disintegrated quick release

Ryder

I recently 'serviced' my cup and cones tear wheel. Serviced as in regressed and tightened a little. Tonight, 40kms after doing the above, the rear wheel actually fell off. I heard a rubbing noise, wheel locked, and the non drive locknut popped off. Quick release literally nowhere to be seen.

Anyone else experience this? Absolute incompetence/ not tightening the quick release enough/ something else. Any ideas appreciated before I have a go at fixing this myself again

Thanks

Holyboy

Did you use cone spanners to tighten the cones against the over lock nuts?

Ryder

Holyboy wrote: »

Did you use cone spanners to tighten the cones against the over lock nuts?

yes....but may not have been too enthusiastic about it. Hard to balance between too tight and wobbly wheel. Do you think the lock nut unscrewing blew off the quick release?

NeedMoreGears

Seems a strange one. It would be worth checking for damage on the threads of the axle, cone and locknut when you go to repair things. Did the locknut simply unthread itself or is their evidence of it being forced off?

Where did the cone itself end up - has it backed out of position?

Daft question perhaps but are you sure you reinstalled the QR? I seem to recall the "lawyers lips" on the drop outs are there to stop the wheel coming out when the QR is loose so maybe they could allow the wheel to work even without a QR installed - at least for a short while. Maybe someone more knowledgeable could comment.

As regards the cone/locknut, I set the cones first (as you say trying to balance tightness vs. free movement) and then lock them in position individually by holding the cone with the cone spanner and tightening its lock nut against it - not against the opposite cone. That way I hope to secure the cones in position without sqeezing the bearings and causing the wheel to stick or run roughly.

cython

NeedMoreGears wrote: »

Daft question perhaps but are you sure you reinstalled the QR? I seem to recall the "lawyers lips" on the drop outs are there to stop the wheel coming out when the QR is loose so maybe they could allow the wheel to work even without a QR installed - at least for a short while. Maybe someone more knowledgeable could comment.

Typically these lips are only on the front fork when they are present, at least in my experience. I think this is largely because most of the rider's weight would be over the rear wheel, and between that and the additional mechanicals the rear wheel is a lot less likely to come loose. And even then, they are more intended for improperly tightened QR skewers than for completely absent ones, since the lips are on the outside of the fork, and it's the skewer that catches behind them rather than the wheel or axle.

lescol

If the cone was catching the bearings it would tighten into the wheel, hence the locking of the axle, this would loosen the locknut/cone further, as the wheel kept rotating the locknut would be held in place by the dropout so that the axle would turn in the nut, hence undoing the locknut off the axle.

Ryder

lescol wrote: »

If the cone was catching the bearings it would tighten into the wheel, hence the locking of the axle, this would loosen the locknut/cone further, as the wheel kept rotating the locknut would be held in place by the dropout so that the axle would turn in the nut, hence undoing the locknut off the axle.

first prize, thanks. Axle completely seized up because the drive side cone had tightened up, and the lock nut popped off, probably then forcing the quick release to open and come apart.

Took the wheel apart and the ball bearings were flattened on that side. going to have one more go at fixing this.....

Ryder

Holyboy wrote: »

Did you use cone spanners to tighten the cones against the over lock nuts?

when I put the axle in, the drive side cone is hidden by the cogs, so I can't tighten it against the locknut. Is that normal? I've only one spacer, and can't see any other way of putting the axle back in

NeedMoreGears

cython wrote: »

Typically these lips are only on the front fork when they are present, at least in my experience.

Another first prize!. 'was cleaning the bike last night and my own is exactly as desribed.

Pigeon Reaper

Ryder wrote: »

when I put the axle in, the drive side cone is hidden by the cogs, so I can't tighten it against the locknut. Is that normal? I've only one spacer, and can't see any other way of putting the axle back in

You can lock the drive side cone and nut tight once you have the positioning correct on the axle. This will allow you to place it into the hub and then adjust the non-drive side cone and lock nut since these are easy to access.

Ryder

Pigeon Reaper wrote: »

You can lock the drive side cone and nut tight once you have the positioning correct on the axle. This will allow you to place it into the hub and then adjust the non-drive side cone and lock nut since these are easy to access.

will have to try again when i get home tonight, but the non drive side cone seems fused to the axle. initially i thought this was normal, but obviously dosent make sense when you think about it. that assumption led me to tighten the lock nut on that side, and not on the drive side (where i cant get access to counter tighten) and disintegration, near death etc.

if i cant get that cone to come off, it will be the walk of shame to the bike shop

Pigeon Reaper

Chances are road crud has caused the exposed lock nut to seize up a little. Try loosening with penetrating oil. You could also try heat but if it's badly seized a new axle isn't too expensive.

Ryder

Pigeon Reaper wrote: »

Chances are road crud has caused the exposed lock nut to seize up a little. Try loosening with penetrating oil. You could also try heat but if it's badly seized a new axle isn't too expensive.

thanks, will give it a go tonight. the funny thing about bike repairs is that theres always a tipping point beyond which its cheaper and easier to get a bike shop to do it. so far, diy had been cheaper, but i have a bad feeling that ill be admitting defeat next week. will let you know

cdaly_

You need to take off the cassette to get at the drive-side cone/nut.

Ryder

cdaly_ wrote: »

You need to take off the cassette to get at the drive-side cone/nut.

problem identified. The drive side washer was too small for the axle, so I couldn't take the cone off that side.....so had to take everything apart from the non drive side.....i didn't think it through because I couldn't counter tighten the drive side....leading to a locked wheel. I eventually discovered the correct way to go it.

I took the cassette off but doesn't really change the access. The free hub still limits visibility, but can still service the cup on that side. Roll on casette bearing wheels next time