Rattle when press clutch

myshirt

I am having nothing but bad luck and trouble with my e60...

When I drop the clutch while idling in neutral (say before take off at traffic lights) the transmission rattles and makes knocking noises. When I let it up and get into first and take off, it's fine, no noise.

So, sitting in my drive today, just tested it, and it was the same. 4 out of 5 times, just sitting stationary and pressing in the clutch, it rattles and knocks. The fifth time it sounds clean.

Any ideas?

I am clueless...

tossy

DMf or Clutch release bearing or something along those lines would be my guess.

myshirt

I hope to god it's not the dmf... that will cost won't it...

Ultimately, I will have to go to a mechanic, I can't ignore this.

Has anyone ever heard of such an issue before, and how did it work out for them?

Are throwout bearings expensive? Labour intensive?

Balls anyway!

testarossa40

Almost certainly DMF - sounds just like how mine (albeit E46) was acting up before I had to get it changed. Another sign might be the gear-stick vibrating more than "normal" when idling. To potentially compound the expense, some will recommend changing the clutch at the same time in line with the "when one goes the other is sure to follow" theory and avoid 2 separate hefty labour bills. Budget up to ~€1700 worst case (Replacing clutch & DMF together with OEM parts & main dealer labour). But absolutely shop around (and confirm the diagnosis).

burke027

Do these weekly and yeah it will be the release bearing and flywheel. Not really as expensive as they used to be. Anyone that does Bmw,s will have that done in Afew hours. I think the last kit we got for the the flywheel and clutch kit was about 800 for the parts. But as I said anyone that deals in bm,s will have it done in no time. If u need n e further questions jus ask

myshirt

burke027 wrote: »

Do these weekly and yeah it will be the release bearing and flywheel. Not really as expensive as they used to be. Anyone that does Bmw,s will have that done in Afew hours. I think the last kit we got for the the flywheel and clutch kit was about 800 for the parts. But as I said anyone that deals in bm,s will have it done in no time. If u need n e further questions jus ask

Thank you Burke.

Yerman took it for a spin and said it was the dmf. Quoted 1,100 to fix, parts and labour incl clutch kit. Said not to drive it anymore.

I spoke to a German engineer who worked with audi, now an i.t guy, and he thinks it can't be the flywheel when I described it. I trust this guy, but he knows the price of nothing,.and he won't hear bad about german cars. So I have to factor that in.

Any advice or comments?
Can I drive it a bit more...
What are the implications of doing so, risks, etc, advice..

Opinion on cost..

Does anyone know a good indy in Limerick?

I want to avoid the fella who just doesn't know, and would rather get you to pay for options he tries as he tries them... or who goes for a complete unnecessary overhaul just to keep himself covered...

Sorry guys, just nervous and negative thinking..

The Pontiac

Why did he say not to drive it anymore? People drive for months and months with a rattly DMF. What damage can you do?

I assume you will be changing DMF, Clutch and release bearing?

mickdw

myshirt wrote: »

I spoke to a German engineer who worked with audi, now an i.t guy, and he thinks it can't be the flywheel when I described it. I trust this guy, but he knows the price of nothing,.and he won't hear bad about german cars. So I have to factor that in.

Any advice or comments?
Can I drive it a bit more...
What are the implications of doing so, risks, etc, advice..

Opinion on cost..

Does anyone know a good indy in Limerick?

I want to avoid the fella who just doesn't know, and would rather get you to pay for options he tries as he tries them... or who goes for a complete unnecessary overhaul just to keep himself covered...

Sorry guys, just nervous and negative thinking..

The IT guy doesnt know what he is talking about.

tossy

The Pontiac wrote: »

Why did he say not to drive it anymore? People drive for months and months with a rattly DMF. What damage can you do?

Well the ultimately the DMf could disintegrate and take the gearbox with it.

Maybe the mechanic who looked at the car is an experienced sort and decided that the DMF was completely shagged and advised not driving or maybe he was just chancing his arm and trying to scare the OP into spending a few bob.

myshirt

mickdw wrote: »

The IT guy doesnt know what he is talking about.

Yeah, I think so to be honest... mechanical engineer however... just a crank.

His point was that the problem was when the clutch was down, and that there was no rattling when it was up and the clutch plate was against the flywheel.

The Pontiac wrote: »

Why did he say not to drive it anymore? People drive for months and months with a rattly DMF. What damage can you do?

I assume you will be changing DMF, Clutch and release bearing?

Yes, I will have to.

I am afraid to drive it to be honest. It sounds worse today than it did yesterday.

He said that I could damage the housing, cause damage to the engine..

myshirt

tossy wrote: »

Well the ultimately the DMf could disintegrate and take the gearbox with it.

Maybe the mechanic who looked at the car is an experienced sort and decided that the DMF was completely shagged and advised not driving or maybe he was just chancing his arm and trying to scare the OP into spending a few bob.

Yeah maybe... I don't know... nice guy, seemed honest...

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic/indie/whatever in Limerick City, West Limerick... what's the consensus..

myshirt

tossy wrote: »

Well the ultimately the DMf could disintegrate and take the gearbox with it.

Maybe the mechanic who looked at the car is an experienced sort and decided that the DMF was completely shagged and advised not driving or maybe he was just chancing his arm and trying to scare the OP into spending a few bob.

Just to add, car drives perfectly and goes through the gears fine. It's not slipping. It's as normal. The only place I have the problem is when clutching while stopping/slowing down, or
clutching on the ready for move off (say when the lights have went green and there are a few cars ahead of me). It really is rattling and gurgling here and making baby jesus cry.

maidhc

myshirt wrote: »

Just to add, car drives perfectly and goes through the gears fine. It's not slipping. It's as normal. The only place I have the problem is when clutching while stopping/slowing down, or
clutching on the ready for move off (say when the lights have went green and there are a few cars ahead of me). It really is rattling and gurgling here and making baby jesus cry.

Those were the exact symptoms of my focus when the flywheel failed!

SpannerMonkey

that's definitely a dual mass flywheel , those are the exact symptoms they sound fine fully engaged but half way they rattle like hell , if it goes really bad it can take the gearbox with it so id say get it done when you can .

The Pontiac

Why not buy a 4 piece kit from the UK, and find a good indie to do it for cash? You should get the full kit for €550, and maybe €250 labour.

That's what I did with my Saab. Perfect job, and saved a few quid. Saab is a big job as whole subframe has to be removed. Might not be the the case with the Beemer e60 (It isn't with the VAG engines anyway, much easier job). What engine is it?

You'd be looking at getting OEM parts, probably Luk/Sachs. Ebay.co.uk is your friend and Parcel Motel for free delivery for those UK only items.

myshirt

The Pontiac wrote: »

Why not buy a 4 piece kit from the UK, and find a good indie to do it for cash? You should get the full kit for €550, and maybe €250 labour.

That's what I did with my Saab. Perfect job, and saved a few quid. Saab is a big job as whole subframe has to be removed. Might not be the the case with the Beemer e60 (It isn't with the VAG engines anyway, much easier job). What engine is it?

You'd be looking at getting OEM parts, probably Luk/Sachs. Ebay.co.uk is your friend and Parcel Motel for free delivery for those UK only items.

Guys, what is the difference in these flywheels? I don't get it, apart from the part numbers...

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/engine-parts/crankshaft-drive/flywheel

The Pontiac

myshirt wrote: »

Guys, what is the difference in these flywheels? I don't get it, apart from the part numbers...

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/engine-parts/crankshaft-drive/flywheel

That page isn't coming up, it's asking for reg.

You'll be looking at buying OEM parts, the same parts BMW use. Usually Luk or Sachs.

What is the exact engine?

When I was buying mine, prices were astronomical here. I bought from the UK and saved a few hundred. Just make sure you buy the correct kit for that engine.

myshirt

The Pontiac wrote: »

That page isn't coming up, it's asking for reg.

You'll be looking at buying OEM parts, the same parts BMW use. Usually Luk or Sachs.

What is the exact engine?

When I was buying mine, prices were astronomical here. I bought from the UK and saved a few hundred. Just make sure you buy the correct kit for that engine.

I have attached a print out.

The engine is an N47 I beleive.... NX32 manufacturer code...

How can I determine the proper part number to order..

Does anyone know a good indie in Limerick?

The Pontiac

Not much info on brands etc. from that link on GSF.

What year is the car, as they have different flywheels depending on the year?

Around £200 for the flywheel (free postage). Seems to be cheaper to buy seperate, rather the whole kit for some reason.

myshirt

The car is 2008 e60 520d N47 engine 177bhp

Both parts in my attached document look like they will fill the same void. I don't get why one is £200 sterling cheaper than the other.

I have been quoted over a grand. I will pay a fair price, but just want comfort. He said it would take 4 hours at €70... thats fine.. maybe a tenner or so expensive per hr but I don't give a sh!t... that leaves a clutch kit and flywheel at nearly €850 though.

Looking at ebay and taking the advice of you guys, looks like I could get the parts for c. €550 max...

The Pontiac

Maybe the one that was £200 cheaper is not OEM? i'd only fit OEM, as they're parts you don't want to be taking chances on.

When I was buying mine, it was pretty straight forward. Just bought the whole 4 piece and had part numbers etc. Got the original parts and no problems. Car is like new.

The BMW seems to be a minefield (for me anyway). Maybe go on to the Irish BMW forum and seek advice re. parts, mechanic in Limerick etc. And the UK forums and ask where to buy.

Looking at the clutch kits and there seems to be a big variation in price. Some kits include the release bearing to complete the 4 piece and others don't. Some have different parts no. etc. You'll have to do soeme research. But you can get parts cheaper in the UK a lot of the time. Much cheaper.

Manuel

Just bumping this up rather than created a new thread for a quick question ...

I had this DMF problem with my Galaxy and got the lot replaced.

Since I got my new clutch, in the morning finding the low gears can be a bit sticky/stubborn - unlike before. Changing to the higher gears is fine, and once on the road, even changing 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 1st at junctions is okay. So it's worst when I start the car in the morning.

It's a bit annoying, and I'm just wondering can this be rectified easily with a bit of grease/oil, or is it more serious? Did my mechanic do a shoddy job?

Thanks a million.
/M.