CarPlan TR.IX

Top Dog

I was looking for something to tackle the back end of our Shogun after it got destroyed in metal shards when the rear brake pads expired. A bit of searching online and I saw a lot of posts recommending Iron-X for the job. Checked cleancar.ie and they were out of stock, but while looking I spotted this new(ish) TR.IX product - supposed to be a blend of Iron-X & Tar-X. Decided to take the plunge so ordered a bottle from eBay which arrived on Saturday (wasn't due till Wednesday).

Since it was somewhat dry today I decided to give it a lash on the worst affected wheel anyway and see if it lived up to its claims. Had watched a few videos on youtube to make sure I'd do it right so I set about giving the wheel a quick wash before application. The brown you see is all the metal filings that came off the bare brake pads. :eek:



Applied the TR.IX and allowed it to work away for 5 mins while I made a cuppa. Got all excited as it quickly turned to purple indicating that it was definitely doing something anyway.



After the 5 mins were up I got out my bristle brush and aggitated it as much as I could, before rinsing off and applying a second dose. Again agitated after a few mins, rinsed off, and was left with this. Better than it was anyway, though I was a bit disappointed with how much crap was still left on the inside of the rim.



Since I was out there I decided to have a look and see how it'd be on the paintwork. I only rinsed off the rear quarter before spraying the TR.IX on.

Before ...



Applied ...





Again did the same process as the wheel;
Apply
Allow to work for 5 mins
Agitate
Rinse
Re-apply
Wait again
Re-agitate
Rinse





Now I've no previous experience with Iron-X, Tar-X or this combi product, so I've nothing to compare it to, but I have to say I was a little disappointed by the end results. Perhaps I was expecting too much from it - but at £20 a litre I thought it'd be the bee's knees. Anyone else tried it able to give an opinion?

Here's the rear bumper corner - and those black spots you see are tar spots that the product left behind after 2 applications!



So it looks like I won't be retiring my AG Tar & Glue remover just yet.

Hoping (weather permitting) to do a bit more on Wednesday as the paintwork is in a shocking condition at the moment, so will reserve final judgement till then.

Plan for Wednesday is wash, de-tar, TR.IX, clay, polish & if I have time/weather then some form of sealant on top. Not looking forward to it though as last time I clayed it I think I spent about 12-14 hours over 2 days getting it all done (lotta bodywork on a Shogun) :eek:

TomMc

While you have achieved reasonably good results, I'd recommend that next time you apply the product on a completely dry surface, not a wet one. Stick with a motor trade not consumer tar remover if that's what the Jeep requires (wear safety gear), then use IronX (or Trix) and finally clay, if it is still necessary. The inside of wheels can be hit and miss. Older wheels do come up like new when given multiple steps including tar & iron x type products and claying (and elbow grease), but if neglected sometimes no matter what you do they can remain grubby or tarnished in places.

You know how clean a car's paintwork looks when washed, de-tarred and even clayed (but not yet polished). Most people would feel the paint was as clean as you could possibly get it. Then hit it with IronX and see all the fallout that is removed by the colour indicator. That's where these type of products excel. They remove what's embedded in the paint yet largely invisible to the naked eye. They are gentler on paintwork than claying and more effective. Just smell a bit like stink bombs in use.

Top Dog

Cheers for that Tom.

What do you mean by motor trade as opposed to consumer tar remover? I've been using the AutoGlym tar remover for a few years now and always been happy enough with the results it's provided.

TomMc

The tar removers sold in 5 litre cans to the trade (like Autosmart Tardis or Concept Chemicals Tar & Glue remover) are more potent than the ones sold in the shops to the general public. They only require to be sprayed on and let dwell for a few minutes then a light wipe down to remove stubborn tar spots. Consumer products like AG's intensive tar remover or Meguiar's bug and tar remover are much weaker so require more agitation after the dwell time to remove tar. But if you do not have much to remove and the weaker ones have worked for you in the past, stick with them. While the trade ones do the job more effectively, they are overkill at times and also pose more of a health risk to the user. Most tar removers contain nasty chemicals so always wear suitable gloves and eye protection.

Top Dog

While I may not do it this time, how would I go about getting one of the more potent ones down the line if they're only sold to the trade?

TomMc

Buy from an online trader if they stock same or else

Autosmart http://www.smartgroup.ie/contact/index.php (they have reps around the country with vans on the road),

Concept Chemicals http://www.team.ie/centers_display.php?tkey=15&county=all (Contact one of the Autozone shops in Cork to check stock).

Curran

Generally products that are merged as a combo product, never work as well as two separate products....unless they are used regularly or on lights soiled areas.
While the product you have mentioned has done a reasonable job, you are still disappointed - I feel had you went out and gone the whole hog and got a dedicated fallout remover and tar remover (or used the one you had), then you certainly would have been more impressed.

Iron X is one of the class leaders in the de-iron / fall out remover product range. Iron Cleanse is also excellent, and slightly better in my opinion...others on here that have used both, may back me up on that. Iron Cleanse is more like a gel and as a result it clings to the surface better and works into the surface longer as it doesnt run off. The fact that it also doesnt run as quick means that it doesnt bleed purple as quick, and sometimes people dismiss the product as not working, when in fact its working better. Id choose Iron Cleanse over Iron X, but Id gladly use Iron X if I was short on Iron Cleanse, as its a great product too. I've yet to come across any other similar product that have a patch on these, bar Wolf's De-Con Gel, but its playing catch up!

Top Dog

That'd explain a bit alright Curran.

Next time I'm ordering I might just go with regular Iron-X or Iron Cleanse instead.

Almighty stink off the rear tyre today though after the sun had been baking on it - so I know now what TomMc alluded to with the stink bomb reference!

Curran

Also, Iron X and Iron Cleanse can be left to dwell longer than 5 mins. If in direct sunlight and the surface being applied to is hot, then it might dry out in or sooner than 5 mins. If it starts to dry out, its best to rinse it off.

I left Iron Cleanse on a car (wife's ) for over an hour in direct sunlight, although it was the middle of Dec. Came back and the car was brown...thought Id overdone some testing this time. Power washed straight off with no issue.

Not sure about Iron X, but Iron Cleanse is water based, so can be diluted with distilled water 1:1 for a weaker strength solution, for more regular use on lightly soiled surfaces.

MetzgerMeister

I have used Iron Cleanse and IronX and I will never buy IronX again knowing how good Iron Cleanse is.

Iron Cleanse available HERE