Spray Gun For Oxide Paint

Surfn

could anybody recommend a cheapish spray gun for oxide paint that will be sprayed onto farm sheds. its just for my own use on my own sheds

iverjohnston

Surfn wrote: »

could anybody recommend a cheapish spray gun for oxide paint that will be sprayed onto farm sheds. its just for my own use on my own sheds

I tried both a Wagner airless and a conventional spray gun. Both required too much thinning. Used a soft sweeping brush and found it really quick. Hot day best, and if you can heat the paint a little it gos on easier.

Sam Kade

Our local plant hire used to rent sprayers out years ago but gave up because if you stop spraying with oxide for 10 minutes the paint will dry and clog the sprayer. You need to keep going from start to finish then wash out the sprayer immediately. Two problems they are too expensive for one off jobs and you can't hire them anymore.

aujopimur

Lidl or Aldi have gravity spray guns, €20.

Sam Kade

aujopimur wrote: »

Lidl or Aldi have gravity spray guns, €20.

Not very practical for painting hay sheds even if there was a remote chance that oxide paint wouldn't clog the sprayer.

Surfn

thanks for the info lads, looks like the soft sweeping brush could be the way to go, id have thought though it might flake quicker using the brush than been sprayed on

iverjohnston

Hi Surfn,
It shouldn't flake if the prep. is good enough. Also use a very minimum of thinners, less than 10%. Not practical to paint side sheeting with the sweeping brush however, more up your arm than on the shed!

freedominacup

One of these might do the job. Used to use them for heavy masonry paint. Air is always on keeping nozzle clear once compressor is running. Pulling the trigger releases the paint. Very simple bit of kit and easy to clean.

http://www.compressedaircentre.ie/large-hopper-texture-gravity-p-7.html?osCsid=3c7b8de48b8be657741ae47f8e99040b#.UaMm_JymVG0

Sorry:o

Surfn

freedominacup wrote: »

One of these might do the job. Used to use them for heavy masonry paint. Air is always on keeping nozzle clear once compressor is running. Pulling the trigger releases the paint. Very simple bit of kit and easy to clean.

do you have a link to what you mean

enricoh

hi, i sprayed my sheds with a spray gun from genfitt 20e ish no probs. u have to use thinners with the oxide n a 100l minimum compressor. i wouldnt have the patience for a brush!

Sam Kade

enricoh wrote: »

hi, i sprayed my sheds with a spray gun from genfitt 20e ish no probs. u have to use thinners with the oxide n a 100l minimum compressor. i wouldnt have the patience for a brush!

Were you able to spray it standing up or did you have to go on your knees?

enricoh

standing up. u have to wait for a day with no wind as its a pain in the arse if windy but apart from that hassle free enough

reilig

Bought a spray gun in lidl last year for 40 euro. Have painted several sheds with it so far. Never a problem with it clogging. It does a lovely finish and it can be cleaned in a couple of minutes. It's a parkside airless one.

iano93

reilig wrote: »

Bought a spray gun in lidl last year for 40 euro. Have painted several sheds with it so far. Never a problem with it clogging. It does a lovely finish and it can be cleaned in a couple of minutes. It's a parkside airless one.

I dont suppose you know the make and model (German im sure :rolleyes: ) of the sprayer you bought. I could do with buying something similar, I have a hayshed to paint.

Figerty

iverjohnston wrote: »

Hi Surfn,
It shouldn't flake if the prep. is good enough. Also use a very minimum of thinners, less than 10%. Not practical to paint side sheeting with the sweeping brush however, more up your arm than on the shed!

If it's the old corrugated iron then you will get a brush to match the corrugations in the paint shop. Stick it on a brush and you are away in a hack. Better than the spray can.

reilig

iano93 wrote: »

I dont suppose you know the make and model (German im sure :rolleyes: ) of the sprayer you bought. I could do with buying something similar, I have a hayshed to paint.

http://www.lidl-service.com/cps/rde/SID-2E588977-C13EF79B/lsp/hs.xsl/product.html?id=15611828&title=

Sam Kade

reilig wrote: »

Bought a spray gun in lidl last year for 40 euro. Have painted several sheds with it so far. Never a problem with it clogging. It does a lovely finish and it can be cleaned in a couple of minutes. It's a parkside airless one.

Would it not break your heart from constant refilling or would one fill cover a large area? Surely you would have to thin out oxide paint very well for it to work. Does it create a spray mist?

MikeSoys

Hi
I'm looking for advise, i'm going to repaint some old farm sheds and I want to do it myself. I believe they have never being done before, and were installed back in the early 70s. I was thinking of using a power washer to prep before painting- is there a long handle wire type brush one can get for such jobs, where i could roughly wire-brush [like a yard brush] over the roof before cleaning with the power washer(the power washer is about 3000psi) - or is that a waste of time?.
on the painting itself I have used a paint called syn-oxide for a few iron gates etc on the farm in the past and maybe it would be good enough for the corrugated roof(I'm thinking of rolling on generously whatever paint I use - as i guess this is better than spraying it one)?...or should i put on rust killer paint first followed by the finish paint...if so what's the best rust killer paint people use for farming etc.. can apply before the best known corrugated roof paint, and whats the longest lasting paint to use ...
any advice appreciated...

farawaygrass

MikeSoys wrote: »

Hi
I'm looking for advise, i'm going to repaint some old farm sheds and I want to do it myself. I believe they have never being done before, and were installed back in the early 70s. I was thinking of using a power washer to prep before painting- is there a long handle wire type brush one can get for such jobs, where i could roughly wire-brush [like a yard brush] over the roof before cleaning with the power washer(the power washer is about 3000psi) - or is that a waste of time?.
on the painting itself I have used a paint called syn-oxide for a few iron gates etc on the farm in the past and maybe it would be good enough for the corrugated roof(I'm thinking of rolling on generously whatever paint I use - as i guess this is better than spraying it one)?...or should i put on rust killer paint first followed by the finish paint...if so what's the best rust killer paint people use for farming etc.. can apply before the best known corrugated roof paint, and whats the longest lasting paint to use ...
any advice appreciated...

sorry for bringing up old thread. have sheeting that needs doing the same as yourself. just wondering did you start the job and how you get on?

trabpc

Would love to know answer to this too. Is there a tool like a powered wire brush with grooves to suit galvanize. Would sand blasting be too extreme?

MikeSoys

No didn't start yet... prob next month

Bactidiaryl

And another highjacker. Any good deals out there on 200 litre drum of oxide. I need about 2 of them.

Surfn

ive my painting done back a couple of weeks ago now, hired a cherrypicker because of how dangerous some of it was. spent a day power washing ''turbo nozzle'', i put the paint on with a soft bristle sweeping brush, its way better than the corrugated rollers, well it was for the kinda sheets i was painting. i didnt thin the paint down at all, was very hot the days i was at it so it seemed pretty runny to me. i used castle paint. id vote for the soft bristle sweeping brush, its speedy enough and does a good job.

farawaygrass

surfn did you get away with just the one coat?

Surfn

farawaygrass wrote: »

surfn did you get away with just the one coat?

1 coat of castle oxide paint done a great job, it was the dark grey. definately no call for a second coat

Birtles

suppose you could use the spray guns for applying white wash to walls also? have a heap of outhouses to do and the thought of putting a brush to them is too much.....

We usually whitewash with watered down weather shield rather than hydrated lime of old, so paint consistency etc for the Gun shouldn't be a problem?

Also read on another post of a fella using the knapsack sprayer on the back with watered down emulsion to spray rough walls. do you think that could wrok or has anyone used a similar system?

1chippy

A shed with a really rusted roof need priming first. the turbo nozzle is good to clean the rust down on most roofs. Putting on non thinned paint is not as good a job as people think. lighter sprays will adhere better. when its put on withouth a thinner it will kinda lump and it will be a year or too down the line that the thicker sections will start to peel.
I use a wagner professional sprayer for whitewashing as well. very handy rather than getting completly destroyed with lime. I doubt a backsprayer would work that well, id say the nozzles would be a bit fine.

farawaygrass

1chippy wrote: »

A shed with a really rusted roof need priming first. the turbo nozzle is good to clean the rust down on most roofs.

do you feel safe standing on a galvanized roof powerwashing or any precautions that ye take? i have a hay shed with lean too of it, one of them rounded roof ones. hard to make a start on it!

1chippy

if you dont feel safe on it dont go up. nerves are a bigger safety hazard than a lot of the more obvious ones. id also recommend a good pair of boots. some of the boots out there give far better traction than others. I am well used to heights so have no real issue. watch out for painted perspex. ive seen a few lads just paint over it and the next time its just a hazard.

farawaygrass

1chippy wrote: »

if you dont feel safe on it dont go up. nerves are a bigger safety hazard than a lot of the more obvious ones. id also recommend a good pair of boots. some of the boots out there give far better traction than others. I am well used to heights so have no real issue. watch out for painted perspex. ive seen a few lads just paint over it and the next time its just a hazard.

agree 100% about nerves being a bigger safety hazard. i'm normally good with with jobs like that, no fear of heights or sticky situations but wound the water on the galvanize not make it slippy?

1chippy

farawaygrass wrote: »

agree 100% about nerves being a bigger safety hazard. i'm normally good with with jobs like that, no fear of heights or sticky situations but wound the water on the galvanize not make it slippy?

If theres a slimy skin on it it will. good boots i'll mention again. If its rusty just worry about going through it.

Conor556

Spent the last few days painting a haybarn and lime washing walls, used no thinner in the oxide paint and only used a sweeping brush with a soft head to put it on with, and the same with the lime wash. Should I use thinner the next time?

iliketomoveit

farawaygrass wrote: »

do you feel safe standing on a galvanized roof powerwashing or any precautions that ye take? i have a hay shed with lean too of it, one of them rounded roof ones. hard to make a start on it!

Yes you feel perfectly safe once you are up on it, its getting up and down it that you will be nervous. But by tying your ladder to girders (to stop them sliding R to L) and putting buckets of paint at the bottom of them (to stop them kicking out) you can make going up and down very safe. Also if you have a front loader you can put a pallet on the spikes, (tying it to the spike too) put a ladder to that, and then paint from the pallet. It makes it much safer and easier to do the sides of haysheds

Also it helps if you are at the edge or just feel a bit of vertigo or something, to sit and paint like this:

And be very careful not to walk backwards onto perspex or over the edge

farawaygrass wrote: »

agree 100% about nerves being a bigger safety hazard. i'm normally good with with jobs like that, no fear of heights or sticky situations but wound the water on the galvanize not make it slippy?

When its clean, water on the sheeting is fine, however when the sheeting is dirty and it is damp or wet it is lethal. What I usually do first is clean a patch for me to stand on, and then avoid standing on the dirty sheeting as it gets wet from powerwashing.

nashmach

Unlike the last poster, please do jot use a pallet, too many have been injured after going through what was believed to be a sound pallet

Very valid point about the skylights too.

iliketomoveit

nashmach wrote: »

Unlike the last poster, please do jot use a pallet, too many have been injured after going through what was believed to be a sound pallet

Very valid point about the skylights too.

Yea I know what you mean, they turn to ****e very quickly when left outside. If the pallet is fresh though then go for it

Rovi

1chippy wrote: »

watch out for painted perspex. ive seen a few lads just paint over it and the next time its just a hazard.

BIG +1 on this!

A relative of mine is in one the emergency services, and he tells me that every year they get several calls out to accident scenes where a person has fallen through painted over perspex sheets. It's a well known and regularly occurring hazard.

Birtles

Rovi wrote: »

BIG +1 on this!

A relative of mine is in one the emergency services, and he tells me that every year they get several calls out to accident scenes where a person has fallen through painted over perspex sheets. It's a well known and regularly occurring hazard.

Do the latest building regs still allow for these type of sheets to be installed in new buildings? surely they should be some type of re-enforcement through the plastic corrugated sheets or even a layer of light mesh installed under the the sheet?

iverjohnston

No restriction on installing them, as far as I know. Do you have to put a sheet of wire mesh under the Velux in your house? Building reg's cannot be expected to counter human error.

red bull

supposed to use higher grade than ordinary perspex , built a shed 2009 had these sheets fitted as per spec, 10ft sheet about €100 you can walk on them no prob

Birtles

Rovi wrote: »

BIG +1 on this!

A relative of mine is in one the emergency services, and he tells me that every year they get several calls out to accident scenes where a person has fallen through painted over perspex sheets. It's a well known and regularly occurring hazard.

iverjohnston wrote: »

No restriction on installing them, as far as I know. Do you have to put a sheet of wire mesh under the Velux in your house? Building reg's cannot be expected to counter human error.

no but velux are not installed on flat or nearly flat roofs without an up-stand and they have a natural lip/rise on these. problem arises for perspex sheets is when painted over, covered in debris or slime, indistinguishable for the rest of the roof. not a problem with Velux's.
If you are installing roof-lights (which these clear sheets are on a shed) on a commercial unit, they have to be of material that you can walk on or have a hand rail around same.

question was if Dept spec'd and part grant aided sheds were are being built shouldn't they have some some of fall protection, stong enough to take persons weight?
or even in planning guidelines?

razor8

reilig wrote: »

http://www.lidl-service.com/cps/rde/SID-2E588977-C13EF79B/lsp/hs.xsl/product.html?id=15611828&title=

could you spray a 4 railed garden fence with one of these?

red bull

Birtles wrote: »

no but velux are not installed on flat or nearly flat roofs without an up-stand and they have a natural lip/rise on these. problem arises for perspex sheets is when painted over, covered in debris or slime, indistinguishable for the rest of the roof. not a problem with Velux's.
If you are installing roof-lights (which these clear sheets are on a shed) on a commercial unit, they have to be of material that you can walk on or have a hand rail around same.

question was if Dept spec'd and part grant aided sheds were are being built shouldn't they have some some of fall protection, stong enough to take persons weight?
or even in planning guidelines?

it was in the spec according to my supplier

Birtles

red bull wrote: »

it was in the spec according to my supplier

interesting, must dig out a copy of the last grant spec. shed built in 2009. 20 NR std sheets in roof. Thanks