Toyota corolla 1999 Oil change help

steve3194

Hi all, was hoping someone could give me a hand with this.
I'm going to have a go at changing the oil in my car( corolla 1999 4efe). I have a set of ramps ordered. My main question is in regards to the sump plug washer. I'm just wondering if they are included with the filter or if they have to be bought separately I've heard both. I have the ramps ordered from micksgarage.ie and I was going to get the filter there too. Would a motor factors stock the washers or where can they be got?

Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated

Also this is the oil I was thinking of getting http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1212934&pk=c7d01

It's the same grade that's in it do you think it would be suitable?
Thanks

DIESEL TOM

steve3194 wrote: »

My main question is in regards to the sump plug washer. I'm just wondering if they are included with the filter or if they have to be bought separately I've heard both. Would a motor factors stock the washers or where can they be got? [/QUOTE]
it very unlikely that they will be a sump washer in with the filter........motor factors would have them in stock anyway..

joujoujou

Toyota dealer has them washers.

Item number: 90430-12031. Total cost: approx. 1.50 euro.

steve3194

Thanks lads.

One more question. I'm just wonder what this is, it looks similar to the oil filter.

Just curious as to whether or not its something thats needs to be changed.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/r45d.jpg/

Thanks again

Technoprisoner

steve3194 wrote: »

Thanks lads.

One more question. I'm just wonder what this is, it looks similar to the oil filter.

Just curious as to whether or not its something thats needs to be changed.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/r45d.jpg/

Thanks again

thats not a filter

steve3194

Technoprisoner wrote: »

thats not a filter

ok, Any idea what it is?

DublinDilbert

steve3194 wrote: »

ok, Any idea what it is?

That's the wiper motor...

biko

You can find many vids about how to go about this job.
It'll show you what to do and where the things go.
I recommend you drain oil first, then do filter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8_EdQjNtGo

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1999_Toyota_Corolla_CE_1.8L_4_Cyl./oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

Oil filter http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_nkw=1999+corolla+oil+filter
Some sellers will include sump plug washer with the filter, some won't.

Also read the sticky "How to service car" on top of the DIY forum page.

steve3194

DublinDilbert wrote: »

That's the wiper motor...

Thanks...

steve3194

biko wrote: »

You can find many vids about how to go about this job.
It'll show you what to do and where the things go.
I recommend you drain oil first, then do filter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8_EdQjNtGo

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1999_Toyota_Corolla_CE_1.8L_4_Cyl./oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

Oil filter http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_nkw=1999+corolla+oil+filter
Some sellers will include sump plug washer with the filter, some won't.

Also read the sticky "How to service car" on top of the DIY forum page.

Thanks for the info I'll have a look at these

steve3194

The gearbox on the car is also a bit stiff. Especially when going from first to second. The mechanic bled the clutch before and that didn't solve it and nothings been done since. Do you think changing the transmission fluid would help? I can't imagine it was ever changed before to be honest. Car wasn't exactly looked after greatly

Does anyone know the grade suitable? I've had 75W90 recommended.

Might be something I'd tackle after the oil change if you think it would help

congo_90

steve3194 wrote: »

The gearbox on the car is also a bit stiff. Especially when going from first to second. The mechanic bled the clutch before and that didn't solve it and nothings been done since. Do you think changing the transmission fluid would help? I can't imagine it was ever changed before to be honest. Car wasn't exactly looked after greatly

Does anyone know the grade suitable? I've had 75W90 recommended.

Might be something I'd tackle after the oil change if you think it would help

Car being lyed up for a while? If so just hooer her down some country roads and she'll loosen out for ya.

steve3194

congo_90 wrote: »

Car being lyed up for a while? If so just hooer her down some country roads and she'll loosen out for ya.

hmmm... Don't think thats it to be honest. I drive it most days and its like that since I got it a year ago. But it does loosen out a bit after a while

CJhaughey

Change the gearbox oil, 75w90 is the stuff GL4 I think.
only takes about 2 litres, there are two 24mm nuts that need to be opened, open the filler first then the drain, if you round the filler you can still drive it, not so the drain plug.
You'd want to warm the car up for a spell before you change the oil and gearbox oil so it flows nice and easily.

steve3194

Earlier today while looking under the car I discovered a small leak coming from the bottom of the gearbox ( I think )

I have some pictures but they're not great. It was hard to take them as the car wasn't jacked up.









If you can make it out, do you think this looks serious. There was one or two drops of oil on the ground under it. I had the NCT in march and didn't fail on this. Could the stiff gears be related to this. Would like to know your thoughts

Cheers

CJhaughey

The first two are the clutch breather holes in the bell housing, is the oil coming out of them or is it just running down over the bellhousing?
It doesn't look like much oil. You should check the oil level before you drain the gearbox to see if it has dropped much if at all.
Once you undo the top filler bung you chould be able stick your little finger into the hole and the oil level should be at the hole or very slightly below it.

Technoprisoner

is it engine oil or is it gear oil? best way to tell is the smell of it...engine oil smells like oil....gear oil is very distinctive....its the type of smell you wont forget

steve3194

CJhaughey wrote: »

The first two are the clutch breather holes in the bell housing, is the oil coming out of them or is it just running down over the bellhousing?
It doesn't look like much oil. You should check the oil level before you drain the gearbox to see if it has dropped much if at all.
Once you undo the top filler bung you chould be able stick your little finger into the hole and the oil level should be at the hole or very slightly below it.

It looks to me like its trickling out of the gap in the first and second picture.

Is it possible to check the level from the filler bung? I thought the only way to check was to remove the side one and see if it's dripping out of it?

It's just a bit concerning add the fact that the gearbox isn't very smooth.
When I bought it I was told it was a reconditioned box

steve3194

Technoprisoner wrote: »

is it engine oil or is it gear oil? best way to tell is the smell of it...engine oil smells like oil....gear oil is very distinctive....its the type of smell you wont forget

Doesn't really smell a whole lot. But its hard to know as there isn't a lot of it.

It looks to me like it's coming from the box but I don't really know. All I can see is whats in the pictures

Technoprisoner

it could be crankshaft oil seal gone. this is will leak engine oil as opposed to gear oil. To be honest this would require you to bring the car to a mechanic for repair.

steve3194

Got the engine Oil change done, It went well aside from the fella in the motor factors not knowing the washer I needed and giving me the incorrect one. Sorted now. Anyway, I was hoping someone could help with this, I've done a bit of research but just need a little extra help. I'm going to change the instrument dials bulbs. My car has the analogue odometer I've heard that this requires me to unplug a cable going from the speedometer to the gearbox. I wondering if someone could please post a picture (or direct me to one) of the part to be unplugged. I'm not sure if its to be unplugged from the gearbox or from up near the bulkhead. I can also see two cables going to the gearbox so I am unsure.

Thanks

Toyotafanboi

those boxes if i remember rightly have a weakness in the selector assembly that causes a notchiness between first and second, or sometimes second and third gears, sign up and have a read of this thread. it seems to be an easy remedy if you are a bit handy.

http://www.toyotaownersclub-irl.com/t2541-sloppy-gearstick-easy-fix-glanza-gtetc

if you don't fancy signing up i will copy and paste the thread to you if you pm me later, i am wayyyyy too tired right now.

the crankshaft oil seal also popularly fails on the 4e on both sides, so that's possibly more likely to be engine oil weeping rather than gearbox oil.

Toyotafanboi

http://toyota.aitnet.org/Corolla/Corolla_E11_Haynes_Workshop_Manual.pdf

there's a link to an online haynes manual for your car,which will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about doing any job on your car.

steve3194

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

those boxes if i remember rightly have a weakness in the selector assembly that causes a notchiness between first and second, or sometimes second and third gears, sign up and have a read of this thread. it seems to be an easy remedy if you are a bit handy.

http://www.toyotaownersclub-irl.com/t2541-sloppy-gearstick-easy-fix-glanza-gtetc

if you don't fancy signing up i will copy and paste the thread to you if you pm me later, i am wayyyyy too tired right now.

the crankshaft oil seal also popularly fails on the 4e on both sides, so that's possibly more likely to be engine oil weeping rather than gearbox oil.

Thanks for the info. I'd rather it be leaking engine oil as its easier to top up. The amount its leaking is very small so I might leave it for the time being. Any idea about the speedometer cable I posted above?

Thanks again

joujoujou

steve3194 wrote: »

[...] Any idea about the speedometer cable I posted above?

Thanks again

Undo this:

steve3194

joujoujou wrote: »

Undo this:

Thanks a million for the picture. Yours is way more open than mine. Do I just twist it by hand? Seems very stiff

Technoprisoner

steve3194 wrote: »

Thanks for the info. I'd rather it be leaking engine oil as its easier to top up. The amount its leaking is very small so I might leave it for the time being. Any idea about the speedometer cable I posted above?

Thanks again

that leak could cause your clutch to fail prematurely

steve3194

Technoprisoner wrote: »

that leak could cause your clutch to fail prematurely

Would it not have came up at nct if it was that serious?

Would a mechanic not have said something about it?

Technoprisoner

steve3194 wrote: »

Would it not have came up at nct if it was that serious?

Would a mechanic not have said something about it?

it should have been picked up in the nct.... to be fair you are probably better off letting it burn out the clutch because to change the seal its gearbox out time and that is quite a bit of work so if you are in that far you might as well do the clutch if its cheap enough and hasnt been changed recently

joujoujou

steve3194 wrote: »

[...] Do I just twist it by hand? [...]

I doubt. Bottom part can be held with flat 12 spanner, top by vise grip or plumber's pliers.

steve3194

I was going to start a new thread for this but it is kind of related so I'll post here. Anyway...

Today I tried to remove the spark plug wires from the plug just to inspect them and get some practice for the future if I'm changing the plugs.
When I was pulling the cables from the boot they were difficult to remove so I just left it because I didn't have any spare in case something went wrong.

When looking at the cables themselves I noticed at parts there is some small cracks(pretty minor looking).

I just have some questions about the process of changing them if someone would be kind enough to offer their knowledge.

Firstly the cables are numbered. Each has a number corresponding to the area its connected to on the Ignition coil.
If I was to get new cables would these also have the same numbers so I would know where to connect them on the coil or how does that work.

My second question is related to the ignition coil. I have noticed some differences on how these look on the corollas

My one is like this:

http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/engine_info/4efe_97_02_1.jpg

I have also seen some that look like this:



I am just wondering if the different types of coils are numbered differently etc.

Hopefully someone can offer some insight and it would be very much appreciated

Cheers

CJhaughey

Your engine is the 1.3 4E-FE?
As long as you replace the leads in the same pattern they will work.
If you are unsure when you get new leads then open the box they come in and sort them from shortest to longest. Then replace them one by one, not all at once.
Regarding plugs, Denso K16TR11 is the plug specced but NGK will do as well.

steve3194

Oh I see. So the cables themselves don't really matter the numbers are to make sure the correct plug is connected to the correct port on the coil. The cables are all the same just different lengths

Cool thanks for your help.

Any advice for removing the Tight cables from the plugs? I presume if I have replacements no major damage can be done.

CJhaughey

steve3194 wrote: »

Oh I see. So the cables themselves don't really matter the numbers are to make sure the correct plug is connected to the correct port on the coil. The cables are all the same just different lengths

Cool thanks for your help.

Any advice for removing the Tight cables from the plugs? I presume if I have replacements no major damage can be done.

The rubber can stick to the plug pretty hard, It won't matter if you are replacing the plug leads and plugs at the same time but sometimes the connection inside the lead can come apart.
Pull, twist, wiggle etc they should come off with not too much hassle.

spankmemunkey

Fair play to you getting stuck in there, if you dont ask the questions you wont get the answeres! you will learn a whole bunch doin it yourself.

I would recommend you join a Toyota online forum i dont know of any myself im more of a Volkswagen person although my first and favourite was a toyota corolla. I would also recommend you buy yourself a haynes manual for your car it will help you no end. If i ever buy an older car again i will buy a haynes manual because it cuts out all the messin round and saves time. newer cars ye cant touch these days its all computers and electronics

sandydan

one bit of advice i got after mixing up leads in a ford cortina 25 years ago , get a pencil and sketch where leads come from and where they go,
so I would say get your mobile phone if its got a camera and take a photo of plugs to distributor and first put a mark on distributor with tippex beside any lead and corresponding plug,old corollas are great for diy,good luck

steve3194

sandydan wrote: »

one bit of advice i got after mixing up leads in a ford cortina 25 years ago , get a pencil and sketch where leads come from and where they go,
so I would say get your mobile phone if its got a camera and take a photo of plugs to distributor and first put a mark on distributor with tippex beside any lead and corresponding plug,old corollas are great for diy,good luck

Cheers thanks for the advice.