Moving Internal door

dibs101

Hi,

Just looking for some advice here. Moving internal door to open up the living room more.

So question is when removing the slabs to cut out for door frame do I remove it all the way to the coving or is it enough to cut from underneath of top of door frame? (see attached)door.PNG


If I dont remove to ceiling will you see joint when it is plastered over?

I dont want the hassle of removing the coving.

What would people recommend?

All input appreciated...

sydthebeat

Have you investigated what the wall is holding up?

ceiling joists? First floor walls? Etc

This will dictate what you need to do.

dibs101

sydthebeat wrote: »

Have you investigated what the wall is holding up?

ceiling joists? First floor walls? Etc

This will dictate what you need to do.

Hi, it's a studded partition and I am not planning on adjusting the integrity of it just inserting a door frame.

sydthebeat

dibs101 wrote: »

Hi, it's a studded partition and I am not planning on adjusting the integrity of it just inserting a door frame.

just because its a stud partition certainly does not mean its not load bearing.....

dibs101

sydthebeat wrote: »

just because its a stud partition certainly does not mean its not load bearing.....

As I said, I'm not planning on adjusting the integrity of it. If I have to move a stud across I will but I won't be removing any.

sydthebeat

dibs101 wrote: »

As I said, I'm not planning on adjusting the integrity of it. If I have to move a stud across I will but I won't be removing any.

The studs will be at max 600 centres, so you will have to remove at least one.

you will also have to provide an additional stud to the existing ope and bridge accordingly.

In my experience it will be almost impossible to do this without some player cracking in the future, at both the existing and new ope.

The rolls royce solution its to remove all the plasterboards and replaster the whole wall.

scwazrh

if you cut an opening in a wall you are adjusting the integrity of it.You need to know if the wall is load bearing or not.As syd said a stud partition can be load bearing.

dibs101

sydthebeat wrote: »

The studs will be at max 600 centres, so you will have to remove at least one.

you will also have to provide an additional stud to the existing ope and bridge accordingly.

In my experience it will be almost impossible to do this without some player cracking in the future, at both the existing and new ope.

The rolls royce solution its to remove all the plasterboards and replaster the whole wall.

Thanks, so remove all existing plasterboard, stud/bridge out the existing door opening and add new door frame. Will I have to remove existing coving or is there any way to keep it?

Poor Uncle Tom

dibs101 wrote: »

Thanks, so remove all existing plasterboard, stud/bridge out the existing door opening and add new door frame. Will I have to remove existing coving or is there any way to keep it?

The coving is 'planted on' over the plasterboard, so if you are removing the plasterboard, you will be removing the coving.

But this really shouldn't matter, if you are going to the expense of renewing the plasterboard to avoid possible hairline joint cracks, you can also replace the coving, it's not a big job if you are going to those lengths.

topcatcbr

sydthebeat wrote: »

The rolls royce solution its to remove all the plasterboards and replaster the whole wall.

While this is the best solution it will be up to you if you want to go to this length.

You could just cut a new ope to the nearest stud and double stud around new door ope with door ope head (bridge)supported on stud work thus supporting cut stud. Any qualified carpenter would be more than able to do this. Lining paper can cover existing plasterboard and the appearance of cracks if they happen.

It shouldn't be too big a job and will allow you to keep the coving intact.