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Parts for Bike

  • 07-08-2013 10:22am
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭


    Im new to the whole bike scene

    Which bike BRAND would have the most readily available parts and would be the least complicated to service if you were to bring it to a bike shop for a service or fixing ?

    or does the bike brand even matter when it comes to bikes and maintenance hardships. i.e they mostly use the same generic parts


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭No Pants


    Other than the frame and forks, everything else comes from a different company I think.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    oh ok so no real generic parts as such


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,308 ✭✭✭quozl


    Shimano would be the biggest supplier of bike components.
    SRAM might be the second biggest? They tend to be compatible with Shimano.

    Campagnolo are largely incompatible ( I think ) but aren't that rare so bike shops will have no trouble with them.

    Then there are other manufacturers who make components compatible with one of the big guys - for example long reach brakes that will work fine with shimano/campag/SRAM shifters.

    I don't think you need to worry about your original question, whatever bike you buy - unless it's something deliberately obscure like a 1970s french racer - it's going to have bits from the various big manufacturers and it'll be no bother to your local bike shop.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭No Pants


    Take a look at the any cycling website like ChainReactionCycles, Wiggle or Bike24 and you'll see what I mean. The drivetrain (crank, chainrings, chain, derailleurs, cassette) will probably come from Shimano, SRAM or Campagnolo. Gearlevers and brakelevers too, although Tektro can sometimes pop up. Saddle could be Selle Italia. Wheels from Alex, Mavic, DT Swiss or Easton. Tyres from Kenda at the cheaper end, Schwalbe or Continental at the more expensive end.

    I'm using a roadbike for the above. MTBs or hybrids will be slightly different.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    Thanks very much for replies


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    On another note, I know all of this depends on usage etc
    But lets say for a casual user of a commuter bike, 15 miles a week maybe

    How often would one need to pump tyres ?
    How often would one service a bike ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭No Pants


    On another note, I know all of this depends on usage etc
    But lets say for a casual user of a commuter bike, 15 miles a week maybe

    How often would one need to pump tyres ?
    How often would one service a bike ?
    Pump tyres once a week if there are no obvious problems.
    Service it once a year. If you clean it regularly and give the drivetrain some lubricant, you won't need much servicing.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    No Pants wrote: »
    Pump tyres once a week if there are no obvious problems.
    Service it once a year. If you clean it regularly and give the drivetrain some lubricant, you won't need much servicing.

    pump them once a week, eh ! ok

    what do you mean by clean it, just hose it down is it ?
    BY Lubricant , do you mean spray wd40 on it or something else ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭No Pants


    pump them once a week, eh ! ok

    what do you mean by clean it, just hose it down is it ?
    BY Lubricant , do you mean spray wd40 on it or something else ?
    Pump them once a week to the pressure range that's written on the side of the tyre.

    Use plenty of soapy water, a small stiff brush and a sponge. Get all the gunk off the chain and sprockets. Don't use WD40, get a cycle oil from your local bike shop.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 535 ✭✭✭dogsears


    pump them once a week, eh ! ok

    what do you mean by clean it, just hose it down is it ?
    BY Lubricant , do you mean spray wd40 on it or something else ?

    Use a proper Cycle oil as NoPants says but also, don't spray it because that gets oil on other parts and they then just attract dirt and dust that messes with smooth running. Put a small drop of oil on the inside of each link of the chain, then grab the chain with a clean rag and turn the pedals backwards so that the whole length of the chain gets wiped - this cleans off excess oil that would attract dirt to stick to the outside of the chain.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,867 ✭✭✭Tonyandthewhale


    Yeah, don't put WD40 on your bike. WD40 is not a lubricant it's a degreaser. It's fine for cleaning stuff with and works ok for removing rust but if you leave it on your chain as a lubricant it'll clear off the existing useful lubricant then it'll attract dirt and then it'll wash off with the first sign of rain leaving you with a dirty but unlubricated chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,625 ✭✭✭happytramp


    The reason for pumping them once a week is that it will drastically reduce the amount of punctures you get. A hard tire repels glass/debris etc while a soft tire literally invites it in. With a decent track pump like this
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/topeak-joe-blow-max-hp-pump/rp-prod74894
    Your tires can be inflated to proper pressure in under a minute.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    Thanks for all the helpful replies.

    An looking at buying my first bike in a long time. The one I want is in short supply and my size - XL also very thin ON the ground.

    Went to a shop today that actaully had the exact bike i wanted and my size...........but it was out on display. . Asked your man would that be the actual bike I would be getting if I bought and he said yeah. Asked him how long on display and he said 3 days.

    just wondering is it normal to buy a display bike like this that may have been test cycled before by previous customers or should I demand a totally new one out if the box ?

    As I said, I'm new to all this so don't know what the norm is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,625 ✭✭✭happytramp


    Yes. Buying a display model is normal but it's customary to receive a discount from the RRP.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    Another q. Bike I'm buying has quick release wheels. From an anti theft point of view, Should I get this changed to a non quick release setup ?

    Any thoughts welcome


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,308 ✭✭✭quozl


    I think you should. If you only have one lock and no cable, I'd be happier popping into the shops like that than with a quick release skewer on the bike.

    I wouldn't rely on that myself though - you need either a 2nd lock that gets your front wheel or at least a cable that runs through it and back to your single lock, IMO.

    You can get security skewers that use a special tool to open them but they're ridiculous money.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    quozl wrote: »
    I think you should. If you only have one lock and no cable, I'd be happier popping into the shops like that than with a quick release skewer on the bike.

    I wouldn't rely on that myself though - you need either a 2nd lock that gets your front wheel or at least a cable that runs through it and back to your single lock, IMO.

    You can get security skewers that use a special tool to open them but they're ridiculous money.


    If I was to not get the quick release thing, is the alternative a wheel that opens with an Alan key or a wrench ?

    If so, a scumbag could steal these too. Probably take him a minute longer like.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,308 ✭✭✭quozl


    The alternative is either allen key skewers or those locking ones that I mentioned. The locking ones are expensive. Maybe 30euro for the two skewers.

    The allen key one means that a scumbag has to have a allen key on them to take your wheel - which some potential opportunist thieves won't. It's a step up from quick-release. How significant, I dunno.

    I always lock my front wheel with a separate chain if I'm leaving the bike for longer than to pop into the shop though. Based on the bikes I see around Dublin, I'm at the paranoid end of bike locking ;)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭from_atozinc


    quozl wrote: »
    The alternative is either allen key skewers or those locking ones that I mentioned. The locking ones are expensive. Maybe 30euro for the two skewers.

    The allen key one means that a scumbag has to have a allen key on them to take your wheel - which some potential opportunist thieves won't. It's a step up from quick-release. How significant, I dunno.

    I always lock my front wheel with a separate chain if I'm leaving the bike for longer than to pop into the shop though. Based on the bikes I see around Dublin, I'm at the paranoid end of bike locking ;)

    Thanks again
    My thinking is this. Id like to be able to transport my bike in the car sometimes and be nice to have the quick release stuff for this purpose.

    I have a standard allen key tool set, so suppose I could just use this instead. This would make it slightly more difficult for scumbags.

    Dont know if I need a special allen key tool set though


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭No Pants


    My advice is to keep the QRs and get a cable to run through the wheel(s) and back to your D-lock.


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