How Do You Cut Straight Lines When Mowing A Meadow?

mikefoxo

Whenever I cut a field I always end up leaving long, thin triangles, which really p*sses me off:mad: Are there any tips or tricks to cutting a meadow?

agriman27

Usually do a good few rounds around the outside of the field until there is room to turn at the headland to turn on what's cut. Then split it up down the middle just liftin mower at the ends not stopping and reversing at corners

Sam Kade

Mow the headlands then open a land down the center. Then mow from the center out until the land gets small enough to mow both sides. If you want to cut a straight line pick a point (tree or bush) on the ditch on the far side of the field and head for that point, if you are going a bit left or right of that point keep going instead of trying to aim for the marker.

Manoffeeling

Sam Kade wrote: »

pick a point

but not the exhaust

newholland mad

Splash out on a GPS problem solved, you won't know yourself for spreading fert spraying grassland etc

Muckit

newholland mad wrote: »

Splash out on a GPS problem solved, you won't know yourself for spreading fert spraying grassland etc

What kinda money you talking about for a bog standard job?

newholland mad

1300 about 3 years ago, think they have got cheaper since, id say 900 upwards

mikefoxo

Sam Kade wrote: »

Mow the headlands then open a land down the center. Then mow from the center out until the land gets small enough to mow both sides. If you want to cut a straight line pick a point (tree or bush) on the ditch on the far side of the field and head for that point, if you are going a bit left or right of that point keep going instead of trying to aim for the marker.

That's what I try to do. But say I move down 30 yards from where I've just mown to start a new piece.I'll line up, pick a point that I think is 30 yards down from the last point I mowed on the other side, and go for that. But invariably it ends up being 35 yards, so as I move in closer I'm left with these wedges of meadow. That's what I'm trying to solve

mf240

mikefoxo wrote: »

That's what I try to do. But say I move down 30 yards from where I've just mown to start a new piece.I'll line up, pick a point that I think is 30 yards down from the last point I mowed on the other side, and go for that. But invariably it ends up being 35 yards, so as I move in closer I'm left with these wedges of meadow. That's what I'm trying to solve

Can't solve that it's genetic.

mf240

Only messing when passing a tree or other marker on one end count the seconds it takes to get to corner of standing grass then go to other end and from that corner at same speed go across headland for same number of seconds the head straight for tree/other marker.

Rovi

mikefoxo wrote: »

That's what I try to do. But say I move down 30 yards from where I've just mown to start a new piece.I'll line up, pick a point that I think is 30 yards down from the last point I mowed on the other side, and go for that. But invariably it ends up being 35 yards, so as I move in closer I'm left with these wedges of meadow. That's what I'm trying to solve

As you get towards the end of the plot you'll be able to see if one end is narrower than the other, and you can 'cheat' by running the mower 'thinner' (for want of a better term) as you run out towards that end.
It'll take 4 or 5 runs to correct out an error of 1 mower width though, so you'll need to have been pretty close in the first place.
The farther you go from the headland to open out the centre, the harder it is to keep an eye on the edge and hold a course parallel to it. Opening the centre closer to the edge makes it easier, but you'll then have to make more openings to get the whole way across the field.
mf240's suggestion of counting off time from a well defined landmark and repeating the count at the other end is an excellent way of getting it pretty close.
You COULD get out and pace off distances to landmarks or even use marker poles like the competition ploughing lads use, but you'd be wasting a lot of time, to say nothing of the slagging you'd likely get from any onlookers
It IS something you get good at judging by eye, but you need to be doing a lot of it.

TOP TIP: If you can, mow out the body of the field PARALLEL to the road; that way only you and the other crew members see any wobbly lines or triangular plots

lefthooker

Get yourself a centre pivot mower, reversible mowing:pac:

mikefoxo

I had considered the marking poles idea, but it goes against my lazy nature I'll try the counting seconds idea this 'summer' and see how we get on. Wish me luck!!

Sam Kade

mikefoxo wrote: »

I had considered the marking poles idea, but it goes against my lazy nature I'll try the counting seconds idea this 'summer' and see how we get on. Wish me luck!!

I was with a contractor one time and he had a young fella mowing. I don't know how he managed it but he could mow the squarest field in Ireland and end up with triangles and short swarths all over it. It took extra time picking up after him twisting and turning with the harvester and tractors. He left him on the mower for the season diesel was cheap back then.

stanflt

I find if you drive straight you'll have straight lines


Just my tuppence worth