Can't remove pedal - options

jon1981

Hi,

I bought a 2nd hand road (cube attempt) bike that came with the clip in pedals. I haven't used them so decided to take the pedals off for normal pedals. Turns out one of the pedals won't come off, I've tried , the bike mechanic has tried. Any advice on getting it off? I gather if the bike mechanic can't it's a lost cause.

so my option is to replace the chain set or just buy the bike shoes and get use to them. Any advice on the bike clip in shoes , do they take long to get use to?

irishmotorist

Just to be sure, are you (and the mechanic) trying the right way? The drive side unscrews in an orthodox fashion while the non-drive side screws off in the reverse.

If you're sure that you haven't been tightening them by accident, try some WD40 to soak in for a few hours. Also, if you can extend the length of your wrench/allen key, you will get a greater turning force to apply more pressure.

hardCopy

Buying the cleats and shoes is really only a temporary fix. At some point you may need to replace the pedals anyway or just choose a different cleat system.

In the meantime, I wouldn't hesitate to go clipless. By far the most comfortable way to cycle in my experience.

hesker

Did you do a search. It's been discussed lots of times before.

Get a long lever.

I removed a pedal that was stuck solid. It hadn't been removed for over 20 years. Got a 20 foot length of box iron and stuck a spanner in the end. Find a way of clamping the crank arm. If you have a bench vise this is ideal.

There are other methods also.

jon1981

Hi,

I'm pretty sure I've been trying the right way. It's the right pedal (if you were sitting on the bike). turning the key anti clockwise towards the back wheel. I can only hope the bike mechanic would not make the mistake. He had a very long armed wrench. To be honest when I bought it I never noticed that the pedal nut was already rounded, so not sure what the guy who owned it before me was doing.

Not sure what to do now as a new chain set (€160) would probably set me back as much as the cleats and shoes.

jon1981

hardCopy wrote: »

Buying the cleats and shoes is really only a temporary fix. At some point you may need to replace the pedals anyway or just choose a different cleat system.

very valid point, the existing pedals are basic enough and chances are I will want to change them should they suffer a fault also. Damn expense I didn't need.

ford2600

hesker wrote: »

Did you do a search. It's been discussed lots of times before.

Get a long lever.

I removed a pedal that was stuck solid. It hadn't been removed for over 20 years. Got a 20 foot length of box iron and stuck a spanner in the end. Find a way of clamping the crank arm. If you have a bench vise this is ideal.

There are other methods also.

A friend of mine has a vintage tractor in mint condition. Two years ago it was in a shed with no roof and a tree growing up through engine block.
Needless to say engine was seized. It hadn't moved in over twenty years.
Every day for a few weeks he poured in a little penetrating oil and apply lever to crank.
One day it turned. ...
The lever is your friend and so is oil.

Also get shoes. Practice while stopped and off you go.

Shoes will give you time for the oil!

Surveyor11

I had a nightmare over the weekend with a new bike - the Wellgo pedals were incompatible with my cleats, so wanted to install my SPDs in their place. A simple job I thought - 4 hours later I managed to shift a stuck pedal!

First - always loosen (whether it's allen key / nut) towards the back of the bike - regardless of which side you're on. Then you're turning the right way. Leverage is important - you're not going to shift a stuck pedal with a small allen key / spanner. I used a wrench that I could fix a 6mm allen key fixing to - gave excellent leverage.

In the end, I had to use brute force with a mallet - I fitted a slightly smaller spanner to the pedal (which has not become knurled from my efforts) and used a rubber mallet to tap it. It eventually came loose, but obviously need to be careful not to damage anything else in the process.

Second - always, always use grease when reaffixing the pedals. This will prevent them becoming stuck in the future and make future replacements easier.

hardCopy

If you buy the shoes you'll probably still end up needing a new crankset eventually.

If you buy a new crankset you may never decide to switch to a clipless system.

Either way you may end up buying both eventually but if you buy the crankset first there's a chance you could continue indefinitely on flats and never need the shoes. (I would still recommend going clipless and getting the shoes at some point)

jon1981

I might try the cycle superstore in dublin to see if they have more tricks. I don't want to insult the guy i left it into by implying he is wrong.
Also I don't have the tools necessary to do it myself and I don't want to waste more money by buying them and not succeeding.

Zyzz

Some pedals need a huge amount of force to get off. Chuck on a lot of WD40 aswel..helped with mine!

Brian?

Penetrating oil/wd40 and a really long lever. Simples

countrykid

Gentle heat from one of those home style cooking blow torchs applied from the back of the crank arm for a few minutes on the head of the protruding axel... I repeat... Gentle!!!
P.s watch out for the crank sets teeth when it does release!!!!!!

derealbadger

Cant believe nobody has given the most obvious answer and no perspiration required
NEW BIKE if that does not sort it then you are goosed

rollingscone

derealbadger wrote: »

Cant believe nobody has given the most obvious answer and no perspiration required
NEW BIKE if that does not sort it then you are goosed

No perspiration, unless you're married.

furiousox

There is a way of removing them....but it's an utter utter last resort and involves angle grinders and will mean sacrificing the pedals.
Firstly you need to remove the crank from the bike, then (one at a time) wrap the crank arms in a protective cloth and put them in a bench vice, tight but not too tight!
Introduce your angle grinder and cut the pedal off at the spindle leaving the nut (where you would put the pedal spanner) attached to the crank.
Remove crank from vice.
Put remaining nut in vice, tighten vice and rotate crank arm (make sure you rotate in right direction, loosen not tighten)
The leverage of the crank along with the rigidity of the vice will release what's left of the pedal.
It's extreme but it will work, any iron-works or steel yard will do it for you.
As I said, last resort.

jon1981

furiousox wrote: »

There is a way of removing them....but it's an utter utter last resort and involves angle grinders and will mean sacrificing the pedals.
Firstly you need to remove the crank from the bike, then (one at a time) wrap the crank arms in a protective cloth and put them in a bench vice, tight but not too tight!
Introduce your angle grinder and cut the pedal off at the spindle leaving the nut (where you would put the pedal spanner) attached to the crank.
Remove crank from vice.
Put remaining nut in vice, tighten vice and rotate crank arm (make sure you rotate in right direction, loosen not tighten)
The leverage of the crank along with the rigidity of the vice will release what's left of the pedal.
It's extreme but it will work, any iron-works or steel yard will do it for you.
As I said, last resort.

while extreme, i'd favour this over having to fork out 250 euro for a new chainset/crankset. I left it in with another place to see if they can get it off, if not i might have to resort to these measures.

feck sake lads

eh hang on lads, simple way is the law of the leaver but it has to be used in a jerking action a few quick jerks and bobs your uncle.;)

donegaldude

I changed my pedals recently, the old one on one side was solid seized. Was binning the pedals so I cut it off then putting stump of pedal into a vice and a bit of leverage, came off handy enough