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Wax B Gone ?

  • 12-07-2013 9:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭


    Right washing up liquid dosnt strip wax so really what dose :confused:

    IPA maby, but how


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Right washing up liquid dosnt strip wax so really what dose :confused:

    IPA maby, but how


    Washing up liquid, TFR, IPA, certain shampoo's, clay, tar remover, petrol, and others will strip wax to varying degrees and with varying safety.

    If you are looking to remove freshly applied wax, TFR, clay and perhaps an IPA wipedown....wouldnt be necessary for a layer of wax that is nearly gone.

    TFR should be used on limited occasions as it is bad for plastics and rubbers in the car..fades them over time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    That good to know about the TFR!!

    i applied two coats of sealent about two months ago and id like to go down the 476s route now so tahts why i ask


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    That good to know about the TFR!!

    i applied two coats of sealent about two months ago and id like to go down the 476s route now so tahts why i ask

    Just to make sure I made that clear...

    TFR to remove some of it, then clay to remove the rest...and IPA wipedown if it was fresh wax.
    TFR on its own wont do it unless the wax is nearly totally gone.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    I use TFR weekly and the sealent is still present


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I use TFR weekly and the sealent is still present

    What sealant and what TFR?

    Each sealant will have differing durability and obviously how many layers applied and if you are topping it up with anything. Also, TFR differ in strenghts too.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    AS TFR
    Valugard paint sealent x2 coats
    Topped with AG express wax


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    AS TFR
    Valugard paint sealent x2 coats
    Topped with AG express wax

    So you are topping up your protection after each wash. The TFR will be stripping this instead of your wax during your weekly wash.

    Try not using AG Express Wax after the weekly wash and see how long your sealant lasts when washed with TFR


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    Sorry i dont top up ever wash just ever third wash
    I want to re-machine my van with a polish as i all ready compounded it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    For some reason it looses it 'pop' about a month and a half after .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,664 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    I use a couple of washes with a mix of Fairy liquid and APC
    Does the job for me.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    I thought I would post briefly with regards to products like fairy liquid or, generically, washing up liquids. It has become something of a common discussion point online that fairy liquid is a horrendously dangerous product - it will strip almost any LSP, it is filled with salt and will do no end of damage. All of this is myth with very little basis in reality.

    First up, lets consider what is in fairy liquid. Fairy is a water based mixture of surfactants. There are some additions to this which are mainly to do with stabilising the product so it doesn't break down (fairy is much less likely to separate out than most automotive products).The product is close to pH neutral and doesn't contain anything in the way of harmful additions (it has to be food safe - the same is not true for automotive products). Being more specific, the surfactants within fairy are nothing especially unusual - they are good solid surfactants which are used throughout the detergents industry. They are at high levels and fairy is a good product because they can get them in at higher levels than others without compromising elsewhere. More important is that the surfactants within are actually found in some other products we are familiar with - we call them car shampoos! Salt? In fairy? You must be kidding. Salt is a thickener in a product like this. With fairy, they will be fighting to LOWER the viscosity, not raise it. Salt (sodium chloride) would potentially make the product so thick as to be impossible to make or use. Cheaper products will have lower activity levels and will not be so thick on their own - at this point it is common to add salt to compensate. This is common in budget washing up liquids and similar - not uncommon in cheap bulk car shampoos either! So, from a chemical point of view, fairy and other washing up liquids have very little of concern for your car. In fact fairy is necessarily milder than many car cleaning shampoos - this should not surprise you, fairy is designed for repeated and prolonged skin contact!

    Then we have the LSP stripping. I have done numerous tests here and I don't know what the fuss is about. My tests show that it does not easily strip LSP, even when when applied neat to a wash mitt. In fact, on the subject, I tend to find that even neat TFR/APC will struggle to remove my LSPs as easily as spray and wipe! What I have observed repeatedly is the removal of water beading and sheeting. I believe that this is confusing people into believing that LSPs are removed. More importantly, this removal of beading and sheeting is temporary. This fits well with the chemistry - surfactants bond to oils, this is how they work. Your LSP is.... basically a fancy oil. So you have a concentrated surfactant mixture (fairy) and you are applying it to an oily layer. The surfactant will stick! Now, because your LSP is not actually a simple oil, it is much harder to remove. The bond between the paint and the LSP is stronger than between LSP and surfactant - so the surfactant will stick to the LSP but won't be able to remove much of it. The trouble is you now have surfactant stuck to your LSP making the water behaviour appear to have left the building! Now, the surfactant also has a water loving element so it will be removed with enough water. It will not rinse off immediately - it wouldn't be a very good surfactant if it could 'released' the oily end that easily. So it can take a LOT of rinsing to get rid of it all. So in my view there are two potential scenarios here... either these myths are coming from people who are confused as described or the protection products I make are much more resilient than most on the market - much as I would like to claim this, the truth is that I make good products but I cannot pretend that they are all ground breaking!

    So next time you hear someone talking about fairy stripping wax - think about it a bit more carefully!

    Dish soap dosnt work, is there even a need to strip the sealant if i am polishing i wont be polishing the signwriting so there will be some on thoses areas


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,907 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    is there even a need to strip the sealant if i am polishing

    Nope, no need at all if you want to polish the sealant. If however you want to polish the paint then stripping the sealant is probably a good idea!


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