Questions using a DA for the first time...

satnavadays

I'm going using a Kestrel DAS-6 polisher for the first time and I just have a few questions on using it.

1) After using the medium cut pad is there need to use the finishing pad/polish afterwards or is it just to wax straight after?

2) For waxing can the finishing pad (if unused) be used or is it better to do it by hand?

Also any recommendations for a good wax, I have 'turtle-wax' but just looking for something better.

Many thanks in advance.

challengemaster

De-tar, de-ironise and clay the car before hand. Paintwork needs to be free of contamination before using a machine polisher.

It's recommended to use a sealant before a wax. Recommended sealant would be Autoglym extra gloss protection, or Chemical Guys Jetseal 109. Good waxes would be Autoglym HD wax, Collinite 476s, or Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax seems highly recommended by Curran.

All products can be bought from Irish suppliers detailingshed.com or cleancar.ie

Curran

satnavadays wrote: »

I'm going using a Kestrel DAS-6 polisher for the first time and I just have a few questions on using it.

1) After using the medium cut pad is there need to use the finishing pad/polish afterwards or is it just to wax straight after?

If you are happy with the finish that you have achieved with the medium pad, then there is no need to use the finishing pad/polish afterwards, though it will give that little bit extra shine and gloss.

satnavadays wrote: »

2) For waxing can the finishing pad (if unused) be used or is it better to do it by hand?

Also any recommendations for a good wax, I have 'turtle-wax' but just looking for something better.

Do you mean apply the wax with the DA on a finishing pad? You can use a finishing pad if you wish, but to be honest its easier to get a decent applicator pad and apply it by hand. Cant used the DA to get in around the tighter areas, like under wing mirrors, the pillars either side of the windscreen, the bumpers, etc. Also, if you choose to use the DA and you have used the finishing pad and polish, then you can also use it to apply the wax. Give it a good rinse out with water and a bit of washing up liquid. Make sure its well rinsed out and wrung out. A damp pad isnt the end of the world and makes applying wax a bit easier.

90% of getting a car looking well is in the prepartion. As you will be polishing, any wax will look good, so dont get too hung up on it.
If you'd like a recommendation; choosing a wax will depend on a few factors, the colour of your car, if you'd prefer something very durable, price, etc.

The ones Challengemaster has recommended above are all excellent choices. And I'd also follow his advice about the de-iron, de-tar and clay steps in the process to prepare the paintwork for the machine polishing!

Any other questions, fire ahead!

satnavadays

Curran wrote: »

If you are happy with the finish that you have achieved with the medium pad, then there is no need to use the finishing pad/polish afterwards, though it will give that little bit extra shine and gloss.

Thanks, I was afraid if I used the finishing polish afterwards I would be overdoing it!

90% of getting a car looking well is in the prepartion. As you will be polishing, any wax will look good, so dont get too hung up on it.
If you'd like a recommendation; choosing a wax will depend on a few factors, the colour of your car, if you'd prefer something very durable, price, etc.

The ones Challengemaster has recommended above are all excellent choices. And I'd also follow his advice about the de-iron, de-tar and clay steps in the process to prepare the paintwork for the machine polishing!

Any other questions, fire ahead!

I washed and de-tarred the car the last day but going to rewash it again and then claybar it (1st time!) before polishing. Think I'll do a few panels each day rather than rushing the whole lot in one day, just hope the weather lasts!

Curran

Definitely a job you dont want to rush! Weather is supposed to be great all week, so you might get a panel or two done every evening!

Wash and clay the panel you plan to polish. Dont do the whole car, as if you drive it, it will pick up contamination.


Want a recommendation for wax/sealant?
The colour of your car?
Would you prefer something very durable, or are you happy to top it the protection with a fresh layer every month?
Budget?

satnavadays

Curran wrote: »

Definitely a job you dont want to rush! Weather is supposed to be great all week, so you might get a panel or two done every evening!

Wash and clay the panel you plan to polish. Dont do the whole car, as if you drive it, it will pick up contamination.


Want a recommendation for wax/sealant?
The colour of your car?
Would you prefer something very durable, or are you happy to top it the protection with a fresh layer every month?
Budget?

Thanks Curran great advice.

Car is a dark blue (00 Fiesta), I'd like something that would last long but I don't mind topping it up monthly if it would make it look better overall. As for the budget, I'm prepared to pay any price for the best product!

Does the sealant last longer than the wax?

Curran

satnavadays wrote: »

Does the sealant last longer than the wax?

Generally yes, but there are some very durable waxes out there....as mentioned earlier, Collinite 476S is a very durable wax...originally designed for marine purposes.

As you will be polishing the paint work anyways, it should look great....but if you really wanted to go for a killer shine, then Chemical Guys Blacklight and top it up with JetSeal109 - the Blacklight is a kind of like a glaze with protection - so it will give a really smooth finish, with a very glossy / shiny wet look. Works really well....but I dont rate the protection it gives; its OK, but I found it needed topping up very frequently - hence why I recommend topping it up with JetSeal109.

Chemical Guys Pete's53 would be a very nice wax on that colour too - designed specifically for darker colours...use it on my own car (Black) and its very nice to work with; easy on, easy off, looks great and lasts very well.

Another great wax for the money is Autoglym HD wax....should really be more expensive...looks great on all colours and is very durable.

As said, the preparation is key, do that well and anything will look great. Just remember, its better to do 2/3 thin layers of protection that lashing on one heavy coat...durability will be better and your arms will thank you for it too!

MetzgerMeister

challengemaster wrote: »

De-tar, de-ironise and clay the car before hand. Paintwork needs to be free of contamination before using a machine polisher.

It's recommended to use a sealant before a wax. Recommended sealant would be Autoglym extra gloss protection, or Chemical Guys Jetseal 109. Good waxes would be Autoglym HD wax, Collinite 476s, or Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax seems highly recommended by Curran.

All products can be bought from Irish suppliers detailingshed.com or cleancar.ie

It's good to see you learned something from me :pac:

satnavadays

Curran wrote: »

Generally yes, but there are some very durable waxes out there....as mentioned earlier, Collinite 476S is a very durable wax...originally designed for marine purposes.

As you will be polishing the paint work anyways, it should look great....but if you really wanted to go for a killer shine, then Chemical Guys Blacklight and top it up with JetSeal109 - the Blacklight is a kind of like a glaze with protection - so it will give a really smooth finish, with a very glossy / shiny wet look. Works really well....but I dont rate the protection it gives; its OK, but I found it needed topping up very frequently - hence why I recommend topping it up with JetSeal109.

Chemical Guys Pete's53 would be a very nice wax on that colour too - designed specifically for darker colours...use it on my own car (Black) and its very nice to work with; easy on, easy off, looks great and lasts very well.

Another great wax for the money is Autoglym HD wax....should really be more expensive...looks great on all colours and is very durable.

As said, the preparation is key, do that well and anything will look great. Just remember, its better to do 2/3 thin layers of protection that lashing on one heavy coat...durability will be better and your arms will thank you for it too!

Thanks a million, will look into them. Now looks like it will be tomorrow before I start ... visitors coming now

odhuill

Any of you guy know how much it is to get a new windscreen for a 04 vw polo

MetzgerMeister

odhuill wrote: »

Any of you guy know how much it is to get a new windscreen for a 04 vw polo

Very wrong forum, even more wrong thread.

You don't pay, your insurance company does if you have windscreen cover as part of your insurance policy.

Supergurrier

Make sure it's plugged in.

Aha see im know STUFF !

:pac:

biko

odhuill , hope that answer works for you. If you need further help start a new thread in Motors forum unless you plan to DIY it in which case this forum is right.

MetzgerMeister

biko wrote: »

odhuill , hope that answer works for you. If you need further help start a new thread in Motors forum unless you plan to DIY it in which case this forum is right.

If he's asking how much a windscreen is, I would dread to think what a DIY windscreen fit would be like :eek:

dgt

DIY windscreen? Yeah I've done it, messy job, leave to the windscreen guys

As for a da well all I can say is don't do it in the sun, roasting hot panels and polish are not a great combo!

satnavadays

Just tried the DA on the bonnet and was very disappointed with the results, it's practically the same! I tried using both the medium and heavy pad/polish but it didn't seem to make a difference. I went by the you-tube videos of up/down and left/right for about 3/4 passes on speed 6. I put some pressure on also but it didn't make a difference.

Curran

What pads and polish are you using??

HJL

satnavadays wrote: »

I went by the you-tube videos of up/down and left/right for about 3/4 passes on speed 6.

I got a DA at Xmas and only got to use it for the first time last week, only got the roof done, results seem decent for a first attempt on paint that is always described as hard.

What polishes are you using?

And when you say 3/4 passes at speed 6 is that all in total?

If all you did was 4 passes then I don't think the polish was worked enough, I worked my polish until it was all broken down and you just about tell it was on the paint i.e. it was all gone clear. Also i worked in small areas at a time, i divided the roof into 4 sections.

satnavadays

Curran wrote: »

What pads and polish are you using??

HJL wrote: »

I got a DA at Xmas and only got to use it for the first time last week, only got the roof done, results seem decent for a first attempt on paint that is always described as hard.

What polishes are you using?

And when you say 3/4 passes at speed 6 is that all in total?

If all you did was 4 passes then I don't think the polish was worked enough, I worked my polish until it was all broken down and you just about tell it was on the paint i.e. it was all gone clear. Also i worked in small areas at a time, i divided the roof into 4 sections.

I used the medium cut pad with the medium cut polish and when that didn't work I used the heavy cut polish on the medium cut pad. I did a total of 6 passes (3 left/right and 3 up/down). Maybe the polish wasn't fully worked into the part I did, is much pressure needed?

MetzgerMeister

You (like all of us did) have a lot to learn! It takes serious patience to correct a car. It doesn't just happen after 3 or 4 passes.

What car is it and what brand of polish and abrasive grade are you using? Also, what speed is the D/A set at and what D/A is it?

satnavadays

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

You (like all of us did) have a lot to learn! It takes serious patience to correct a car. It doesn't just happen after 3 or 4 passes.

What car is it and what brand of polish and abrasive grade are you using? Also, what speed is the D/A set at and what D/A is it?

It's a 00 Ford Fiesta and it's the Krestel DAS 6 polisher (full kit on cleancar.ie). The DA was at speed 6.

MetzgerMeister

Is it the Menzerna polish kit?

satnavadays

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Is it the Menzerna polish kit?

Yea thats the one

MetzgerMeister

What grade are you using? What code is on the bottle?

satnavadays

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

What grade are you using? What code is on the bottle?

2500 pf is on the bottle - yellow wrapper

MetzgerMeister

The quickest and most effective polish is FG400. It's so good, you don't need a finishing polish afterwards.

Curran

What size area are you working a pass on?
If its too large an area the polish wont get worked correctly...as the polish will cool down. Work in too small and its possible to dry it out too...though tough to do with a DA...but if the panels was in direct sunlight like today it would happen.
As previously said the polish needs to be worked / broken down until clear and then worked a bit more.
Perhaps the paint work is REALLY bad...I've worked with paint so bad from brush washes, that I was even surprised how it didnt respond even with a rotary. The colour, gloss and deep shine returned straight away obviously, but correction was minimal. Sometimes it takes a LOT of effort even with a rotary, so with a DA is going to be even more drawn out.

satnavadays

Curran wrote: »

What size area are you working a pass on?
If its too large an area the polish wont get worked correctly...as the polish will cool down. Work in too small and its possible to dry it out too...though tough to do with a DA...but if the panels was in direct sunlight like today it would happen.
As previously said the polish needs to be worked / broken down until clear and then worked a bit more.
Perhaps the paint work is REALLY bad...I've worked with paint so bad from brush washes, that I was even surprised how it didnt respond even with a rotary. The colour, gloss and deep shine returned straight away obviously, but correction was minimal. Sometimes it takes a LOT of effort even with a rotary, so with a DA is going to be even more drawn out.

I've the bonnet divided into 6 sections so it's a fairly small area. I polished it in a shed so it wasn't in direct sun, however maybe I didn't give it enough time to work in the polish as The bonnet wasnt clear under the polish.

Roughly how long should it take to do a bonnet time wise and it's really bad (had a sponge for at least 7 years)

Curran

Could take you 2-3 hours or more maybe, on very bad paint!

Many people under estimate the work that goes into a detail...and assume its over priced for the work. Can sometimes be 30+ hours polishing a whole car, with a rotary, to get full correction, thats before prep and protection are taken into account.

MetzgerMeister

Curran wrote: »

Could take you 2-3 hours or more maybe, on very bad paint!

Many people under estimate the work that goes into a detail...and assume its over priced for the work. Can sometimes be 30+ hours polishing a whole car, with a rotary, to get full correction, thats before prep and protection are taken into account.

Amen bro

myshirt

Curran wrote: »

Could take you 2-3 hours or more maybe, on very bad paint!

Many people under estimate the work that goes into a detail...and assume its over priced for the work. Can sometimes be 30+ hours polishing a whole car, with a rotary, to get full correction, thats before prep and protection are taken into account.

But, but... you enjoy every minute of it

Curran

myshirt wrote: »

But, but... you enjoy every minute of it

Sometimes

Other times it can be a nightmare....but at the end of it all, when the car gets it's protection put on, and it's wheels out into the daylight, it makes it all worth while!
It's great standing back and think...DA-YUM, it looks good! :cool:

sebastianlieken

Say for instance;

I fully detailed my car about a month ago (rinse, wash, rinse, de-tar, wash, rinse, clay, wash, rinse, dry, 3 layers of SRP, and a layer of AG EGP). If I want to wash my car again now - what's my best plan of action?

Do I want to remove the sealant, polish again, and seal again? or do I just snow foam, wash, and rinse?

I dont want to do the whole process again (yet) because it took me the bones of a whole weekend to do. The car still looks very shiney and very well, it's just a layer of dust on it really.

MetzgerMeister

No you don't want to remove it! That's supposed to last as long as possible.

If you're going to snowfoam, use a diluted foam and when washing, use a small amount of shampoo. The less of these 2 things you use, the less chance there is of stripping anything off.

Also do a panel at a time and don't let the shampoo dry in or it will remove everything.

Curran

In future, you'd be better doing one coat of SRP and 3 of EGP. Polish offers no protection. 3 layers of EGP should last a good while.

MetzgerMeister

Curran wrote: »

In future, you'd be better doing one coat of SRP and 3 of EGP. Polish offers no protection. 3 layers of EGP should last a good while.

Yeah but 3 layers of SRP will fill ALL THE HOLES including the panel gaps

sebastianlieken

So if i give it a light snow foam and clean... dont suppose I can top it with another fresh layer of egp at this stage? maybe even a wax?

MetzgerMeister

sebastianlieken wrote: »

So if i give it a light snow foam and clean... dont suppose I can top it with another fresh layer of egp at this stage? maybe even a wax?

You can top it up with any protectant/sealant/wax you want but it may not be necessary. When you hose it down for the final time, you'll see what the beading is like but I would often apply another coat of wax for the craic whether it needed it or not

Just don't use polish because that will be a waste of time and will make sheeeeet of your protective layer.