oil filter tightened by hand - is it enough?

Bikerguy

self exchange oil + filter --> i am using K&N filter, they do have the head for wrench but i wonder how you do it? is the hand thight enouhg?

kevin-46

ive the tool for it also i cant message you as your messages are full delete some

Bikerguy

kevin-46 wrote: »

ive the tool for it also i cant message you as your messages are full delete some

deleted some ... sorry. so you using the tool or simply hand?

i am not looking for tool i just wanna know how the people here do it bro.

Wonda-Boy

Hand tight was always good enough for me on the FZ6 as long as you really feel the tightness, if you have/can get a tool use it.....make sure the filter is bone dry and your hands are clean and the size of you Ed the thing will not budge!

Rovi

This is coming from an agricultural/industrial/car/truck point of view, so very much open to correction if motorcycle filters are different, but I'd always fit spin-on filters by running them on until they seat and then giving them another 1/4-1/2 a turn by hand to seal. I've never had a filter leak or come loose after doing this.
Filter spanners are for taking them off, as far as I'd be concerned.

doolox

Is the way I've done cars for ages with no trouble.

I assume motorbikes are similar but could be wrong.

Lurching

As above, i've never done anything other than hand tighten screw on filters.
Make sure you oil the seal with a drop of clean oil first too.

spiggotpaddy

Theres no room to get your hands in behind the pipes on a lot of bikes. I always nip it up with a filter tool for easy access.

Del2005

spiggotpaddy wrote: »

Theres no room to get your hands in behind the pipes on a lot of bikes. I always nip it up with a filter tool for easy access.

You should try working on some cars, you need at least 6 joints between your wrist and elbow to be able to access the filter never mind twisting it.

I also just hand tighten them, keep going till it sits on the engine then give it another 1/3 or 1/2 turn to secure. There's not that much aluminium to be tightening onto, if you use a tool you could snap off the filter mount.

dodderangler

doolox wrote: »

Is the way I've done cars for ages with no trouble.

I assume motorbikes are similar but could be wrong.

Yeah I'm the same
The things about tools is most are designed to take off filters with force so they can damage the filter when taking them off so they can also do the same tightening them.
Best way to do it is put the new one on and turn it till it stops, wipe off all oil or any grease with a rag and use a fresh latex glove as they are great for the grip and tighten it then
No problem

Wossack

as said the strap type tools tend squeeze and often crimp/damage the filter. Some squish is ok - but can deform the opening, so wont seal right..

I think from the factory, the original oil filters are torqued on to like 25Nm, which seems crazy high.. why the first one is usually a bitch to take off

Bikerguy

Thanks all for answers. Hand tight will do then.

paddy147

Wossack wrote: »

as said the strap type tools tend squeeze and often crimp/damage the filter. Some squish is ok - but can deform the opening, so wont seal right..

I think from the factory, the original oil filters are torqued on to like 25Nm, which seems crazy high.. why the first one is usually a bitch to take off

Theres a plastic/rubber strap lid opener that is on sale in Aldi at the moment.

You adjust it to open anything from lemonade botttle caps to jam jar lids and coffee lids.


My mates uses it to take off and put on bike filter on his various bikes.

Its a great little gadget and because its so compact,it gets in behind the bike exhaust headers and pipes with no problem.

Think it cost him 3 or 4 euro in Aldi

KamiKazi

Rovi wrote: »

This is coming from an agricultural/industrial/car/truck point of view, so very much open to correction if motorcycle filters are different, but I'd always fit spin-on filters by running them on until they seat and then giving them another 1/4-1/2 a turn by hand to seal. I've never had a filter leak or come loose after doing this.
Filter spanners are for taking them off, as far as I'd be concerned.

Filters can and do come off, there's a reason they have to be lock wired on race bikes.

Bikerguy

So i did it today.. Jesus what a bleeding job. No tool could remove the old filter sa i had to fiddle between the pipes with hammer. screwdriver through filter and hammer finally did the job. Then i put k&N filter and used very light force to tight it up. Job done in like 1 hour... Lol.. Toped 3,7L went for spin and didnt even need to add more. If anyone wonder i used motul 5100 10w40

Thank you all for tips.

Del2005

KamiKazi wrote: »

Filters can and do come off, there's a reason they have to be lock wired on race bikes.

That's to make sure you tighten everything before you go racing:D

Race bikes are always at full or no power, so there's more vibration going through it. They make you wire everything on a race bike, rarely does a bolt or nut come loose unless it's not tighten/torqued properly on a road bike

paddy147

Del2005 wrote: »

That's to make sure you tighten everything before you go racing:D

Race bikes are always at full or no power, so there's more vibration going through it. They make you wire everything on a race bike, rarely does a bolt or nut come loose unless it's not tighten/torqued properly on a road bike

Some people just dont think like that though.....:pac::pac::D

Bikerguy

Thats a good one paddy lol

That was also only hand tight for sure!!!

paddy147

Bikerguy wrote: »

Thats a good one paddy lol

That was also only hand tight for sure!!!

I,ll give a 7 for the dismount...:pac::D

KamiKazi

Del2005 wrote: »

That's to make sure you tighten everything before you go racing:D

Race bikes are always at full or no power, so there's more vibration going through it. They make you wire everything on a race bike, rarely does a bolt or nut come loose unless it's not tighten/torqued properly on a road bike

I dunno about that, smooth track tarmac vs. sh1tty potholed public roads?

Bikerguy

KamiKazi wrote: »

I dunno about that, smooth track tarmac vs. sh1tty potholed public roads?

Well the thing about vibration is more like engine revs related then surface i guess. So pothole or not, for me its different if u going max on bike or driving through town.

I am sorted anyway and i will be buying k&n filters only as i will use wrench for removing it/replacing it.
With very little force. But at least i know that i wont loose it on highway.

Wossack

KamiKazi wrote: »

I dunno about that, smooth track tarmac vs. sh1tty potholed public roads?

think its more about doing everything possible to keep the oil in the engine, and off the track. Checking for lockwiring is also very quick for scrutineers - especially when theyve a whole grid of oil filters, drain bolts, and oil caps to check - which were no doubt all loosened and retightened very recently

KamiKazi

Wossack wrote: »

think its more about doing everything possible to keep the oil in the engine, and off the track. Checking for lockwiring is also very quick for scrutineers - especially when theyve a whole grid of oil filters, drain bolts, and oil caps to check - which were no doubt all loosened and retightened very recently

That's a fair point.

Not that I'd lockwire anything on a road bike, but I'd definitely use a wrench to give the oil filter just a little tighten past hand tight.