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Move hot water cylinder to attic?

  • 05-08-2013 9:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,301 ✭✭✭✭


    Folks,
    I'm spitballing ideas at the moment regarding a bit of work at my house at the moment and I'm wondering if some of the ITK's here could critique an idea I have at the moment.

    I'm considering taking out the internal walls on the 1st floor and reconfiguring the space to allow a better layout of the bedrooms and maybe allow space for a small ensuite in the master bedroom.

    In working out the new wall positions and so on, I've come up with the idea of ditching my hot-press(never used anyway) and if possible moving the hot water cylinder up to the attic to free up a bit more floor space on the 1st floor.

    Is this type of arrangement feasible?
    I appreciate there may a problem with water pressure, having the cold water tank and hot water tank at the same level.
    But is there anything else I'm overlooking?(If its possible I mean)
    I already have my gas boiler installed in my attic, and my 1st thought was maybe ditch the cylinder altogether and go for a combi?
    But costwise that would be a big hit and my boiler is only @5yrs old so if possible I'd like to save on major costs if I can.

    Any advice will be much appreciated folks.
    Thanks in advance.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    Currently what height are the cold water storage tanks in the attic ?

    Are they sitting on the floor of the Attic ?

    If you want to move the Cylinder up to the attic, you need to raise the cold water storage tank so the bottom of the tank is higher than the top of the cylinder.

    Do you have enough height in your attic to achieve this ?
    If yes, then you need to get a stand made for the tanks to sit on, the stand will have to be structurally sound as there will be a heck of a lot of weight on it, get a carpenter to look at it. And secondly depending on what size cylinder you have its adding a lot of weight to the attic floor.

    If your looking at completely changing the first floor layout you may be engaging a structural engineer to ensure its done correctly, they could also advise on the stand for the tank and if the weight of a cylinder full of water will be an issue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    banie01 wrote: »
    Folks,
    I'm spitballing ideas at the moment regarding a bit of work at my house at the moment and I'm wondering if some of the ITK's here could critique an idea I have at the moment.

    I'm considering taking out the internal walls on the 1st floor and reconfiguring the space to allow a better layout of the bedrooms and maybe allow space for a small ensuite in the master bedroom.

    In working out the new wall positions and so on, I've come up with the idea of ditching my hot-press(never used anyway) and if possible moving the hot water cylinder up to the attic to free up a bit more floor space on the 1st floor.

    Is this type of arrangement feasible?
    I appreciate there may a problem with water pressure, having the cold water tank and hot water tank at the same level.
    But is there anything else I'm overlooking?(If its possible I mean)
    I already have my gas boiler installed in my attic, and my 1st thought was maybe ditch the cylinder altogether and go for a combi?
    But costwise that would be a big hit and my boiler is only @5yrs old so if possible I'd like to save on major costs if I can.

    Any advice will be much appreciated folks.
    Thanks in advance.
    Hi
    It's not a major move and is been done more and more now, you can even order a hot water tank that basically lying down in your attic so height restrictions are not a problem.
    As you are relocating the tank it's best to fit it over existing solid walls or around the chimney where there is good support,
    All the best
    Cc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,301 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Currently what height are the cold water storage tanks in the attic ?

    Are they sitting on the floor of the Attic ?
    Yes the cold water tank is on the attic floor.
    If you want to move the Cylinder up to the attic, you need to raise the cold water storage tank so the bottom of the tank is higher than the top of the cylinder.

    Do you have enough height in your attic to achieve this ?
    I only have @4'8'' height to the apex of my attic so height could well be an issue.
    If yes, then you need to get a stand made for the tanks to sit on, the stand will have to be structurally sound as there will be a heck of a lot of weight on it, get a carpenter to look at it. And secondly depending on what size cylinder you have its adding a lot of weight to the attic floor.

    If your looking at completely changing the first floor layout you may be engaging a structural engineer to ensure its done correctly, they could also advise on the stand for the tank and if the weight of a cylinder full of water will be an issue.
    I will be engaging an architect and if necessary an engineer before any works are undertaken of course.
    But given the low height available to me in the attic it may not even be feasible.
    I suppose my best bet is a site survey from a competent plumber and with their advice I can plan accordingly
    ccsolar wrote: »
    Hi
    It's not a major move and is been done more and more now, you can even order a hot water tank that basically lying down in your attic so height restrictions are not a problem.
    As you are relocating the tank it's best to fit it over existing solid walls or around the chimney where there is good support,
    All the best
    Cc

    Ccsolar, thanks for the input and the advice regarding the low height/profile tank.
    You wouldn't by any chance have a link to these?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    banie01 wrote: »
    Yes the cold water tank is on the attic floor.


    I only have @4'8'' height to the apex of my attic so height could well be an issue.


    I will be engaging an architect and if necessary an engineer before any works are undertaken of course.
    But given the low height available to me in the attic it may not even be feasible.
    I suppose my best bet is a site survey from a competent plumber and with their advice I can plan accordingly



    Ccsolar, thanks for the input and the advice regarding the low height/profile tank.
    You wouldn't by any chance have a link to these?

    Have a look at this link
    http://www.joulesolutions.ie/Cyclone_Horizontal_Un_Vented/323
    Cc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    I concur with what ccsolar is recommending , the horizontal cylinder would be a good option to look at.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,301 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    ccsolar wrote: »
    I concur with what ccsolar is recommending , the horizontal cylinder would be a good option to look at.

    Lads, thanks a million for the input!
    It's very much appreciated and gives me some great options.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    I concur with what ccsolar is recommending , the horizontal cylinder would be a good option to look at.

    As the cylindre on that website is showing a dual coil. I would recommend linking them together rather than leaving one dormant for higher efficiency. Unless you get a single coil one.
    I've a coppor craft upright ordanary insulated cylindre with a high efficiency coil, when I ordered it with 2 high efficiency coils and linked them together, totally great job, 12-15 min for
    Full hot tank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    scudo2 wrote: »
    As the cylindre on that website is showing a dual coil. I would recommend linking them together rather than leaving one dormant for higher efficiency. Unless you get a single coil one.
    I've a coppor craft upright ordanary insulated cylindre with a high efficiency coil, when I ordered it with 2 high efficiency coils and linked them together, totally great job, 12-15 min for
    Full hot tank.

    All cylinders now come with a " high efficiency coil"
    I would recommend that all home owners installing a new cylinder fit a triple coil for performance and any plumber worth 2 cents will automatically link free coils together.
    We now fit triple coil tanks as standard and link the solar into 2 coils effectively splitting the tank into 2 sections thus giving all year round performance from the solar.
    The cost difference between twin and triple coil tanks should be around €100..
    Cc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 270 ✭✭zbluebirdz


    Would the extreme temperature in the attic (very hot in summer, freezing in winter) have an effect on the hot water cylinder? What about the boiler?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    ccsolar wrote: »
    All cylinders now come with a " high efficiency coil"
    I would recommend that all home owners installing a new cylinder fit a triple coil for performance and any plumber worth 2 cents will automatically link free coils together.
    We now fit triple coil tanks as standard and link the solar into 2 coils effectively splitting the tank into 2 sections thus giving all year round performance from the solar.
    The cost difference between twin and triple coil tanks should be around €100..
    Cc

    So am I worth two cents or do I not meet the standard.

    Just trying to add my two cents worth.!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    zbluebirdz wrote: »
    Would the extreme temperature in the attic (very hot in summer, freezing in winter) have an effect on the hot water cylinder? What about the boiler?

    Frost thermostat on boiler to protect it and attic heater to protect cyl. and pipe work + tanks. A must given todays high level of insulation and cold attics.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    zbluebirdz wrote: »
    Would the extreme temperature in the attic (very hot in summer, freezing in winter) have an effect on the hot water cylinder? What about the boiler?
    Hi zbluebirdz
    The tank will have 50 mm insulation there fore will be well protected from the temperature changed and all piping should have a minimum of 20 mm insulation
    The boiler should have a frost stat but should also be well insulated as frost stats can fail and should not be relied on.
    The only thing that will not send you a bill every year is insulation
    Cc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭ccsolar


    scudo2 wrote: »
    So am I worth two cents or do I not meet the standard.

    Just trying to add my two cents worth.!!

    Hi Scudo2
    You highlighted and excellent point that I forgot to mention, linking the coils.
    I do apologise if I offended you in any way as my post was a general comment and was in no way referring to you directly or belittling your post.

    Cc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    ccsolar wrote: »
    Hi Scudo2
    You highlighted and excellent point that I forgot to mention, linking the coils.
    I do apologise if I offended you in any way as my post was a general comment and was in no way referring to you directly or belittling your post.

    Cc

    I just get anoyed to see unused coils on expensive heating systems.


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