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Car Detailing Essentials

  • 26-06-2013 10:09am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,357 ✭✭✭✭


    For a car detailing virgin, if you had no products or equipment at all, if you had a budget of lets say 200 Euro, what would be on your shopping list?

    This could be good for any car detailing newbies looking for where to start, (like me)

    Go!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Basics for keeping the car clean....MUST haves....
    Two Buckets w/ Grit Guard....
    Wash Mitt
    pH Netutral Shampoo
    Microfiber Drying Towel
    Wheel Cleaner

    Doing a job on the car....
    Tar Remover
    Clay
    Polish
    Protection (Wax or Sealant)

    Should have, but no biggie without.....
    Glass Cleaner
    Metal Polish, if you have nice exhaust tips
    Quick Detailer / Top Up Protection spray, for after drying the car

    Optional...
    De-Ironiser


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,652 ✭✭✭Chimaera


    Why use a microfibre towel for drying rather than a chamois leather?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Chimaera wrote: »
    Why use a microfibre towel for drying rather than a chamois leather?

    Because you reduce the risk of scratching the paint when drying and a microfibre will hold more water.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Chimaera wrote: »
    Why use a microfibre towel for drying rather than a chamois leather?

    Leather chamois aren't as soft, especially if they have been dried incorrectly, and become hard - not good for your paintwork. Also as said, doesnt hold a huge amount of water...having to ring it out constantly.

    A good quality microfiber drying towel, should be able to dry a larger sized family saloon / executive car, such as an A6 / 5 Series / Superb, without the need to ring it out. Use one end / half to go around the car taking the heavy amounts off, and the too collect the remaining small amounts. Some people prefer to use the whole towel getting off the heavy amounts as they will be following up with a quick detailer type product afterwards.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,073 ✭✭✭✭cena


    [QUOTE=

    Optional...
    De-Ironiser[/QUOTE]

    What is this used for


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    cena wrote: »
    What is this used for

    Over time, iron particles/fallout fuse themselves into the paint. Claying and washing doesn't get them out but a de-ironiser like OAC Iron Cleanse sticks to the paint and removes them leaving an even smoother finish for better surface for polish/wax to bond to.

    It's a clear gel-like liquid in the bottle but as it does its job, it turns purple. This means that it has come into contact with iron particles/fallout and has removed them.

    It smells horrible but is excellent. There are other products on the market like Iron X, Wax Tec Fallout Remover but OAC Iron Cleanse really is the best of them all because it sticks to the surface rather than running off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    What MetzgerMeister has said above is spot on.

    But just to give a bit of background on where the source of iron particles that are fused to your paint work would come from.
    Hot particle from your car's brakes or from other cars/trucks around you (on a motorway for example)
    Parked near a train station - train stopping at the station generates air borne particle
    Industrial areas - particularly around welding or grinding

    The de-ironise / fall out remover step, can be done on wheels, but also on the paintwork. It makes a huge difference to a surface, prior to claying - less likely to cause swirling and can speed up the claying process quite a lot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    I was in the OP's position last year. I found once i clayed my car for the first time, i took an awful lot more pride in its appearance afterwards!!!

    I cant really add too much more to what the lads have said, but i would recommend getting yourself a quick detailer.
    Something like this:
    http://www.detailingshed.com/sealants/137-chemical-guys-blitz-spray-sealant.html

    Dead handy if you dont have time to polish/seal after you've washed the car. Its also ideal for a touch up here and there after a polish to bring back out that shine and remove and dust particals/rain spots you'll accumalate after a few days driving, i'd be lost without mine now.

    Its an expensive hobby but well worth it :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,357 ✭✭✭✭SteelyDanJalapeno


    What's a quick detailer?

    sounds like I'll be buying someone, and keeping him in the boot for times of need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    What's a quick detailer?

    sounds like I'll be buying someone, and keeping him in the boot for times of need.

    Sorry, i only added the link after you posted! See my post above now :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    What's a quick detailer?

    sounds like I'll be buying someone, and keeping him in the boot for times of need.

    Spray on, buff off with a microfiber cloth...gives a no streak finish. Adds depth, gloss and a bit of protection. Some add more protection than others. Blitz would give a decent amount of protection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Curran wrote: »
    Spray on, buff off with a microfiber cloth...gives a no streak finish. Adds depth, gloss and a bit of protection. Some add more protection than others. Blitz would give a decent amount of protection.

    And for some reason, some (Demon Shine) remove your LSP after a few applications :(


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