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Cereals sown after grass

  • 19-05-2013 9:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭


    What are the advantages of growing a cereal where the previous crop was permanent pasture? What cost savings can be made? Low N requirement in the sown crops is one. Eyespot pressure low in wheat sown after grass. Any savings to be made on weed/ disease control in cereals sown after grass?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 328 ✭✭newholland mad


    often cereal crops after lea can be the most worst crops of your harvest, every trace element deficiency under the sun + if the grass was mown potash will be a problem no matter how much you put on its not available to the crop. Any time I rent lea for tillage it has to be for 5 + years. First year you lose money break even 2nd year then hopefully good crops from then on


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 931 ✭✭✭Manoffeeling


    often cereal crops after lea can be the most worst crops of your harvest, every trace element deficiency under the sun + if the grass was mown potash will be a problem no matter how much you put on its not available to the crop. Any time I rent lea for tillage it has to be for 5 + years. First year you lose money break even 2nd year then hopefully good crops from then on

    That is the complete opposite of what I have been told! I'm going reseeding the farm but have been approached by a guy to sow WW in it for a couple of years as its old lea. It wouldn't be the best of ground, but he reckons old lea is ideal for WW. :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    That is the complete opposite of what I have been told! I'm going reseeding the farm but have been approached by a guy to sow WW in it for a couple of years as its old lea. It wouldn't be the best of ground, but he reckons old lea is ideal for WW. :confused:

    Why don't you sow thw WW yourself and keep it for wholecrop/crimp. Do between 20% & 30% every year for a few years. You can keep your stock numbers up and it's much easier to reseed a stubble than a lea.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 931 ✭✭✭Manoffeeling


    Why don't you sow thw WW yourself and keep it for wholecrop/crimp. Do between 20% & 30% every year for a few years. You can keep your stock numbers up and it's much easier to reseed a stubble than a lea.

    I don't have any machinery or knowledge of chemicals. I would have to hire a contractor for all the work. No money in that crack. I agree with your very valid point if I had the machinery and facilities.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    I don't have any machinery or knowledge of chemicals. I would have to hire a contractor for all the work. No money in that crack. I agree with your very valid point if I had the machinery and facilities.

    One of the neighbours does a split with a local contractor/tillage farmer. He ends up with half his sown area for WW and the contractor gets grain from other half having supllied all of the work and chemicals. Neighbour supplies fert. It's in contractors interest to maximise yields and manage crop correctly.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 931 ✭✭✭Manoffeeling


    I'm a kinda at that with a fairly sound guy with fodder beet. Fingers crossed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 328 ✭✭newholland mad


    That is the complete opposite of what I have been told! I'm going reseeding the farm but have been approached by a guy to sow WW in it for a couple of years as its old lea. It wouldn't be the best of ground, but he reckons old lea is ideal for WW. :confused:
    Well that's my experience anyway, perhaps if you posted that on the tillage section of f4f you might get different answers! Margins are so tight you cant "chance" growing ww above all crops on marginal land.
    The teagasc costs for growing ww are 1361/ha excluding fixed costs and if you end up with 2 or 3t/ac you be badly out of pocket, so deff make a deal with him and let him take the hit


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