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Plough query

  • 28-07-2013 10:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 498 ✭✭


    Just want to know would number 3 (12"inch) boards plough shallow. I want to able to plough 5 or 6 inches. Also does it matter what width a plough is in comparison to the tractor and is it difficult to set a plough. I'm considering buying a cheap 3 furrow conventional plough and don't know much about ploughs. I know lads will say to get a contractor in but I have the time and always fancied doin a bit of ploughing :pac:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    agriman27 wrote: »
    Just want to know would number 3 (12"inch) boards plough shallow. I want to able to plough 5 or 6 inches. Also does it matter what width a plough is in comparison to the tractor and is it difficult to set a plough. I'm considering buying a cheap 3 furrow conventional plough and don't know much about ploughs. I know lads will say to get a contractor in but I have the time and always fancied doin a bit of ploughing :pac:

    Do not buy a plough with number 3 KV boards unless you love hardship.

    Those parts are like hen's teeth now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    fair play to ya for giving it a go.

    what kind of land do you have and how much ploughing are you going to do and for what? Will it be for tillage land (stubble, beet, vegtables etc) or will it be mostly for bane (grassland fields)?

    Regards sizes and stuff what type of tractor and you planning on using? by convential plough i assume you mean non reversible. get yoursself a plough with springs on it. lad i worked with before got one without them a few years a ago and it only lasted a few acres before he hit a rock in the field and snapped off the front of the plough.

    setting up isnt that diffcult but you need to be able to get it level and keep it level. This means adjusting the hieght of the right arm and the lenght and position of the toplink. The 1st run's are the hardest as you will need to set it level and with the tyre on the flat and adjust the arams again to level it once you start with the tyre in the furrow.

    its mostly kernverland and fiskers with the odd lemkem round here so i'd go with one of them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,100 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    If your going ploughing for the first time make sure you understand the hydraulic settings on your tractor and have the draft control working if its an older tractor with top link senseing,
    for setting the plough if you go to a ploughing competition early and watch the lads opening a furrow and changing the settings you would learn a lot but it can be a bit painful as they take ages at it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭grazeaway


    If your going ploughing for the first time make sure you understand the hydraulic settings on your tractor and have the draft control working if its an older tractor with top link senseing,
    for setting the plough if you go to a ploughing competition early and watch the lads opening a furrow and changing the settings you would learn a lot but it can be a bit painful as they take ages at it

    i used to watch my uncle when i was a young fella and he would take ages to get going, pacing out the field and adjusting the arms and top link for the 1st few runs but after that he very seldom have to adjust anything and the furrows were always straight and even. There is a knack to it and the key is to get it right at the start its a right pain trying to sort it out afterwards


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,756 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    What is your budget like and what sort of tractor are you going using? Also what size tyres are on the tractor? No point in having a 12'' plough furrow width if you have 16'' tyres. How many acres are you doing a year?

    Sorry about all the questions, but you might be better off with a reversible plough.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 451 ✭✭Milton09


    agriman27 wrote: »
    Just want to know would number 3 (12"inch) boards plough shallow. I want to able to plough 5 or 6 inches. Also does it matter what width a plough is in comparison to the tractor and is it difficult to set a plough. I'm considering buying a cheap 3 furrow conventional plough and don't know much about ploughs. I know lads will say to get a contractor in but I have the time and always fancied doin a bit of ploughing :pac:

    Have a look at this thread - handy KV guide

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=78041252


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 498 ✭✭agriman27


    I only intend to plough around 20 acres max to reseed grass. My ground is shallow enough not much more topsoil than the sod. Will be putting the plough on MF 4355 which is full 7 foot wide. The tyres are 12-13 inches wide. Was wondering if I got an old plough with good metal would last long and do all I want. Don't really want to spend much on it. But not ploughing to deep is the only way round here many neighbours agree.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,756 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Sorry I have no experience with KV, What sort of ploughs are some of your neighbours using? If they are all using KV with good results, maybe that is the make to go for. 20 acres a year and if it is all for grass you'll need skimmers if you can only go to 6'' depth.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 498 ✭✭agriman27


    None of my neighbours have ploughs always contractor job but in recent years has proven a disaster turning up crap hungry soil. That's why I'm thinking of getting one myself. Must keep skimmers in mind:)


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,756 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    agriman27 wrote: »
    None of my neighbours have ploughs always contractor job but in recent years has proven a disaster turning up crap hungry soil. That's why I'm thinking of getting one myself. Must keep skimmers in mind:)

    Don't forget discs either. Still think you should go reversible for grassland.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Don't forget discs either. Still think you should go reversible for grassland.

    From what point of view, he can always plough the one way instead especially if small fields


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    agriman27 wrote: »
    None of my neighbours have ploughs always contractor job but in recent years has proven a disaster turning up crap hungry soil. That's why I'm thinking of getting one myself. Must keep skimmers in mind:)

    make sure the grass is very bare as if there is a good cover or grass the skimmers i'll start to choke the boards. when plughing grassland make sure your discs are in good condition as the sod will look to turn in one go so you need a good cutting line. we stopped using the ordinary plough for re seeding as the reversible give a much more even finish you would still notice the humps and hollows where the furrows jioned and were not cosed in/out right. closing in the furrows at the headlads and jions properly is very important in grass land fields.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    Reversible ploughs are heavy yokes that would need a lot extra weight on the nose.
    Can't see the extra expense of a reversible paying for itself on 20acres per year.
    Plus a reversible has twice the amount of metal to be wearing out and replacing.

    A one way plough will do what the OP wants just fine.
    The 4255 should manage a 4 sod but might be more comfortable with a three sod. Might be an idea to hold out for a 3+1 phlough and you have spare body if you only use 3 and can bolt the 4th on if you feel like it.

    One thing that is a must when your puttin the phlough away... cover the boards, discs etc with Greece or oil or what ever to make sure it does not rust and when you take it out following year the soil can't flow over the boards and gets bogged up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 498 ✭✭agriman27


    image.jpg what would ye think of this yolk would it do my job:pac: it's in Douglas Hamilton machinery in magherafelt co Derry. I'd say its knockin around a while


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    agriman27 wrote: »
    image.jpg what would ye think of this yolk would it do my job:pac: it's in Douglas Hamilton machinery in magherafelt co Derry. I'd say its knockin around a while

    That would do the job but probably number 3 bodies :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭grazeaway


    agriman27 wrote: »
    image.jpg what would ye think of this yolk would it do my job:pac: it's in Douglas Hamilton machinery in magherafelt co Derry. I'd say its knockin around a while

    looks ok from angle however the toplink frame looks a little light and looks like it got a bit of bending. what are the boards and shoes like for wear?

    are you likly to hit big stones with your shallow soil? if so a heavyier built plogh might be better. last thing you need is a twisted body.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭grazeaway


    49801 wrote: »
    Reversible ploughs are heavy yokes that would need a lot extra weight on the nose.
    Can't see the extra expense of a reversible paying for itself on 20acres per year.
    Plus a reversible has twice the amount of metal to be wearing out and replacing.

    A one way plough will do what the OP wants just fine.
    The 4255 should manage a 4 sod but might be more comfortable with a three sod. Might be an idea to hold out for a 3+1 phlough and you have spare body if you only use 3 and can bolt the 4th on if you feel like it.

    One thing that is a must when your puttin the phlough away... cover the boards, discs etc with Greece or oil or what ever to make sure it does not rust and when you take it out following year the soil can't flow over the boards and gets bogged up.

    but it'll wear out in half the time.

    reversible plough would be hard to justify on 20ac's, and you would need a 4wd and plenty of balast


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