main beams.

On the back I use a Smart LED, a RedEye plugged into the Diablo smart socket and a Fibre Flare for a bit of visibility from the side.

Chips Lovell

BrianjG wrote: »

I leave home at 6am for a 15k commute and at least half is along unlit or poorly lit roads. I bought one of the CREE lights from ebay for when its dark and also have a Halford Super Bright which I use in the flash mode in the lit areas or when its bright enough.

The CREE is the best light I've ever owned.

superlav wrote: »

I agree with BrianjG, after years of trying various Cateye's Smart and other battery powered led lights I decided to get one of those CREE lights of eBay. Best €25 I have spent in a long time.

Thanks lads. I'm in the market for a new front light, since my current on is beginning ot show its age. Can't believe those CREE ones are so cheap.

Alek

CREEs seem to be great value alright, but at the end I've settled for Lezyne Power Drive XL Loaded.

It seems to be self-contained, relatively small, easy to remove and carry in the pocket commuter light, with enough punch for occasional night ride (400lm for 2hrs, 125lm for 5.5hrs).

Extra battery and a second bike mount is nice too :-)

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/lezyne/power-drive-xl-loaded-front-light-ec041391

Spook_ie

Jawgap wrote: »

I have an Exposure Diablo on the helmet - if it's annoying someone it means its doing its job by getting me noticed. I think this can be an issue less in the countryside than in the city where quite often there are a lot of other light sources competing for people's attention.

On the handlebars I have an Exposure Sixpack, running at medium power outside the city and switched to low power once I get inside the M50 - it absolutely floods the road with light (even on the low setting) and I've no problems spotting potholes etc - on rural roads it also makes sure I'm seen!!

Not really too bothered about other people's lights, cars etc using main beams.

On the back I use a Smart LED, a RedEye plugged into the Diablo smart socket and a Fibre Flare for a bit of visibility from the side.

Beg to differ if it's annoying that's not getting you noticed that's just being a prat

Surveyor11

Spook_ie wrote: »

Beg to differ if it's annoying that's not getting you noticed that's just being a prat

Like everything, common sense must be exercised. I cycle on country roads and you wouldn't believe the amount of cars that will overtake a slower car, onto the opposite side of a narrow road, heading towards me.

It's about positioning the lights - pointed slightly downwards will mean it's not directly into someone's retina.

endacl

Indeed. Head torches don't cause crashes. Heads do.

Ryder

BrianjG wrote: »

I leave home at 6am for a 15k commute and at least half is along unlit or poorly lit roads. I bought one of the CREE lights from ebay for when its dark and also have a Halford Super Bright which I use in the flash mode in the lit areas or when its bright enough.

The CREE is the best light I've ever owned.

hey Brian, what's the build quality like on those crees? Need better lights, but read some mixed reviews online about the crees not even lasting one season

Captain Havoc

Posts deleted.

godtabh

alkos wrote: »

CREEs seem to be great value alright, but at the end I've settled for Lezyne Power Drive XL Loaded.

It seems to be self-contained, relatively small, easy to remove and carry in the pocket commuter light, with enough punch for occasional night ride (400lm for 2hrs, 125lm for 5.5hrs).

Extra battery and a second bike mount is nice too :-)

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/lezyne/power-drive-xl-loaded-front-light-ec041391

I have that might. First spin with it in Saturday. Put the light on full blast leaving and just left it. Was still shining 4.5 hours later

Lepidoptera

Just be careful with the forward strobes if they are really high-powered, and possibly do a test of how and where you have it placed - have someone else come towards you on your bike in the dark so you can see for yourself what it will be like. I was coming home the other night and was half blinded by someone rounding a bend opposite way with a flashing light angled dead ahead. Gave me a bit of a wobble. Being noticed is great, but not sure you want to cause an oncoming motorist to flinch or look away either...

Stereomaniac

The second time you go out with your new light on, you will know more than the first time. Don't worry about it, you will get used to it. It is getting into bike light time again now, as the nights are starting to come in earlier. I got onto a bike a while ago for the first time in half a decade and could barely stay on it. But I am adamant I will get back to cycling regularly.

Alek

godtabh wrote: »

I have that might. First spin with it in Saturday. Put the light on full blast leaving and just left it. Was still shining 4.5 hours later

Tried mine this morning, didn't even last 1h on high + 3h on low... dodgy battery?

I need to test bit more I guess.


(The power is very adequate. A pity it does not blink *slightly* faster in flash mode, though)

aFlabbyPanda

I run my CREE on the lowest settings and I find I can get the week from it easily (5 40min spins at least). It's last me fine so far but I've not needed it for a few months now. It started getting dark again till after 6.20ish now so might dig it out again.

Lanzecki

I used a cree 1600. It has High/Low and a vicious flash. Since I'm very rural in the winter I have it on High on unlit roads and flash thru towns. It's pointed down to light the road around 20 feet in front of me.

Battery life is acceptable, and the build quality is surprisingly good. The LED it's self generates a load of heat (as any light will) but cycling keeps it cool. The Ali case acts as a heatsink.

It's waterproof enough for general usage, but I wouldn't go swimming with the battery. That said I've often been out in enough rain to think I'd be dryer swimming.

Mine has recently died after I added more batteries and got the cell count a little wrong (Should have been in parallel not series). So I had the opportunity take mine to pieces. I felt the LED it's self wasn't very well attached to the Heat sink, but that has never been a problem.

The latest ones (as seen on ebay) seem to use a rubber o-ring to mount to the light to the bars. My old one had a removable mount that made taking the light a doodle. the mounts are screwed into the light with a single screw, so are interchangeable.

The battery pack comes in a nylon fabric pouch with a belt loop and a Velcro loop that I used to connect the battery to the head tube.

Cable length is more then enough. Too much to be honest. With the light mounted, you'd get the battery on the seat tube if you wanted.

One issue is that these cheap cree lights have a plain glass front IE light goes everywhere much like an old fashioned everyready light. There is a replacement lens that can be used that controls the lightbeam giving a more direction wide beam similar to a car.

Check out ebay for "lens for magicshine" these lens fit the Cree lights (the front unscrews) also.

See here for before and after.

I've bought one to replace the broken one I'm that happy with them.

Lanzecki

Thinking about it.

These lights use a 18650 battery. A pretty much standard battery used in many devices such as laptop batteries. I happened to have an old laptop battery kicking around that was redundant. 5 mins with chisel and safety glasses liberated 4 18650 batteries.

My Cree has 2 cells in Parallel (increase the available amps, no the voltage) adding 2 more cells would give (in theory) double the usable life time.

Since the batteries are in parallel the charger that was supplied will still charge the extra larger battery pack. It just sees a higher capacity battery.

Just a thought for anyone with a chisel, soldering iron and a need for more battery life.