Help me spend my money!

Ded_Zebra

So I finally have a bit of money to spend on detailing stuff.

Now I want to get a snow foam lance, snow foam, I need new shampoo and clay too.

These are the things that I'm planning to get:

http://www.detailingshed.com/pre-wash-washing/71-snow-foam-lance.html
http://www.detailingshed.com/shampoo-snowfoam/27-cotton-candy-snowfoam.html
http://www.detailingshed.com/detailing-clay/142-blit-hamber-auto-clay-regular.html
http://www.detailingshed.com/shampoo-snowfoam/181-orchard-autocare-bramley-bubble-bath-.html

I'm looking to spend up to about another 55.

So what do you all think of what i've picked so far and any recommendations for other products or to replace what I've picked would be appreciated

Curran

I've sent you something that might help!

Curran

Iron Cleanse would be a great recommendation for pre-claying preparation!!

Have you got some tar remover, or maybe a hand polish!
Assuming you have some sort of protection - wax / sealant?

Ded_Zebra

Well I'm using AG EGP at the moment and am fairly happy with is for my daily driver (white) but I may get a wax for cars with colour because I've heard it looks better on them than a sealant.

Iron cleanse might be interesting, what is the difference between Iron cleanse and wheel cleanse?

Curran

Iron Cleanse is an iron particle remover....can be used on both paint work and wheels
Wheel Cleanse is just a heavy dirt and brake dust remover, only for wheels, obviously!

Iron Cleanse used on the paintwork, pre-claying, makes a massive difference. Less contamination and no gritty feel when claying - saves you time in the long run too!

Ded_Zebra

Curran wrote: »

Iron Cleanse is an iron particle remover....can be used on both paint work and wheels
Wheel Cleanse is just a heavy dirt and brake dust remover, only for wheels, obviously!

Iron Cleanse used on the paintwork, pre-claying, makes a massive difference. Less contamination and no gritty feel when claying - saves you time in the long run too!

So wheel cleanse has no "Iron X effect" then?

Curran

No Wheel Cleanse does not have any "Iron Cleanse" effect!

Nor "Iron X" effect!

Iron Cleanse is the same type of product as Iron X, but is better than it, IMO, and Im sure a few will back that up!

Ded_Zebra

Curran wrote: »

No Wheel Cleanse does not have any "Iron Cleanse" effect!

Nor "Iron X" effect!

Iron Cleanse is the same type of product as Iron X, but is better than it, IMO, and Im sure a few will back that up!

OK thanks for clearing that all up for me The connection I made was something like Iron particles - brake dust - wheels - wheel cleanse roughly = Iron cleanse

Anything else I should consider?

Curran

A microfiber drying towel??

Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy is a brilliant towel - will easily dry a car the size of an A6, 5 Series, etc!

And another Orchard Autocare product which is a favourite product of mine....Perfection - does exactly what it says on the tin!
Spray on, buff off, gives a deeper shine and gloss, guaranteed to work on any other product thats been applied to the car already - works on paint, glass and plastic trim, pretty much everywhere - dead handy!

MetzgerMeister

When using perfection on glass with a microfibre, does it not leave streaks like a microfibre normally would on glass?

DZ - If you're going to bother claying then you really should use Iron Cleanse beforehand. It's nearly like (but not as bad as) waxing without claying if you don't.

Ded_Zebra

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

When using perfection on glass with a microfibre, does it not leave streaks like a microfibre normally would on glass?

DZ - If you're going to bother claying then you really should use Iron Cleanse beforehand. It's nearly like (but not as bad as) waxing without claying if you don't.

I am learning and trying my best, I'll give iron cleanse a go.

However at the moment feel like it is a bit of a snake oil kind of thing. I can't find any source that tells the chemistry behind a fall out remover. I suspect that it is just a detergent who's Ph changes as it reacts with something on the paint. I think that it also contains an indicator (possibly Phenolphthalein becouse of the change form colorless to purple). I don't argue that it doesn't remove contamination from the paint surface but I certainly don't think it opens up the surface of the paint and takes out the iron particles. In other words I don't think it removes anything that the clay wouldn't but it probably is easer than just claying and saves a bit of time.

MetzgerMeister

Iron X swells the paint in order to remove contaminants. This isn't good for the paint. Iron Cleanse works due to the contaminants being more attracted to the forumla than they are to the paint surface.

Ded_Zebra

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Iron X swells the paint in order to remove contaminants. This isn't good for the paint. Iron Cleanse works due to the contaminants being more attracted to the forumla than they are to the paint surface.

The tone of my post there might have been a bit harsh sounding there when I read it back. I'm sure it works and removes contaminants I would just like to know the chemistry of how it works is all.

Is there any other must try products that you think I should get?

I've been thinking about Collinite because of it's durability.

What are Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax and Auto-balm like? what is the differance between them?

MetzgerMeister

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

The tone of my post there might have been a bit harsh sounding there when I read it back. I'm sure it works and removes contaminants I would just like to know the chemistry of how it works is all.

Is there any other must try products that you think I should get?

I've been thinking about Collinite because of it's durability.

What are Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax and Auto-balm like? what is the differance between them?

Yeah, you sounded like an awful pr!ck alright :pac: I told you how it works, not really a science but when it comes to your questions about what can it remove that claying doesn't, it's down to mainly the iron particles themselves. Also it greatly reduces the risk of scratching or marring the paint when you clay it as there's a lot less contaminants to be removed.

Collinite is excellent but I've only used the 476s whereas vectra has used the 845 and while it's also just as durable, it's easier to remove when buffing. The 476 can be very tricky in this respect.

I haven't used BH Finis or Auto-balm but I do know that Finis is moreso for darker coloured cars. That Curran lad might be able to tell you more about both products.

Ded_Zebra

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Yeah, you sounded like an awful pr!ck alright :pac: I told you how it works, not really a science but when it comes to your questions about what can it remove that claying doesn't, it's down to mainly the iron particles themselves. Also it greatly reduces the risk of scratching or marring the paint when you clay it as there's a lot less contaminants to be removed.

Collinite is excellent but I've only used the 476s whereas vectra has used the 845 and while it's also just as durable, it's easier to remove when buffing. The 476 can be very tricky in this respect.

I haven't used BH Finis or Auto-balm but I do know that Finis is moreso for darker coloured cars. That Curran lad might be able to tell you more about both products.

Yeah sorry about that. i really should have read that more carefully before posting, I'm tired I guess

Hmm it's tricky to decide on the wax alright. When I read the product descriptions for them all they all sound fantastic and I basically have no idea what I'm looking for just that I would like to have it :pac:

MetzgerMeister

I was joking

JAMES VTI S

www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=196592

TomMc

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

I am learning and trying my best, I'll give iron cleanse a go.

However at the moment feel like it is a bit of a snake oil kind of thing. I can't find any source that tells the chemistry behind a fall out remover. I suspect that it is just a detergent who's Ph changes as it reacts with something on the paint. I think that it also contains an indicator (possibly Phenolphthalein becouse of the change form colorless to purple). I don't argue that it doesn't remove contamination from the paint surface but I certainly don't think it opens up the surface of the paint and takes out the iron particles. In other words I don't think it removes anything that the clay wouldn't but it probably is easer than just claying and saves a bit of time.

Clay bars only remove what is above the surface as they work by the mechanical action of gliding/rubbing back and forth, and therefore by friction. So like planing or sanding wood, whatever is proud of the top surface is removed. Anything below that isn't. They do not pull contaminants out of paint, just shave the head off.

While clay is good for removing paint overspray, it cannot deep clean the surface at the level of paint pores. This is only possible by chemical cleaning. Before ph neutral (bleeding) fallout removers came on the scene, manufacturers offered various washes, some alkaline, some acidic to remove different types of contamination, then followed by a ph neutralising wash.

This is a firm in the North involved with the development and manufacturing of fallout removers among other things, with some info on their approach to cleaning and related products.

http://www.pip-chemicals.co.uk/sci_decon.php

sebastianlieken

Which snow foam to you guys use? I'm due to buy a new tub; i was using the demon shine snow foam - it worked okay but I think there should be better more ... "foamy" stuff out there.

MetzgerMeister

OAC Cotton candy is good and available from detailing shed.

Also, the stuff that randy hickey used is more like feckin' ice cream than snow foam :pac: but I can't remember where he got it.

Ded_Zebra

Right I know I'm making a big deal out of this but this is the last question I have before ordering I promise!

What is the difference between Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax and Auto-balm? Are either of them any good? would I be better off buying some Collinite instead?

Curran

Atuo-Balm isnt very durable - its more of a rust inhibitor, but it also helps fills swirls and gives protection - it does quite a good job a hiding swirls.

Finis-Wax is an extremely duruable wax, but it also looks great on silvers / greys....will look good on any colour if the preparation is good!!

Finis-Wax would be my choice.

Ded_Zebra

Curran wrote: »

Atuo-Balm isnt very durable - its more of a rust inhibitor, but it also helps fills swirls and gives protection - it does quite a good job a hiding swirls.

Finis-Wax is an extremely duruable wax, but it also looks great on silvers / greys....will look good on any colour if the preparation is good!!

Finis-Wax would be my choice.

Auto_Balm is effectively a glaze then? How good at hiding swirls is it compared to AG SRP for example?

I feel like the two would work well together?

I feel bad making you work so hard for this sale

Curran

Auto-Balm I suppose is a bit like a glaze - but not considered a glaze - it lasts up to about 4 weeks. I does a slilghtly better job at hiding, but SRP protected well, will last longer than 4 weeks.

You could use Auto Balm and Finish Wax, but the problem is, that the durability doesnt really improve - it will slightly. The only way to get claimed durability of a product is to apply it direct to the paint. If layered on anything else, it hinders bonding. So, in this case, durability will be dictated by the Auto Balm. But will be slilghtly improved by Finis-Wax.

Ded_Zebra

Well I got my stuff today

Massive thanks to Curran for going out of his way to drop the stuff to me in town.
I have had a smell of everything and I think I'm going to go out now and have a bit of a play :P:D