Royal Canal by Bike

Red Kev

Cycled from Cloondara to Dublin on Wednesday and Thursday last week. Have to say it's a stunning trip by bike, very beautiful, very isolated, some of it looks literally untouched. I did it in 16 hours spread over the two days but that included stopping for pints, food, photos etc.

Surfaces vary from perfect tarmac, through hard sand to good cart tracks, bog tracks and down to badly rutted boneshaking grass tracks. I did it in a standard touring bike but at times was crying out for front suspension forks. Tyres were Schwalbe Marathon and I only had one puncture which was ironically on a tarrred stretch.

There are passages where ruts from tractors have been baked rock hard but at a different time it would be deep mud. The ca. 20 km stretch from Coolnahay west of Mullingar to near The Downs east of Mullingar is a perfect example of what the canal could be like, excellent surface and it was easily the most widely used part of the route, walkers, joggers, cyclists all out enjoying the sun.

The worst stretches were between Enfield and 17th lock near Kilcock and to the west of Ballymahon. Some of the track near Coolmine station is still narrow, bumpy and dangerous with a big drop into the canal, this is where the track in on the south side of the canal, further west where its is on the north it has been widened out. Moyvalley to Enfield is rough with protruding tree roots but very beautiful nonetheless.

I met 3 Korean lads on bikes and apart from one or two locals theye were the only cyclists/walkers I met along the whole track. I changed sides regularly always following the Royal Canal Way signs but the Ordnance Survey maps are also accurate. I had some detailed notes but either lost or left the notebook near the 12th Lock .

There are stiles where it's impossible to get the bike with panniers through and where the gate is chained so the bike has to be lifted over the gate, I thnk there were 11 of these in total and they seemed to come in bunches. Track was clear enough, seemed to be mowed in a lot of places and there were few places where brambles protruded.

A few towns on the way, quite a few within a couple of KM cycle of the canal. Cycling from the west the towns and villages you go through are:

Cloondara: pub but doesn't seem to have a shop, there's a shop in Tarmonbarry.
Abbeyshrule: pub & restaurant but didn't find a shop
Ballinagarrigy: shop, chipper (YAY!!) pubs
Mullingar: everything
The Downs: where the canal meets the N4 is Mary Lynch's pub, open in the evening but I've passed it in the day and it's been shut, need to check opening hours, signs say they do B&B but i'd ring and check.
Thomastown: Nancy Quinn's pub, unsure of opening hours
Hill of Down: pub, unsure of opening hours
Moyvalley: Furey's pub, I often pass it on the N4 and it seems to be open at lunch, not sure of opening hours.
Enfield; pubs & shops
Kilcock: pubs & shops, bike repair in a yard off Bridge St.

..........after this your never far from a shop or pub.

Camped beside the 26th lock, no hassles, very quiet even though there are a lot of fishermen there normally.

Overall I'd recommend it highly but after rain stretches are muddy, some stretches are very bumpy, if I was doing it again I'd use front suspension forks but it can be done without, I suppose the ground is as hard in this present heatwave as it will ever be. Some of the cart tracks have big potholes which is annoying as you can't look around and I had no hassle from farmers or anyone else. Just remeber that you might have to lift the bikes over gates at times. You might also consider doing a day trip to Mullingar and the train back or something similar.

It's a route that could be improved to be an excellent cycling track with very little money, I think 40% is already good tar or sand path, 20% good paths, 20% cart tracks that can be easily upgraded and 20% wilderness, but as it's all in state hands there is no reason why this superb asset can't be fully exploited.

bovis

Hi Red Kev,

Great to hear of your journey. I have cycled and canoed much of that route and like yourself (it seems) I was blown away by the peacefulness and stunning nature on this fantastic amenity.

Just to note that there are major plans to develop the royal canal from Dublin to Mullingar as part of a national greenway all the way from Dublin to Galway. Many of the problem areas you mentioned are already earmarked for improvements. Its a large project though (30M Euro) and it will take some effort to get all the stakeholders to move forward.

As a suggestion, if you really like this initiative get on to Leo Varadkar and Waterways Ireland and tell them that this is a well needed project. Both the Minister and Waterways Ireland are fully behind the project but any encouragement from the public would help in my opinion

Red Kev

Hi Bovis

Waterways ireland are supposedly in favour of turning the towpaths into walk/cycleways, Varadker has asked the NRA to look into it, they are possibly the worst people in the country to do this.

Both Varadker and Eamon Ryan were on the radio recently talking about this, both of them seem fixated on the idea of a route Dublin-Mullingar-Athlone Galway. There is no mention of doing the bleedin obvious which to me is to turn the whole of the Royal (and Grand) into a cycleway, why do just 50% of it.

You can build the Royal Canal (and the Longford Branch), arrive at the Shannon, there are quiet roads on to Strokestown and further to Frenchpark, a bit busy to Ballaghdereen, but after the bypass there is built you will have only local traffic as far as Charlestown (where there is a possible link up to the Tuam-Coolooney-Enniskillen line) and then quiet roads through Pontoon onto the Western Greenway near Newport. It's a good way to spread tourism around the country instead of concentrating it in existing tourist hot spots.

They seem to be going to the expense of doing up 55km of the old Mullingar-Athlone railway when the Royal Canal passes within 12 miles of Athlone, now I don't have any objections to doing up that railway but why do this at the expense of tourism in the north west. There is also no provision given to where the route goes after Athlone, it seems that they want to just turn the hard shoulder of the old N6 into a cyclepath which to be fair is useless, it's still a very busy road.

An alternative could be to pave the Grand Canal to Shannon Harbour, build a 140m foot and cycle bridge over the Shannon and take the route of the old canal up to Ballinasloe, or else follow along the existing railway from Athlone to Galway.

I'm personally in favour of doing up all disused canals, including the Barrow, the railways e.g Tuam to Collooney and on to Enniskillen, West Clare, Valentia, (there are many more), in fact I think there should be one along the full length of the Shannon as well, some of it already has canals and embankments in place.

But if Varadkers response is to get the NRA to just write another report and do a half job on one project then I fear that it will come to nothing.

bovis

Hi Red Kev,

I agree with many of your points and personally I'd love to see the section of the Royal Canal west of Mullingar getting an investment. And I also agree that there are many uncertainties particularly about the section from Athlone to Galway where there is no public land. In my opinion a really great intermediate plan would be to have a greenway all the way to Clondra on the Shannon and with some type of link between Clondra and Athlone (maybe a boat link or a signed cycleway on the roads either side of Lough Ree). Then cyclist/walkers could return on the NRA proposed greenway from Athlone to Dublin (lets call it the "Auld triangle"!).

I am no expert in the merits or otherwise of the NRA so I cant comment on their involvement. But it looks like their plans for the Royal may actual happen if all this planning and tendering is anything to go by.

http://www.mytenders.ie/search/show/search_view.aspx?ID=MAY407376&catID=69
http://kildare.ie/CountyCouncil/PressReleasesAdverts/Part8CyclepathCanalHarbourMaynooth.html
http://www.meath.ie/CountyCouncil/NewsandEvents/Name,52717,en.html

Great points Red Kev! And thanks for raising this great topic!!

P.S. Forgot to say that I also really like the idea of linking up the Royal Canal to the Mayo Greenway via the route you mentioned. I am not familiar with the route west of Strokestown but I think that would be absolutely amazing greenway!

Red Kev

I don't trust the NRA to do a good job on it as in my own experience Bovis as they have a poor record when it comes to cycling infrastructure in general. The fact that they don't seem to have a coherent plan to take the route from Athlone to Galway is a case in point.

I was aware of the tenders, the only county that I have seen on the route where an actively good surface exists is around Mullingar in Co. Westmeath and they are doing construction work near The Downs at the monent. My only worry is substandard work being carried out especially on non tarred stretches. A good quality dust/sand/grit surface is fine in every way, but a badly done one breaks up and becomes potholed very quickly. Fingers crossed.

The route west of Strokestown becomes more interesting when you realise that a 35km bypass is to be built from Scramogue (4km east of Strokestown) to Ballaghdereen. The planning has been suspended for the moment but the preferred route has been decided on and it goes through a greenfield site, approximately 5 km north of the existing N5.

This is expected to be a standard wide N road, so why do they not set an example and build a dedicated cycle/pathway along this new route but separated form the new road by a margin of a couple of metres.

Alternatively an existing route would be Strokestown, Elphin, Frenchpark via Cloonshanville Bog and then some backroads into Ballaghdereen (the N5 is busy and narrow here). Diversions are possible as well to Rathcroghan and Kilglass.

HappyNoel

Does anyone know what stage the development of the towpath into a cycleway is at?

bovis

As you probably know, there is a good surface between the City and Ashtown and again between the 2 Leixlip stations and also for a couple of miles on the eastern side of Maynooth harbour. And again around Mullingar town. The rest is rough surface.

Work was completed on the section between Porterstown bridge and Clonsilla late last year. Some people have complained about the surface and the steep/unprotected drops. But its a great improvement in my opinion.

Work has started on the Ashtown to Castleknock section. Looks like most of the ground work is done. Surfacing is underway. Should be ready as planned in Feb.

As far as I know, the section between Maynooth harbour and the kildare/meath border and the meath section to Mullingar is still in planning.

HappyNoel wrote: »

Does anyone know what stage the development of the towpath into a cycleway is at?

HappyNoel

Great, thanks bovis. Had cycled the entire canal back in April 2012 but was wondering if some of it had been improved since then. Hopefully the section from Maynooth on will be approved soon.

Did the Barrow and Grand Canal last summer, great cycle, in need of improvements in many places though.

smacl

HappyNoel wrote: »

Great, thanks bovis. Had cycled the entire canal back in April 2012 but was wondering if some of it had been improved since then. Hopefully the section from Maynooth on will be approved soon.

Did the Barrow and Grand Canal last summer, great cycle, in need of improvements in many places though.

I'd be interested in doing some of the Barrow route myself this year. What were your start and finishing points?

HappyNoel

Got train to Thomastown, cut across to Graiguenamanagh and then cycled down to St. Mullins to start the towpath proper. Got as far as Carlow first day but it was lashing so called it a day when I got there. Good cycle, very scenic but grassy towpath in many places - ended up getting a puncture near Carlow.

Second day left Carlow, headed up to Athy, joined the link to the Grand Canal and after about 4 hours hard cycling arrived at Lowtown in Kildare, joining the Grand Canal proper. Headed west from there to Tullamore - wonderful open countryside, hard to believe it was so scenic in the midlands.

Third day was Tullamore to Shannon Harbour and from then home to Ennis by road. I could have camped but after a day in the saddle a shower and dinner are wonderful (especially if it was lashing rain all day).

Definitely would do it again - if there's any sense in Government they'll upgrade the towpaths to proper gravelled paths for ease of access it would be great. Some parts of the route are already gravelled, some aren't (as seen below). Just fill in the blanks.

dewindygap

Hello all. At last have got it (almost) together to complete a longtime ambition, follow the route of the Royal and Grand canals from Dublin/Shannon/Dublin. I have been following the various threads on this over the past few years so I am aware of the shortcomings of the tow-paths etc but before we leave (my wife and I), I just have a few questions.
Our starting point will be Blanchardstown, westward via the Royal and home via the Grand and will be using road bikes. I have the routes there and back more or less worked out using map-my-ride and have realised almost half of it will be on-road because judging by the satellite view a lot of the tow-path is impassable or overgrown.
So I was hoping some of you might give me a more up to date status on what is navigable (on road bike) and what is not.
Thanks in advance.

RebelButtMunch

dewindygap wrote: »

Hello all. At last have got it (almost) together to complete a longtime ambition, follow the route of the Royal and Grand canals from Dublin/Shannon/Dublin. I have been following the various threads on this over the past few years so I am aware of the shortcomings of the tow-paths etc but before we leave (my wife and I), I just have a few questions.
Our starting point will be Blanchardstown, westward via the Royal and home via the Grand and will be using road bikes. I have the routes there and back more or less worked out using map-my-ride and have realised almost half of it will be on-road because judging by the satellite view a lot of the tow-path is impassable or overgrown.
So I was hoping some of you might give me a more up to date status on what is navigable (on road bike) and what is not.
Thanks in advance.

A couple of years ago I did the grand canal. 99% on the tow path. I had a mountain bike though.

Red Kev

dewindygap wrote: »

Hello all. At last have got it (almost) together to complete a longtime ambition, follow the route of the Royal and Grand canals from Dublin/Shannon/Dublin. I have been following the various threads on this over the past few years so I am aware of the shortcomings of the tow-paths etc but before we leave (my wife and I), I just have a few questions.
Our starting point will be Blanchardstown, westward via the Royal and home via the Grand and will be using road bikes. I have the routes there and back more or less worked out using map-my-ride and have realised almost half of it will be on-road because judging by the satellite view a lot of the tow-path is impassable or overgrown.
So I was hoping some of you might give me a more up to date status on what is navigable (on road bike) and what is not.
Thanks in advance.

I did the Royal and Grand Canal last summer on bikes, every bit of it on the towpath. In summer Irish Waterways keep the towpaths mowed, so it's a bit easier to cycle on. Ring them to ask them when they start to mow them.

I think overall about 70% road or rough track that's easily passable and maybe 30% on mown grass that's easily passable but a bit tough on the legs after a while. I camped along the canal, very peaceful and no bother finding a place to camp.

I also did it during and after the spell of hot weather last July, some spots are probably very muddy when wet but I didn't encounter this.

Go for it and enjoy it, one off the best trips in Ireland.

Dizraeligears

I ride the canal regularly from Clondra to Ballymahon.Would love to do a longer trip sometime,possibly take train to Maynooth and head back from there.I'd prefer an mtb over a road bike though,lots of heavy sections that a road bike could struggle on especially in the wet.Stick the fattest tyres you can get away with on your road bikes.And +1 to all say its a magical way to see the country!

billyhead

I would be intetested in doing this route this summer aswell from Dublin to Longford. Are there B&Bs guest houses on the route?

Alek

Is there a map showing the dreaded bicycle gates for both canals (Grand + Royal)? I am planning to cycle both with a child trailer and do not fancy lifting it over the gates.

(cycled from Castleknock to Drumcondra today... the surface is great, but gates get on my nerves...)

Alek

True, it is currently closed between 12th lock and Ashtown due to resurfacing.

Red Kev

Alek wrote: »

Is there a map showing the dreaded bicycle gates for both canals (Grand + Royal)? I am planning to cycle both with a child trailer and do not fancy lifting it over the gates.

(cycled from Clonsilla to Drumcondra today... the surface is great, but gates get on my nerves...)

There are about 11 on the Royal, less on the Grand. They come in bunches, then for a long long way there are none. I had a bike with panniers, had to lift it over the older semi-circular ones. Yes, it's a real pain in the backside.

RebelButtMunch

Alek wrote: »

Is there a map showing the dreaded bicycle gates for both canals (Grand + Royal)? I am planning to cycle both with a child trailer and do not fancy lifting it over the gates.

(cycled from Clonsilla to Drumcondra today... the surface is great, but gates get on my nerves...)

Will there be a child in it?

Alek

Let me think... well, yes.


I have cycled from Castleknock to Leixlip this evening and the path seems quite dangerous at times.... especially on road slicks. It was a real cyclocross experience here and there Only one gate though, at Leixlip second train station.

Came back home by Grand Canal from Lucan, kinda boring and gates everywhere. Will explore further on the next occasion.

RebelButtMunch

Alek wrote: »

Let me think... well, yes.


I have cycled from Castleknock to Leixlip this evening and the path seems quite dangerous at times.... especially on road slicks. It was a real cyclocross experience here and there Only one gate though, at Leixlip second train station.

Came back home by Grand Canal from Lucan, kinda boring and gates everywhere. Will explore further on the next occasion.

Ok. The path past hazel hatch can be extremely rutted and bumpy. It wouldn't be much fun in a trailer.

strangel00p

Anyone know when the Castleknock/Ashtown canal work is due to be finished, it's been closed for months.

useeme

strangel00p wrote: »

Anyone know when the Castleknock/Ashtown canal work is due to be finished, it's been closed for months.

I cycled on it last night. The barriers at the castleknock end were fixed very poorly and i pulled my bike underneath.Its only a hardcore surface so still not finished. Not suitable for a road bike. I was on my hybrid.

strangel00p

General Motors wrote: »

I cycled on it last night. The barriers at the castleknock end were fixed very poorly and i pulled my bike underneath.Its only a hardcore surface so still not finished. Not suitable for a road bike. I was on my hybrid.

cheers, what are the barriers like on the Ashtown side, easy to get through?

budgemook

I cycled from rathoat road entrance to westmeath yesterday. There was a barrier at the m50 but it looked someone had thrown it aside.

Overall the terrain down to westmeath is very mixed. From around 12th lock to Coolmine it's like a forrest trail, from kilcock to Enfield is like a field, very little track at all.

Everything else ranges from grassy country boreen to near enough a back country road.

Lovely cycle with lovely views and wildlife but bring a mountain bike and spare tubes. A puncture each and a broken pump meant we called it a day at Thomastown (Nanny Quinn's pub and restaurant), took a lift to Mullingar and got the train home. The hybrid doesn't really cut it.

murphyebass

I've cycled from the coolmine section to the 12th lock section on a few occasions but always found it quite tight. Does it open up at different sections?
Cheers.

01Surveyor

First canal spin of 2015 yesterday.

I left Grand Canal Harbour late (0930) due to taking a header down the stairs into our basement before leaving......damn cycling shoes!! I headed for Hazlehatch into the teeth of a Westerly gale. The spin to the 12th lock was mind numbingly boring as usual, though I have never seen so many swans on the canal. The towpath hedgerows and trees were festooned with litter form the overflowing bins which dont seem to have been emptied for weeks. Sections of the towpath are officially closed due to works on the services below the path. However there is no problem bypassing the barriers as everyone is doing.
From the 12th to Hazlehatch via Gollierstown was as wonderful as ever though parts of the towpath are muddy and messy but its easily passable on a mountain bike. The approach to Hazlehatch is probably the worst.
I was knackered from battling the wind and so didnt carry on to the Lyons Estate as usual, but instead cut across form Hazlehatch to Maynooth via Celbridge and got onto the Royal there. The spin from Maynooth to Leixlip was lovely with the Pike Harbour works now complete.Leixlip to the start of the Deep Sinking was also very nice. The first section of the Deep Sinking was fine but the second and third sections were very slippery and the roots seemed to be worse but it is passable with care. I had to moderate my speed in deference to walkers and had one minor fall due to lack of momentum. Beware the drains (I think) that have erodes 3 or 4 sections of the path in the last section as the breaches in the path have got quite a bit bigger and you have to ride up on the ditch to get by. From the 12th lock to Phibsborough is unchanged though the Ratoath Road bridge works mean the road is closed and you can cycle straight across and back onto the towpath.

All in all an enjoyable, if slow spin (it took four hours!) with a lot more cyclists evident on the canals which cant be bad.