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Kero Tank and Burner move

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  • 19-07-2013 3:27pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,080 ✭✭✭


    About to get some quotes on some work:
    1. Turn the tank so it takes up less garden space
    2. Move the burner adjacent to the house, so I don't have nice warm grass again this Winter :p.

    The tank and burner will be about 40ft apart when the work is complete.

    2 Questions:
    What ballpark should I be in quotes?
    Is is worth upgrading the burner at the same time to a high eff one, it's a 10yr old Bluebird 90/120?

    Thanks in advance

    BB


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    BeepBeep67 wrote: »
    About to get some quotes on some work:
    1. Turn the tank so it takes up less garden space
    2. Move the burner adjacent to the house, so I don't have nice warm grass again this Winter :p.

    The tank and burner will be about 40ft apart when the work is complete.

    2 Questions:
    What ballpark should I be in quotes?
    Is is worth upgrading the burner at the same time to a high eff one, it's a 10yr old Bluebird 90/120?

    Thanks in advance

    BB
    If you could open the cleaning door of the boiler and take a few photo of the baffles / plates on the inside I'll tell you if you have a good standard new design of boiler or the old ineificient type, you see they changed the design about 2002

    Do you mean a FIREBIRD boiler, take pics anyway, and I'll tell you.

    Condensing boilers are best,
    Good standard type are good,
    Old type are crap


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,080 ✭✭✭BeepBeep67


    9322528476_737eddd64d_c.jpg
    9322529526_9acab026be_c.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Open the top. If it only has big square flat plates on the inside, change it ( crap type) very ineificient.
    BUT If it has a water panel in the centre and two set's plates on either side it's not such a bad boiler as standard boilers go.
    I forgot to mentione that warmflow use to use the name Bluebird on my first reply.


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