02 corsa c 1 litre chugging randomly

canhefixit

Car which is a 1l corsa c has started chugging randomly while driving, I scanned for codes and none are stored but I did scan as soon as it started chugging and it threw up crank sensor code but im thinking it threw that up due to the engine chugging as it clears itself again once driving smoothly again..

One other thing its doing is when car is started it sometimes wont idle as low as it should when warmed up, it keeps itself on the higher idle rev as if engine is cold if i am explaining that clear enough..

Air filter and spark plugs are new and I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF, cant think what is making the car drive rough tbh, anyone any ideas?

Might replace the crank sensor see if that makes a difference?

biko

MAF and TB would be my first guesses too but since you've done those...
Maybe toss some fuel injector cleaner in there?
Although the high idle on startup would indicate a sensor, unless it's just the choke giving it a richer mix on startup.
I'd give it a full bottle of Dipetane and one of Redex injector cleaner and do an Italian tuneup driving job first, see if you can clear that cough.

Pj!

EGR?

irelandspurs

Ht leads?

studdlymurphy

Fuel Filter?

shamwari

What exactly was the crank sensor code? The crank sensors in those things are known to be weak. If the code says crank sensor then check its connections and replace it if they're good.

Why on earth would a MAF, EGR or throttle body throw a crank sensor fault code?

studdlymurphy

shamwari wrote: »

Why on earth would a MAF, EGR or throttle body throw a crank sensor fault code?

The idea is the crank sensor error is being caused by the chugging not the other way round

keithsfleet

What year is the car?
Check the air intake pipes, they can perish and crack usually in the most awkward place to check.

Failing that I'd look at the throttle position sensor and the connector. The connectors on the female and male side can fade, a tiny bit of wire stuck in when reconnecting will increase connectivity between the tps and loom and stop the chugging/hesitation.

shamwari

studdlymurphy wrote: »

The idea is the crank sensor error is being caused by the chugging not the other way round

If another component other than the crank sensor was causing the chugging then the code reported would related to that component OR a misfire code would be flagged. In this case the strong likelihood is the crank sensor code is directly related the cause, not the effect of it!

canhefixit

OK lads car still chugging away randomly and sitting on a high idle still, again still no codes logged but what I did find on the coil pack was on the rubber insulation cover on coil 3 there is a slice in the rubber were if i bend it a bit i can see the spring through it, question is though would that cause the car to chugg and sit on a high idle? The car sometimes does revert to a low idle while at a stop and sometimes it conks out and the takes quite a few turns to get going again so its as if the car knows it news to sit on higher rev to keep going.

Is there a way to check the coils are working right if I could check this at least I could rule out spark issue as new plugs are in the car too.

Cheers

Muckie

Old trick years ago was watered washing up liquid, sprayed over the HT leads.

With the car running.

Using one of those bottles that spray a fine mist.(old cleaning bottle)

Only a small bit now.

If you see sparks, theirs your fault. Hope that helps.

canhefixit

Muckie wrote: »

Old trick years ago was watered washing up liquid, sprayed over the HT leads.

With the car running.

Using one of those bottles that spray a fine mist.(old cleaning bottle)

Only a small bit now.

If you see sparks, theirs your fault. Hope that helps.

Would this work and is it safe to spray on the coils themselves?

biko

Yeah it's fine. It's an old school trick and can be used for all kinds of things.
For instance to check for vacuum leaks (revs will change when you spray the hose crack).
Don't go overboard with the spraying though, no need to immerse the packs.

canhefixit

biko wrote: »

Yeah it's fine. It's an old school trick and can be used for all kinds of things.
For instance to check for vacuum leaks (revs will change when you spray the hose crack).
Don't go overboard with the spraying though, no need to immerse the packs.

Grand so ill take out the coil pack and spray lightly over them, if there any sparking then it basically needs replaced?

biko

Yeah that's it. If rev sound change or you see sparks you know which one it is.

canhefixit

Right lads tried the spray method and no difference in rev at all, also tried the dipentine and injector cleaner and to no avail, car was being drove today and chugging got really bad all of a sudden and when at a stop was idling very very rough, again scanned for codes and nothing showing only the crank sensor but i think thats just showing due to the poor idle/chugging from the engine...

Im thinking maybe the coil pack now is there any way to test if its working correctly? Or maybe the fuel sender in the tank can that be tested some way?

cheers

canhefixit

Ok bit of a follow on post from one I posted a week or so ago about a 02 corsa c 1 litre having some engine problems, it was chugging badly randomly when being drove and when at lights etc would sometimes just die and take a few turns to get going again.

All the time I had been scanning car and no codes showing until yesterday i got P0300 and P0303 misfire cylinder 3

To date I have changed air filter, cleaned maf, replaced coil pack, replaced crank sensor, replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body, today I checked injectors were spraying and all were spraying fine, I checked all pipes and no leaks or loose connections anywhere.

The engine isn't chugging as much and is driving fine but it is ticking over fairly roughly and dosen't sound great, what else could be the problem be?

Ded_Zebra

I would look for a vacuum leak around the intake runner for the number 3 cylinder next. With the car idling spray the area with some water from a spray bottle and listen for a change in engine note.

biko

No offence OP but it's better to have all discussion about one car in the same thread so people can read about what was done, what advice was given etc.
Merged with earlier thread.

shamwari

canhefixit wrote: »

The engine isn't chugging as much and is driving fine but it is ticking over fairly roughly and dosen't sound great, what else could be the problem be?

Is the timing chain ok? They sound very rattly at idle when the chain goes loose.

canhefixit

When engine is idling there does sound like there is a puffing kind of sound which would indicate air escaping somewhere but ive sprayed soapy water all over and engine dosent react at all.

When I scan now im getting a new code P1300 which from looking up online is a circuit malfunction, what would be the problem with it or would the p1300 be as a result of the misfiring?

Would it be any use taking of the rocker cover would I be able to see any more in terms of damaged intakes etc? If I did do that would I need to replace the rocker cover gasket or can it be reused again?

Cheers for all the help so far lads as this has my head cracked!

Hopefully some experienced mechanics such as Nissan Doc, George or DGT get reading this and know straight away whats wrong!

jeemojney

I have a '00 Primera same symptoms, changed same stuff as you, turned out timing chain was stretched, not sure if yours has chain or belt

canhefixit

OK so yesterday I took off throttle body and air pipes and cleaned all again, again checked for cracks pipes etc and none to be found.

When car is being driven it is fine no loss of power or anything its just when ticking over idle, now I know these engines are naturally noisy but he noise is like a puffing sound while idling and the revs on the rev under always drown and the car nearly conks then it comes back again only to keep repeating.

Would I be as well to have a pressure test done? That way I can maybe rule out if the timing chain has stretched and the timing is of hence the puffing noise?

canhefixit

ok lads had wet and dry compression test done and thankfully compression is normal for engine...

getting random eml codes now misfire codes and cranck codes...cant figure out whats wrong have doubled checked all i have checked previous this one has me snookered