auto light for loft ladder hatch

dingdong1234567

I am looking to wire up a door switch to an attic ladder hatch so that when the hatch is pulled down the switch turns on the light buld in the attic above.
However I am having trouble sourcing a switch the would do this. Has anyone done something similar to what I am talking about? I think this would be very handy as there is a light bulb already in the attic but is plugged into an unswitched faceplate and a pain to reach.
A switch at the attic hatch would be a better job me thinks. Any help would be appreciated

Davy

Why not just wire it to beside the trap down so its beside it, for easy first and last thing switching. You could also use a pull cord if handier but might cause more trouble that its worth.

Third option is to switch from landing below. Routing cable wouldn't be to hard via a stud partition

DublinDilbert

That's actually a good idea. You can get similar switches for wardrobes, so when the door is opened they turn on the lights. Google wardrobe light switch and you'll get lots of hits. Just make sure the switch is ratted for the load.

Btw ikea wardrobe lights don't use a switch, they use an ldr to pick up the room lights when you open the wardrobe, and turn on the lights

Davy

DublinDilbert wrote: »

That's actually a good idea. You can get similar switches for wardrobes, so when the door is opened they turn on the lights.

The attic trapdoor would get a bit more abuse than the top of a wardrobe imo and the reason I would avoid it. Might not be used as much, but moving around it and often moving boxes etc doesn't seem the best idea to me anyway

2011

.....or you could use a sensor light such as this:

glynf

Maybe a decent limit switch like a TELEMECANIQUE - XCKD2145P16:


http://uk.farnell.com/schneider-electric-telemecanique/xckd2145p16/limit-switch-adj-roller-lever/dp/4253802

Used them for similar on AHU doors, more robust than wardrobe switch, and rated for 10 @ 240V.

LeBash

Most wholesalers will have a flush push to break switch. I picked one up from Michael Garrys in Finglas a few years ago. Cost was about 6 euro i think.

indie armada

you can get a slightly hevier duty push to break switch in a surface type.
Garrys should have them and the code is a 142 for the surface.
the code fo the flush is a 140.
They both cost approx 7.00 euro.

http://www.jeani-accessories.ltd.uk/switches/door.htm

dingdong1234567

Looking at a 1amp push to break switch, would that be enough to run a light bulb? I will be taking a feed from a bedroom lighting rose.

indie armada

dingdong1234567 wrote: »

Looking at a 1amp push to break switch, would that be enough to run a light bulb? I will be taking a feed from a bedroom lighting rose.

by my understanding a 1amp switch should be fine once you dont use a massive high wattage bulb and you wire it in 1.5 twin and earth or similar cable with that size conductor.
The ceiling rose would need to have a perminant live, if not then if the wires for the lighting track trough your attic you might be able to identify the lighting cicut and tap into it with a suitable jb

2011

dingdong1234567 wrote: »

Looking at a 1amp push to break switch, would that be enough to run a light bulb? I will be taking a feed from a bedroom lighting rose.

It would not be a problem getting a suitable switch that can switch the load of a single light.

My question is why bother?

A sensor light has no mechanical parts that can wear and fail, requires less wiring (none required for a switch), more convenient, can be energy efficient and impact resistant and makes such as Stinel are reliable with a descent warranty.

Bruthal

dingdong1234567 wrote: »

Looking at a 1amp push to break switch, would that be enough to run a light bulb? I will be taking a feed from a bedroom lighting rose.

You can only use the bedroom rose if it is a ceiling rose loop in wiring setup. Otherwise you would have to have the bedroom light on to use the attic one, eliminating the idea of the automatic attic light door switch.