Farmer's house

munkus

Lads,

Starting to design house on the farm. Is there anything unique to our line of work that required consideration or modification to a standard house. Primarily I'd be thinking about an outside sink or other decontamination area before she'd let me inside. Any ideas other than this?

Thanks

mf240

A roofed area outside backdoor where coats can be hung and wellingtons can be left with access to a back kitchen and jacks without enterering main house.

Do not put in a lawn if you can get away with it. Just gravel parking area.

delaval

mf240 wrote: »

A roofed area outside backdoor where coats can be hung and wellingtons can be left with access to a back kitchen and jacks without enterering main house.

Do not put in a lawn if you can get away with it. Just gravel parking area.

To that I would add, your farm office in room adjacent to utility, so business can be done without kids or needing to entertain callers.

Muckit

delaval wrote: »

To that I would add, your farm office in room adjacent to utility, so business can be done without kids or needing to entertain callers.

Yes convenient for 'secretary' to launder the masters robes during her break from form filling

whelan1

yup seperate shower , toilet and washing machine room for farming gear

moy83

Maybe even have the office and and spot for the wellies in the garage if youre building one . Its a pain in the ass going into the house looking for tags or cards and someone starts talking and sidetracks you .
Also if you are building a garage or shed for fuel storage make sure its designed for throwing in sticks/turf and that its close to the house so as not to be drawing it too far to the stove .

iverjohnston

Handy to have a power-shower, and leave room to stick in a washer and dryer in the "strip down" area! You can pick up these second hand for 50 euro each, just check the small ads in Tesco etc. If you shoot, now is the time to think about where your gun safe is going to go. If you can design in an area just big enough, and to be built with 6 inch blocks on their flat on 3 sides, or mass concrete if possible.

munkus

iverjohnston wrote: »

Handy to have a power-shower, and leave room to stick in a washer and dryer in the "strip down" area! You can pick up these second hand for 50 euro each, just check the small ads in Tesco etc. If you shoot, now is the time to think about where your gun safe is going to go. If you can design in an area just big enough, and to be built with 6 inch blocks on their flat on 3 sides, or mass concrete if possible.

Iver,

Where's the best place for the gun safe, In the bedroom walk in wardrobe I'd guess?

iverjohnston

That would be my preference. If I were building the house again (dormer) I would put in the concrete slabs for the upstairs floors. You need thicker block walls downstairs, and conducting wiring and pipe work is harder work, but the sound proofing alone would make up for that. Concrete stairs also fire-proof. Also if you have a few guns, or a larger bore rifle, and need alarms and lockable rooms, I think its safer upstairs. If you are going timber frame, you have fewer secure options. If you go for under-floor heating, leave an area without the pipes where you plan your gun safe. Then you can rawl bolt down into the concrete slab. Every bit helps. Your Fire Arms officer in the Guards will be happy to advise. Buy a bigger gun safe than you think you will need. Handy to have room for passports, documents etc

PS check the shooting forum, in the sports section here on Boards.

1chippy

Keep the site under an acre at all costs.dont go over 2000 sft, far less saleable. keep the front of your house neat and not crazily over sized or imposing.you will still want people to call into you. people dont like arriving up to a house with massive gates and shiny floors when theey are going for a ceile.

yellow50HX

Yeah I would definatly say put in a separate area for coming in from the farm. Rather then using the back door have your own area. Wanted to put the garage onto the house but council wouldn't let me. I have the garage away from the house so use that for the willies and work clothes. Fine at he moment but I end up having change again when I get in.
My orginal plan was to be able to come into there from the farm and have a shower, loo, washing machine and a small office, plus storage for the shoes, overall, work clothes and all. Have it insulated and heated. Put in a insulated roller door so that you can bring in the car when the weather is really crap.

Username John

munkus wrote: »

Lads,

Starting to design house on the farm. Is there anything unique to our line of work that required consideration or modification to a standard house. Primarily I'd be thinking about an outside sink or other decontamination area before she'd let me inside. Any ideas other than this?

Thanks

Hi Munkus,

Second what everyone else has said - seperate shower, washing machine, at the back door, or some place where you won't be dragging muck through the house.

Friend of mine built a house with a walkway between the garage and the house, is a great job.
I rented a house with a carport - basically a roof connecting the house and garage, was very handy. Means you can easily walk across to garage for wellies, etc. and handy for parking the car, brining in the shopping if it's raining, etc...

Not related to farming - but I built a house a few years ago, and am sorry I didn't out in concrete floors upstairs like Iver says above, they're a better job I think.

Best of luck with it.

AntrimGlens

I put a mud room at the back hall solely for me coming from the farm. Has a power shower and space for me to keep all farm clothes savings having to go to the bedroom to get changed. Utility room is completely separate across the hall for laundry with internal clothes line. Mud roomhas sink for mixing lectades etc not too dirty the Missus fine porcelains.

munkus

Thanks guys.

Great advice. Are the concrete floors upstairs awkward to run services or fix the ground Floor plasterboard ceiling to?

epfff

munkus wrote: »

Thanks guys.

Great advice. Are the concrete floors upstairs awkward to run services or fix the ground Floor plasterboard ceiling to?

In a word no
cost arant. Much higher either
other thing is put it close to yard kills me traveling to yard as I am now too near to drive but to far to walk

moy83

munkus wrote: »

Thanks guys.

Great advice. Are the concrete floors upstairs awkward to run services or fix the ground Floor plasterboard ceiling to?

The concrete floors are usually screeded over so any wiring or plumbuing will be run over the concrete and under the screed .
You can batten the underside of the concrete slabs in timber or metal stud to carry the plasterboard for the ceiling .

1chippy

munkus wrote: »

Thanks guys.

Great advice. Are the concrete floors upstairs awkward to run services or fix the ground Floor plasterboard ceiling to?

you will have to put a mf ceiling under the slab to fix slabs too and you will have to pour a seperate screed on top after all the pipes and services are laid. dont panic either there is very little in the price difference of putting in concrete and joists when alls accounted for. average of around 2k on a standard house but a far superior job.

iverjohnston

I really regret it, not having a concrete upper floor, now in the summer holidays. Children sound like herd of Elephants charging around upstairs!

49801

Lots of sound advice so far.
How about a garage for the quad/tractor near the house to keep the secure and handy

Dunedin

1chippy wrote: »

you will have to put a mf ceiling under the slab to fix slabs too and you will have to pour a seperate screed on top after all the pipes and services are laid. dont panic either there is very little in the price difference of putting in concrete and joists when alls accounted for. average of around 2k on a standard house but a far superior job.

+1 definitely go for the concrete beams - you will never regret it and you only get one chance to do it.

another wee bit of advice. allow a bit of extra space on your ceiling height for the batting, 50mm slab, etc. basically what starts out as an 8 foot ceiling suddenly is a 7' 6'' or thereabouts.

And if you're planning recess lights in your kitchen/hallway, make sure if you're going with timber batting that you leave enough height - 3 inches should be fine.

chat a builder about this if unsure of what I'm saying.

pakalasa

The back door facing east, with the roof coming out like a canopy over it. Wellies can be left at the back door without getting soaked.:D

grazeaway

Dunedin wrote: »

+1 definitely go for the concrete beams - you will never regret it and you only get one chance to do it.

another wee bit of advice. allow a bit of extra space on your ceiling height for the batting, 50mm slab, etc. basically what starts out as an 8 foot ceiling suddenly is a 7' 6'' or thereabouts.

And if you're planning recess lights in your kitchen/hallway, make sure if you're going with timber batting that you leave enough height - 3 inches should be fine.

chat a builder about this if unsure of what I'm saying.

good point, standard room height is 8ft for slabs and panels are usually around this height, if your going with the concrete slabs you will need to make your ground floor higher as you run the pipes and serivice under the slab in a false ceiling. Note that the extra hight of the ground floor needs to be added on as other wise you'll have a low ceiling on eithe the ground or 1st floor.

designed and got PP for my own place when i was free and single so put in a small utility room and bathroom inside the back door. however met the missus before i started to build and she wanted a differnent layout for the kitchen so i leave my work stuff and wellies in the garage but thats accross the yard. I think i'll build a leanto room onto the back gable at some stage so that when i'm in i'm in and i can leave my work gear in there and be able to just straigh into the house. Also in futher when and if there are small people with dirty wellies they can leave them there too.

stanflt

Keep the house small-too much cleaning to be done!!!!!

Regards concrete floor I put in joists on both floors then I put in 60mm Rockwell slabs which are fire proof and then I laid a 25mm plasterboard floor slab on top of this- then I glued t&g smart ply over this for a floating sound proof floor on both floors

I got most of the material free back on the day when I was a sales rep

It's noise proof and very warm and leaves flexibility for putting in stira stairs or round staircase as I want to turn third floor into a room over master

Muckit

AntrimGlens wrote: »

.....sink for mixing lectades etc not too dirty the Missus fine porcelains.

I've an image in my head of a calf seeping lectade out of some royal doulton:pac:

Toplink

Now might be your time to plan for cameras in the sheds and running CAT5 cabling back to your office, bedroom etc...

Muckit

stanflt wrote: »

Keep the house small

Yes stocking rate should be high in house as well as farm for maximum productivity

hugo29

all good advice, seperate room linked to house with washing machine dryer, clothes storage and hose down area will save a lot of rows, good idea about office beside this area too and great idea about cat 5 cabling for future cameras

concrete floors are hollowcore units, make sure you get prestressed and not pre cast, they are 150mm deep, make sure you seal the ends of same with wrap around polythene to make airtight

put in a 150mm deep false ceiling below hollowcore and do it in a metal framed (mf) system, stay away from recessed lights, biggest draft you will get in house,

decide now if you are going with underfloor heating, put 25mm insulation on top of hollowcore (first) floors before 75mm screed (concrete) finish

whatever you do get a good plumber

sorry i could go on all day and if ur not sure about anything PM me, its my line of work

Username John

hugo29 wrote: »

all good advice, seperate room linked to house with washing machine dryer, clothes storage and hose down area will save a lot of rows, good idea about office beside this area too and great idea about cat 5 cabling for future cameras

concrete floors are hollowcore units, make sure you get prestressed and not pre cast, they are 150mm deep, make sure you seal the ends of same with wrap around polythene to make airtight

put in a 150mm deep false ceiling below hollowcore and do it in a metal framed (mf) system, stay away from recessed lights, biggest draft you will get in house,

decide now if you are going with underfloor heating, put 25mm insulation on top of hollowcore (first) floors before 75mm screed (concrete) finish

whatever you do get a good plumber

sorry i could go on all day and if ur not sure about anything PM me, its my line of work

Jesus yes... am waiting for another plumber to call to me today actully... to fix things the first one fcuked up... :mad::mad::mad::mad:

hugo29

Username John wrote: »

Jesus yes... am waiting for another plumber to call to me today actully... to fix things the first one fcuked up... :mad::mad::mad::mad:

you are in the same boat as the rest of the country so, a good plumber is hard to get

Dunedin

hugo29 wrote: »

great idea about cat 5 cabling for future cameras

put in a 150mm deep false ceiling below hollowcore and do it in a metal framed (mf) system, stay away from recessed lights, biggest draft you will get in house,

put 25mm insulation on top of hollowcore (first) floors before 75mm screed (concrete) finish

a farming forum has turned into building chat but sur' what the heck..... just finished my house 6 months ago so all fresh in me head.

I put in cat 6. very little from memory in the cost over c5.

put in recess lights and have no issue whatsover with draught.

why the need to put insulation on top of hollowcore under the screed?? I just went with the staight 100mm screed (fitted into the soapbar around the edges)

I went with timber batten, probably would have gone metal if it was again but only time will tell.

hugo29

Dunedin wrote: »

a farming forum has turned into building chat but sur' what the heck..... just finished my house 6 months ago so all fresh in me head.

I put in cat 6. very little from memory in the cost over c5.

put in recess lights and have no issue whatsover with draught.

why the need to put insulation on top of hollowcore under the screed?? I just went with the staight 100mm screed (fitted into the soapbar around the edges)

I went with timber batten, probably would have gone metal if it was again but only time will tell.

insulation on top screed keeps heating from upstairs upstairs and downstairs downstairs, more a requirement with underfloor really but also helps with vibration, 75mm screed is enough, dont need to worry about block coursing at edges

less movement in metal frame therefore less cracking

AntrimGlens

i just spent the weekend insulating my house with 150mm downstairs and 75mm upstairs with a 75mm screed to go upstairs and 100mm on ground floor. What a bloody job cutting around pipes and thats only hot and cold water pipes as going with ufh. Still have ensuite and main bathroom to finish tonight. put a perimeter strip of 25mm along all external facing walls to retain heat.
i went with timber 2x2 battens, never thought about the mfc for cracking though - we'll see when the screed is poured.

hugo29

AntrimGlens wrote: »

i just spent the weekend insulating my house with 150mm downstairs and 75mm upstairs with a 75mm screed to go upstairs and 100mm on ground floor. What a bloody job cutting around pipes and thats only hot and cold water pipes as going with ufh. Still have ensuite and main bathroom to finish tonight. put a perimeter strip of 25mm along all external facing walls to retain heat.
i went with timber 2x2 battens, never thought about the mfc for cracking though - we'll see when the screed is poured.

put the 25mm around the internal walls as well , will allow screed to expand and also stop it drying into walls, stick a bit a142 mesh in the screed in the doors, screed prone to cracking where it narrows into doors

i know its a bit late but 75mm would have done you on the ground floor and 25mm would have done you on the first floor (although you guys have building control and more onerous regs than down here)

check the centres of the underfloor heating pipes in ratio to your external wall, thats the biggest mistake down here, guys not keeping ufh pipes close enough and not been able to heat rooms then, also make sure none of the UFH pipes become loose when screeds are being poured

Dampintheattic

Calving pen:cool:

Should be able to deal with calvings in your jammies:D

Muckit

Cut down on heating bills... bring the cow in beside you like they did years ago... but don't call her that to her face :pac:

milkprofit

as previous and
S drain in utility room for when washers nails etc get stuck in machine filter
Good Safe fire proof to protect documents not necessarily to prevent theft
cameras at all doors

delaney001

yellow50HX wrote: »

Yeah I would definatly say put in a separate area for coming in from the farm. Rather then using the back door have your own area. Wanted to put the garage onto the house but council wouldn't let me. I have the garage away from the house so use that for the willies and work clothes. Fine at he moment but I end up having change again when I get in.
My orginal plan was to be able to come into there from the farm and have a shower, loo, washing machine and a small office, plus storage for the shoes, overall, work clothes and all. Have it insulated and heated. Put in a insulated roller door so that you can bring in the car when the weather is really crap.

What kind of operation are you running...

Conmaicne Mara

milkprofit wrote: »

as previous and
S drain in utility room for when washers nails etc get stuck in machine filter
Good Safe fire proof to protect documents not necessarily to prevent theft
cameras at all doors

Where you farming, the inner city?

yellow50HX

delaney001 wrote: »

What kind of operation are you running...

OOPS a bit too much info

kupus

If you are going with a concrete 1st floor, I would advise on two separate heating controls, one for upstairs and one for down. Its a pure waste heating rooms upstairs when you are not even in them.

Or just build a house with straw!! http://www.strawbale.com/

freedominacup

If you are going with concrete floors upstairs there was a crowd in Limerick (I think) who were doing slabs with timber battens in the slab at 16" centres. Made the job of attaching your battens much simpler. They had their own unloading crane on one of their trucks and gauranteed to be able to load any house once they had access to three side of it. They were in the ballpark price wise with any of the competition but those two extras made them much better value.

Put in a block and plank floor here. A bit cheaper initially but a good bit of extra re-enforcing steel needed. Well pleased with the floor esp when compared to in-laws. 15 cousins go upstairs here and you have to go to check occasionally to make sure they haven't carried out some murder suicide pact. 15 cousins go upstairs in any of the inlaws and you think they're beside you, dosing big raw stores,without a crush.

milkprofit

Conmaicne Mara wrote: »

Where you farming, the inner city?

Whats your point

Conmaicne Mara

milkprofit wrote: »

Whats your point

Tis alright, don't worry about it