150w inverter from lidl..

del88

Hi anyone know if the 150w inverter on sale in lidl tomorrow would run this tv

http://www.powercity.ie/?par=10-10-WP19LE&pages=1&prod=WP19LE&brands=WALKER&image=

niloc1951

del88 wrote: »

Hi anyone know if the 150w inverter on sale in lidl tomorrow would run this tv

http://www.powercity.ie/?par=10-10-WP19LE&pages=1&prod=WP19LE&brands=WALKER&image=

I run a 19" plus Sky Box from a 75 watt inverter, so the Lidl one should have buckets to spare.

BTW, make sure the Walker has a good viewing angle quite a few 19" are quite poor and price isn't always a reliable guide. I notice the model you mentioned above doesn't include it in its specifications.

In the confines of a motorhome where viewers are quite close and can be looking at the screen from significantly different angles it's important the the screen has at least a 160° horizontal angle.

See HERE for a bit more info in the subject.

del88

niloc1951 wrote: »

I run a 19" plus Sky Box from a 75 watt inverter, so the Lidl one should have buckets to spare.

BTW, make sure the Walker has a good viewing angle quite a few 19" are quite poor and price isn't always a reliable guide. I notice the model you mentioned above doesn't include it in its specifications.

In the confines of a motorhome where viewers are quite close and can be looking at the screen from significantly different angles it's important the the screen has at least a 160° horizontal angle.

See HERE for a bit more info in the subject.

Cheers for that...as a matter on interest what battery bank have you got and how long does it run your tv for..
Thanks

It's a 25watt TV so a 150watt inverter will run it with 125watts to spare.

niloc1951

del88 wrote: »

Cheers for that...as a matter on interest what battery bank have you got and how long does it run your tv for..
Thanks

Two 90ah Varta Semi-traction. SEE HERE

In winter I get two to three days, that includes lighting (all LED), heating, tv/sat box, etc.
In summer I usually get five or six days (less lighting and heating)

I try not to let the voltage fall below 12.1V (about 55% discharge) as that will shorten the life of the battery, mine are now eight years in use. A USEFUL CHART

On average we use the tv/sat box about two or three hours per day.

kelbal

del88 wrote: »

Hi anyone know if the 150w inverter on sale in lidl tomorrow would run this tv

http://www.powercity.ie/?par=10-10-WP19LE&pages=1&prod=WP19LE&brands=WALKER&image=

You're giving the battery extra work that you don't need to I reckon. I'm assuming that Walker TV uses a power pack similar to laptop, that brings the 240V mains down to 12V, ie its not a direct cable from the mains to the back of the TV. Assuming thats the case, whats the point in converting from 12V up to mains with an inverter, then plugging in the TV's power pack to bring it back down to 12V again?
I got this cable....
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/12V-LED-and-LCD-TV-to-cigarette-lighter-adapter-lead-/151040354128?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item232ab4e750#ht_1174wt_1271
....I got it from the same seller on that link. So I just have a direct link from the 12V cigarette port to the TV. Less consumption on the battery. Just check the connector, but if its the round power connection, I'd be fairly confident that cable will do - does the job for me. I did a before & after test, and definitely got noticable extra time out of the battery by doing this

kelbal

Just as a follow up to my last post. If you also want to run a Sat box, then get a cigarette socket double adaptor.....

http://www.partsformotorhomes.com/Electrical-Plugs-&-Sockets/2-WAY-CIGAR-SOCKET-ADAPTOR/p-10440-12907/

With the double adaptor in place I connect my TV straight into one port with the cable I mentioned, then use the inverter out of the other port for the sat box.

niloc1951

Be very careful about connecting TV's with 12 volt inputs directly to the vehicle system.
Those designed to work directly off 12v vehicle systems are quite different from those designed to work off an external transformer.

Those which are sold with direct connectors to vehicle systems are built to tolerate voltage fluctuations from as low as 10.5v to as high as 14.5v, remember that such a fluctuation can occur between a battery running low and when on charge.

Those sold with external mains transformers are designed to run on the design output voltage of the transformer and may be damaged or have their life shortened by exposure to the high or low voltages common in vehicles.

If an inverter is not a first choice it is best to replace the external mains transformer with ONE OF THESE UNITS

Aidan_M_M

That's a good point (as usual!) by niloc, the main thing is not to start the engine or plug in the charger while the tv is on.

niloc1951

niloc1951 wrote: »

If an inverter is not a first choice it is best to replace the external mains transformer with ONE OF THESE UNITS

They're all very small.
I wouldn't consider one below 15 amp...especially if it has multiple sockets.

I've seen truckers with larger fan cooled 24v-12v regulators that output a steady 12.4v. I'm sure there's similar about for straight 12v.

Aidan_M_M

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

the main thing is not to start the engine or plug in the charger while the tv is on.

..or any other generators. Like a mains charger, solar controller, wind controller...anything that fluctuates the battery voltage outside the accepted listed range of the device you are running. Another large load for example would be harmful in the opposite direction.

Also beware that just because a device may have worked before outside the rated electrical tolerances does not mean it is compatible. Minor differences in under/over powering equipment can have deteriorative effects that will shorten their service life.

The benefit of "wasting" charge through an inverter is the stability and versatility it provides.

Another way to make energy savings is to have 2 maybe 3 inverters (maybe even a pure sine wave one included should you have the need). Ideally these would have scaled ratings for the devices you want to run and win back the operating inefficiencies by not running an over-demanding inverter.

For example; a 75 watt inverter for tv, sat-box and surround sound, a 300+ watt for laptops, misc. electronics, and a 1500+ watt for domestic appliances like hair-driers, kettles, power tools etc. (if you have sufficient batteries to take a load like that)

Ps. I hate beepy noises of machines telling me they know better than I could, so I pulled the bell off my inverter and use a delightfully quiet voltmeter. If you've got more batteries than you can spend in one night then I'd definitely recommend it unless your inverter lives in a distant location.
Pouring super-glue into the alarm works to muffle them.

niloc1951

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

They're all very small.
I wouldn't consider one below 15 amp...especially if it has multiple sockets.

I've seen truckers with larger fan cooled 24v-12v regulators that output a steady 12.4v. I'm sure there's similar about for straight 12v.

Not sure what you mean by 'very small', they are specifically designed as a replacement for mains powered units running flat panel TV's which generally are rated at less than 30 watts. my 19" is only 17 watts

niloc1951

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

.....................................For example; ..................... a 300+ watt for laptops, misc. electronics............

Not sure about your laptop Sir L. but mine runs quite happily on one of THESE, again a purpose designed unit which is rated to supply 80 watts.

I also have a version of ONE OF THESE which also has a 5V USB output. It looks after my camera, phone, walkie talkies and any other low power electronics which require charging from time to time. It saves carrying around a selection of cigarette lighter socket chargers.

niloc1951

niloc1951 wrote: »

I mean the max, power rating is quite low. My laptop alone is 120watts @ 12volt

I've a fairly similar set up but my laptop pack min voltage is 12.0, really I should get one with with a lower tolerance but I'd rather spend that money on a universal regulator...it's too easy blow electronics on DC. I'm down a lighting controller at the moment and have no LED strip lights because of a surge in mA.

Sir Liamalot

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

They're all very small.
I wouldn't consider one below 15 amp...especially if it has multiple sockets.

Little apology for minor thread hijacking, the link Niloc posted is ideal for the OP setup, but too little for me.

It took me a long time to find this..but curiosity got the better of me.

16amp voltage stabilizer

In most cases you'd save some money just buying several Amperor ones, provided you can split your continuous loads accordingly.

The Samlex looks expensive but I've already spent over the value of it in fried electronics.

{edit for anyone with flickering/pulsing LEDs, this could be a solution}