new chain ? gear problems.

aindriu80

hi,

I need some help on my Cannondale Supersix 105 Compact Road Bike Replica (2012) bike.

I was cycling last week and the gear cable broke. I managed to get home (on the hardest gear) but just as I was getting home the chain wrapped around my front chain ring(I was using the smaller gear up front for a change). I eventually managed to get the chain mess sorted and brought the bike to the local LBS.

I told him about what happened and he replaced the gear cable and said he tightened the chain as there was 2% slack in it ? He said I would need a new chain at some point because of the give that he measured. When I took the bike home the gears kept jumping around and it feels terrible to cycle. He did take a few links off the chain and it is smaller now.

I think I need to get a new chain due to the 2% slack/play/stretch on it (only 1% is allowed before replacement) but I am not sure. I am also not sure on the price, he was quoting from €30 to €50 and there was one at €65. They seem cheaper on wiggle but I don't know which to get.

Also the gears feel terrible to use and I can't get all gears on the bike. For example I can't get the smaller gear on the front chain ring with the smallest gear on the back derailleur. It doesn't feel like the bike I bought and chaining up and down with one click from the levers does not correspond to one gear change on the bike. Any ideas ?

C3PO

The bike just sounds like it needs a proper service! Shortening is not a solution to a worn chain. Replacing a chain is an easy job once you have the correct tools but by the sound of it your gears need adjusting too and it's also possible that you'll need a new cassette!

ford2600

aindriu80 wrote: »

hi,

I need some help on my Cannondale Supersix 105 Compact Road Bike Replica (2012) bike.

I was cycling last week and the gear cable broke. I managed to get home (on the hardest gear) but just as I was getting home the chain wrapped around my front chain ring(I was using the smaller gear up front for a change). I eventually managed to get the chain mess sorted and brought the bike to the local LBS.

I told him about what happened and he replaced the gear cable and said he tightened the chain as there was 2% slack in it ? He said I would need a new chain at some point because of the give that he measured. When I took the bike home the gears kept jumping around and it feels terrible to cycle. He did take a few links off the chain and it is smaller now.

I think I need to get a new chain due to the 2% slack/play/stretch on it (only 1% is allowed before replacement) but I am not sure. I am also not sure on the price, he was quoting from €30 to €50 and there was one at €65. They seem cheaper on wiggle but I don't know which to get.

Also the gears feel terrible to use and I can't get all gears on the bike. For example I can't get the smaller gear on the front chain ring with the smallest gear on the back derailleur. It doesn't feel like the bike I bought and chaining up and down with one click from the levers does not correspond to one gear change on the bike. Any ideas ?

How much mileage has your chain done? Do you clean and lube it?

New chain is essy to fit, any 10speed will do. Sram 1051 or 1091 depending how much you want to spend.

If you left chain on too long, such that it's 2% worn you'll probably need cassette also.

I'd change both if I was you. Tiagra cassette for 25 on crc. Get 105 if you like, don't believe there is much difference.

Chain tool, chain whip and lockring tool and your good to go. YouTube and park tools site very good.

For measuring chain I use the big sprocket large chainring method if you don't want to melt your head counting links!

aindriu80

C3PO wrote: »

The bike just sounds like it needs a proper service! Shortening is not a solution to a worn chain. Replacing a chain is an easy job once you have the correct tools but by the sound of it your gears need adjusting too and it's also possible that you'll need a new cassette!

The bike has been in with the LBS fairly often but I have not thought of a proper service. It works and I am fairly happy with it and look after it.

He has lots of tools to do stuff with the chain but I did order a new chain. I still don't know much about chains, their price, weight strength etc. Is €50 for a new chain (light 'ish) about right ?

I can't think anything would be wrong with the cassette. The teeth all look ok.

aindriu80

ford2600 wrote: »

How much mileage has your chain done? Do you clean and lube it?

New chain is essy to fit, any 10speed will do. Sram 1051 or 1091 depending how much you want to spend.

If you left chain on too long, such that it's 2% worn you'll probably need cassette also.

I'd change both if I was you. Tiagra cassette for 25 on crc. Get 105 if you like, don't believe there is much difference.

Chain tool, chain whip and lockring tool and your good to go. YouTube and park tools site very good.

For measuring chain I use the big sprocket large chainring method if you don't want to melt your head counting links!

Since I bought the bike in August 2012 I have cycled 8078km.

I may well be getting any 10 speed chain as I don't know the difference. ><

New cassette, well I don't mind getting one but I don't know which one the LBS might get for me. I'm not sure which one to get or how to handle it.

LBS will change chain for me so no worries there. Thanks for the chainring info but I think it will melt my head : )

NeedMoreGears

A Shimano 105 chain is about €20 on chain reaction http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=50457 I have found them a bit of a pain to install though and have sometimes used a sram quick link instead of the pin supplied.

It seems a bit odd that he took some links out of the chain to tighten it. Sheldon http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html suggests 1/16 inch in one foot maximum - i.e about 0.5%. I would replace the chain and probably the LBS sooner rather than later.

Correct length can be found here http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SI_09R0A/SI-09R0A-001-Eng_v1_m56577569830688497.pdf

As regards the shifting - you shouldn't normally be able to get a small front/small rear combination because the chain will be at the wrong angle - this is known as cross chaining and its bad for the chain/gears. On my own bike (2x20 speed 105) I get up to about gear 7 with the smaller front ring and down to gear 3 with the large front ring (1 being the physically biggest gear on the left of the cassette).

It sounds like the gear cable length is not quite right; not terribly unusual after a cable replacement. You can adjust this at the rear deraiiluer. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur & about a million youtube videos.

aindriu80

NeedMoreGears wrote: »

A Shimano 105 chain is about €20 on chain reaction http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=50457 I have found them a bit of a pain to install though and have sometimes used a sram quick link instead of the pin supplied.

It seems a bit odd that he took some links out of the chain to tighten it. Sheldon http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html suggests 1/16 inch in one foot maximum - i.e about 0.5%. I would replace the chain and probably the LBS sooner rather than later.

Correct length can be found here http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SI_09R0A/SI-09R0A-001-Eng_v1_m56577569830688497.pdf

As regards the shifting - you shouldn't normally be able to get a small front/small rear combination because the chain will be at the wrong angle - this is known as cross chaining and its bad for the chain/gears. On my own bike (2x20 speed 105) I get up to about gear 7 with the smaller front ring and down to gear 3 with the large front ring (1 being the physically biggest gear on the left of the cassette).

It sounds like the gear cable length is not quite right; not terribly unusual after a cable replacement. You can adjust this at the rear deraiiluer. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur & about a million youtube videos.

He took 1 or 2 links out I think because of the slack in the chain. I mentioned it to him that I wasn't 100% comfortable with how things are working with the gears on the bike. When I was going up a big hill (with the smaller gear on the front chain ring due to the cable snapping) there was nearly enough slack for the chain to jump off completely.

If I got the gears to change correctly at the back I guess I could ignore using the smaller front gear. I am just not 100% with the way they are working at the moment. Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned it to him but I have to go back to the LBS as things are not anyway smooth at the moment.

The bike came with Cassette: Shimano 105 5700, 12-27, 10-Speed and it does it for me so I would probably take the same again if a replacement is completely necessary.

aindriu80

I am going to try the new chain first and see if still jumps around. I will get a new cassette after that if needs be.

Here are a few pictures I took of the cassette. I'm not sure if you can make out any of the teeth and their condition.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3082yga7fhzz7rp/DSC_0045.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ov3ldkdmr3oq2bv/DSC_0046.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gp9m3j3q6ulye2r/DSC_0047.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lcp3128vp4822ch/DSC_0048.jpg

route66

From what I can see, cogs 3 & 4 are worn. The chain is on no 2 but I suspect this may be the same. When I say worn, I mean that the detent in the cog no longer looks symmetrical: the LHS (which is the driven side) is visibly more sloping than the right hand side.

Looks like you need a new cassette too.

ford2600

Clean the new chain. That cassette and chain are filthy.
Check your chain regularly also.

aindriu80

route66 wrote: »

From what I can see, cogs 3 & 4 are worn. The chain is on no 2 but I suspect this may be the same. When I say worn, I mean that the detent in the cog no longer looks symmetrical: the LHS (which is the driven side) is visibly more sloping than the right hand side.

Looks like you need a new cassette too.

Thanks for taking a look at the pictures. Its very hard for me to tell. I read some of the links posted above and they said replace chain first then try cycling in the middle gears to see if there is any movement. I will try the new chain first before I order a new cassette.

I am not sure if the LBS will replace a cassette cheaply. I see it on wiggle but I am not sure if that price will transfer to what I will have to pay.

aindriu80

ford2600 wrote: »

Clean the new chain. That cassette and chain are filthy.
Check your chain regularly also.

He put lube on the chain hence the look. If it works smoothly I won't touch it.

joxerjohn

Over 8000 Km in 10 months is a lot of mileage, well done. From looking at the pictures I think that the cassette is pretty well worn and does need replacing.

Also your chain and cassette have a nice grey gritty oily paste mixture on them that would grind down the components. If you rub some of the oil between your fingers it will feel a bit gritty that's what causes the wear.

Hopefully you will get away with just a new chain and the cassette and the two chain rings on the front are ok.

joxerjohn

BTW I would also check out the rear derailleur to ensure that it is still functioning properly. If there is slack in your chain this may arise from the RD no longer tensioning the chain properly.

If you do not know how to do these jobs yourself do you know someone who does and if not, get a reputable bike shop to service your bike properly for you. No offence but I would question the service you are getting at the moment.

aindriu80

Well the LBS is the LBS. He has done an ok job so far but when it comes to price and what future part he uses I don't know. For now I am paying €50 for a new lightweight chain but I don't know anything about it.

I think I will have to get a new cassette based on the premise that they usually get replaced at some point. Maybe I can order the correct one on wiggle and get him to fit it?

I took a few pictures. Its hard to make out but it looks like some of the teeth are damaged in the front chain ring.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/66ezbltjuujqk3p/DSC_0049.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qeg43a1oju6vyqj/DSC_0050.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d6g0uvn0o23w2ca/DSC_0051.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uk9c9f4lzoi927f/DSC_0052.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mkk4wjnqerbpmwi/DSC_0053.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4gmlkdkednmopl2/DSC_0054.jpg

mirv

Go to a new LBS as your current one seems to be useless if he's charging you 50e for a chain and 1) doesn't notice how worn the rest of your drivetrain is, and 2) doesn't seem to be able to index the gears after popping in a new cable - sloppy shifting after cable replacement means that the cable tension is most likely incorrect, rather than due to wear or chain length issues, as it was shifting smoothly before.

Changing a chain, cassette and tuning the gears after installing a cable shouldn't take more than 15 minutes for an amateur mechanic.

Your cassette, chain and large chainring all appear to be very badly worn. There's no point in replacing a single item as it will wear very quickly to the level of the rest of the drivetrain, ie driving a new chain on worn sprockets and rings will stretch the chain to fit. The wear is entirely your own fault due to lack of cleaning and maintenance.

Unless you are ready to replace the the chain, cassette and large chainring in one go I suggest you clean your chain properly and put some lube on it, as it's filthy. Throwing lube on a dirty chain is useless - it's just washing the dirt and grit into the innermost surfaces.

ford2600

Mirv won't get any awards for diplomacy but it doesn't mean he's wrong.

mirv

It is worrying when a mechanic can't index gears though or diagnose wear assuming that there's no damage to the shifters/derailleur/hangers that is.

Charging 50e for a single replacement chain without replacing the rest of the drivetrain means that the new chain will skip on the worn sprockets, and he'll probably need to buy another new chain as it rapidly wears. Or worst case scenario, he'll wear that new chain half way and then get a new cassette down, thereby wearing both down needlessly! Either this guy is a bad mechanic, or a genius salesman.

NeedMoreGears

I'm not quite up to amateur status yet. It would take me a about half an hour to change the chain and cassette and reindex the gears (sorry MIRV - only kidding).

I recently replaced a shimano 5700 cassette and chain for a total cost of about 65 euro. I had the cassette removal tool, the chain whip and a chain breaker - about €30 euro's worth. All can be found on the usual websites. It might be worth doing yourself.

I do a similar mileage (kilometrage??) as you. I lube the chain weekly and clean it fortnightly. I got about 15,000km from the chain and cassette & chainrings. I might have got a it more from the other components if I had changed the chain earlier.

From what you've said I'd agree with MIRV's mechanic/salesman comment

BadCharlie

I know a short while back, someone on boards was saying they change their chain every 2,000km which i thought was a bit to offten.

ford2600

BadCharlie wrote: »

I know a short while back, someone on boards was saying they change their chain every 2,000km which i thought was a bit to offten.

Chain wear depends on many factors.

Weather, cleaning, lubing, lube quality, racing or not, changing under pressure or not, extent of cross chaining, off road or not etc

Changed on wear indication @800km for mtb and 4500km for road bike.

Depending on wear change cassette every 2-4 chains. Perhaps two cassettes per chainring.

On an ultegra set up or similar not changing a chain in time can get very expensive.

Op's haven't covered themselves in glory, but if your doing circa 10k per year you need to look after your gear

mirv

I'll clean my chain around every 250-300km depending on how wet and gritty it's been out. Can be as quick as 10 minutes if I'm doing the drivetrain and not the rest of the bike. I'm not surprised people get around 2000km from a chain if they leave it to get as dirty as the OP.

Here's what you need:

Large 1-2L bottle of white spirits/diesel/turpentine.
Two glass jars or metal cans.
Chain with removable quicklink.
Toothbrush and rag.

Here's how you do it:

1) Pour around 200-250ml of solvent and half fill each jar.
2) Remove chain and put into first jar, and swirl/swish around.
3) Using toothbrush and rag use the solvent from the first jar to clean cassette and chainrings.
4) Swirl/swish some more and maybe leave for a couple minutes
5) Take the now cleaner chain and put into second jar, swirl/swish some more.
6) Take chain out, dry the chainrings, cassette and chain with rag
7) Put back on bike and lube the chain carefully - if you drench it in oil then it'll get dirty again quickly.
8) Pour solvent from jars back into big bottle, the grime will settle and you can reuse the solvent.

The chain, cassette and chainrings should be quite clean by step 3, but if they're not maybe use a third jar of solvent and do steps 2 and 3 a second time around. The solvent in the second jar shouldn't get dirtied too much by the chain, but if it does then use a third jar of solvent.

The beauty of this is that you get to re-use the solvent and by immersing the chain in a proper hydrophilic solvent it does a much better job of cleaning it than washing it with soap alone, especially if you don't remove the chain from the bike as there's too many nooks and crannies to get at. You can only better this method if you use an ultrasonic cleaner to 'swirl' the solvent in the jar for you.

You might lose about 40-60ml each time you clean your drivetrain but diesel and spirits are cheap, and losing 40-60ml of solvent to the ground is better than throwing larger quantities of disposable water soluble solvents down the drain, or literally spraying euros into the air with expensive solvent cleaning sprays.

aindriu80

mirv wrote: »

B]The wear is entirely your own fault due to lack of cleaning and maintenance[/B].

Unless you are ready to replace the the chain, cassette and large chainring in one go

I do clean the bike regularly but do use a spray as lube. The lube the LBS put on is not gritty but the spray I use doesn't last long. I never envisaged replacing a cassette due to regular wear. What ever happens to the bike is my own problem, I don't think I am going to change habits.

From what I read it is ok to try out a chain first and then take a look at a cassette. The only problem is the LBS price but I don't expect a decent price in Ireland. I might be safer just getting one off wiggle or chain reaction.

The LBS charged €20 to replace the gear cable but the other LBS quoted the same price. The cheapest way would be to do it yourself but I am not a mechanic. I guess the guy at the LBS is just trying to earn a living.

I was about to post this and then Windows 8.1 preview decided to reboot right before I pressed submit. Thankfully it remembered what I typed here!

NeedMoreGears

aindriu80 wrote: »

The LBS charged €20 to replace the gear cable but the other LBS quoted the same price.

FWIW my local LBS charges €4 for a generic cable and €5 for a fancy Shimano one.

mirv

€20 for a badly installed inner gear cable is awful value.

Enjoy wearing down your second chain! 2% stretch means that your cassette is well past shagged and it'll ruin a new chain.

Just get it indexed and run it as-is until you replace everything in one go, or you'll have a longer headache and wallet-ache than is necessary.

aindriu80

€5 for a new Shimano chain ? Thats pretty cheap. I will have to get something sorted as €30 - €50 seems to much.

I will phone another LBS this morning and get a price to replace all at once.

NeedMoreGears

aindriu80 wrote: »

€5 for a new Shimano chain ? Thats pretty cheap. I will have to get something sorted as €30 - €50 seems to much.

I will phone another LBS this morning and get a price to replace all at once.

The €5 was for a cable. As I mentioned earlier a Shimano chain is about €20 although if I was replacing a chain again I'd go for SRAM because I find them easier to install.

mirv

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Kits.aspx?ModelID=89202

Get a 12-25, 12-26 or 12-27 maybe

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-pro-compact-road-5052t-chainring/

Either bring it to a shop, or buy and learn how to use a cassette tool, chain whip and chain tool. I'm assuming you know how to operate a spanner and allen key. It's really not rocket science to change things up on a road bike, and it's good to learn how to fix simple things and it means that you're less helpless if you encounter any issues on the road.

aindriu80

NeedMoreGears wrote: »

The €5 was for a cable. As I mentioned earlier a Shimano chain is about €20 although if I was replacing a chain again I'd go for SRAM because I find them easier to install.

They did quote me €5 for the cable but said it would cost maybe €20 to get it fitted and the gears working. He did that but not smoothly.

mirv wrote: »

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Kits.aspx?ModelID=89202

Get a 12-25, 12-26 or 12-27 maybe

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-pro-compact-road-5052t-chainring/

Either bring it to a shop, or buy and learn how to use a cassette tool, chain whip and chain tool. I'm assuming you know how to operate a spanner and allen key. It's really not rocket science to change things up on a road bike, and it's good to learn how to fix simple things and it means that you're less helpless if you encounter any issues on the road.

I am not sure what 12-25, 12-26 or 12-27 means. The bike came with :

Cassette: Shimano 105 5700, 12-27, 10-Speed.
Chain: Shimano 105 5700

Its not cheap replacing all those parts.

joxerjohn

Indicates the number of teeth (worn in your case) on the smallest sproket and the biggest sproket of your cassette, 12 teeth and 27 teeth respectivly aka "12-27".

mirv

It's cheaper to keep your drivetrain clean unfortunately! Also, it means that you get to ride a shiny clean bike, which is nice.

aindriu80

does anyone know how many links I should get in the chain ?

I'm looking online to get the parts myself but I can't find the exact part or there is details like number of links in the chain that I don't know. I guess I could get the biggest chain available and get the LBS to measure it to the bike.

I took the bike out for a 40k this morning and the bike felt better when the chain didn't skip but there was only one gear that it doesn't skip.

Keeping the bike shiny is nice but I do have to spray something on it because rust start to appear.

The front chainset is
Chainset: FSA Gossamer Pro BB30, 50/34

I don't want to replace the entire chainset, just replace the biggest gear if needs be. In total it would be 1 new front gear, 1 new chain and 1 new cassette.

mirv

I gave you links for a chain/cassette combo and a front 50t 110bcd chainring earlier.

The chain will be supplied with an excess amount of links - usually 114 or 116 - that you'll have to remove a few links before it's perfect. If you get a mechanic to fit the parts he should do it for you as he fits the rest of the drivechain. Maybe pick up an extra KMC missing link as it's designed for multiple removals rather than the single fitment like the SRAM Powerlock if you wish to clean your chain off the bike.

http://www.wiggle.com/kmc-10-speed-chain-links/ - make sure to get shimano, or buy one from your mechanic and ask him how to use it.

aindriu80

I saw the link thanks but was thinking of sticking to Shimano. The chainring says 50/52T and I think mine is 50/34 ?

I cleaned up the lube the LBS put on and took two pictures left and right of the cassette. I don't think it is in terrible shape.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dn2wqgxs064y3p4/DSC_0056.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7oy6iu131wc5hxu/DSC_0057.jpg

mahoo

Sorry for hijaking this thread but im having problems myself..

I changed the front ring, chain and cassette on my bike recently and now im having problems with the chain hopping whenever i put in a big effort. The gears run smoothly when im in the saddle but if i get out of the saddle and put the power on the chain just hops of the cassette. especially in the small ring. I've taken a link out the chain, tinkered with the rear derailer, made sure cables are running smoothly and its still happening. its driving me mad. im thinking that it could be the rear derailler is slightly out of line at the hanger. i guess this would this cause the gears to hop yes? running out of ideas

aindriu80

sounds like the chain. Get the LBS to make sure you have the right amount of slack on it. Not all gears will work perfectly together but if it hops out it must be the chain.

mirv

That cassette is shagged. The middle cogs are widened on left side of each tooth - the side which gets pulled on by the chain. Note how the largest cogs and smallest cog are less worn as you probably spend less time in those gears. Also if you go back and actually read the description for the item, the page is for a 50/52t chainring, but only a 50t is available for purchase. It says it's 9 speed, but most rings are 9/10s compatible anyway.

Like I said, either run it into the ground or replace everything at once. No-one seems to be able to convince you that you've a worn drivetrain despite 2% stretch measured and visible evidence, so I give up.

aindriu80

I know there is wear and tear on the bike and I am going about replacing the parts but its not cheap so I didn't press any order buttons just yet. The part numbers/sizes don't exactly match what I have at the moment.

The URL you gave me had 9 speed listed and when it doesn't match up 100% I have to hold on it for a bit. My chainring is 50/34. I would like the same again. Plus I was going to go for Shimano.
I spend most of the time on the smallest gears for speed but with hills I have to let up. I can understand that putting my weight on the bike can pull the cassette in all shapes.

aindriu80

Thanks for the posts. I just ordered :

116 Links Silver
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-105-5701-10-speed-chain/

12-27 Silver
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-105-5700-10-speed-cassette/

I went to the LBS this morning and said he shouldn't have taken out the links because of all the skipping/jumping in the gears but he said he had to because there was so much slack it was not safe. He said the chain was in a S shape at the rear derailleur. He showed me his measuring tool and said after .5 or 1 it was time to change the chain. It was gone past 2.

The front derailleur looks too high but he said it could not go lower without causing problems. He tried to fix the skipping but it still skips.. I will just have to wait till the new parts come in.

aindriu80

does anyone know the device that is used to close the chain ? Its not like a regular chain, it has a pin and there is a device to close it.

ford2600

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-compact-chain-tool-ct5/rp-prod7843

aindriu80

cool. are you sure it fits the chain I ordered ?

ford2600

aindriu80 wrote: »

cool. are you sure it fits the chain I ordered ?

Chains are a standard size. You ordered shimano, you could have ordered sram kmc etc.
Shimano use a pin to join, sram a link.
You'll need tool to cut excess links from chain.

Measure twice cut once. Check out park tools site for how to measure. I find wrapping chain around largest cog and largest chain ring, while by passing derailleur, and adding two links the easiest

aindriu80

The bike came with Shimano and I just went with that again. I am happy enough with it but maybe next time go for Sram.
I just ordered the link you gave me because the LBS doesn't have it. He usually does mountain bikes. I hope he has the tool for cutting links, I think he does. That will hopefully do it.

ford2600

aindriu80 wrote: »

The bike came with Shimano and I just went with that again. I am happy enough with it but maybe next time go for Sram.
I just ordered the link you gave me because the LBS doesn't have it. He usually does mountain bikes. I hope he has the tool for cutting links, I think he does. That will hopefully do it.

The tool I linked cuts chain and also joins by pushing pin through.
Really check out park tools site and/or YouTube.

aindriu80

ford2600 wrote: »

The tool I linked cuts chain and also joins by pushing pin through.
Really check out park tools site and/or YouTube.

I took it that it would do the chain I ordered. I will check out youtube.

Kingdom Man

my LBS fitted a new chain, 9 speed cassette and rear brake pads for €80 all in. Seems good value to me?? done 200kms since and bike perfect.

ford2600

Kingdom Man wrote: »

my LBS fitted a new chain, 9 speed cassette and rear brake pads for €80 all in. Seems good value to me?? done 200kms since and bike perfect.

Depends on specification of chain cassette and pads.
At lower end you could get those parts for €35 at higher end pick a figure

aindriu80

So far I spent €20 €40 and €15 before manual labor for chain, cassette and tool. Seems like you got good value but I guess it's about quality.

I will be well set up for my next change, thanks.

aindriu80

The new chain and cassette work great. I will have to give it more time to test. Some squeaking coming from the bike though.

I need new brake pads for the shimano 105. Do you know what and where to get?