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New a carpenter to hang a projector screen with no holes in wall

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  • 29-04-2013 2:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭


    Hey All,

    I need a carpenter that can put a frame on both sides of the fireplace below so that I can hang a projector screen. The house is rented so I cannot put any holes in the wall, it's an old house so I'm not sure I'd want to anyway. A friend mentioned he'd seen some wood work that was between two walls and when you pulled down on the frame, it'd go tighter, hopefully you'll know what I mean, I can visualize it, but not build it myself. I have added a photo of the fittings at the end of the projector also. Any idea how much this would cost and any takers for the job? I'm assuming with the correct dimensions these could be made off site and just dropped in place? Any other suggestions I'd love to know. Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 397 ✭✭Boiled-egg


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Hey All,

    I need a carpenter that can put a frame on both sides of the fireplace below so that I can hang a projector screen. The house is rented so I cannot put any holes in the wall, it's an old house so I'm not sure I'd want to anyway. A friend mentioned he'd seen some wood work that was between two walls and when you pulled down on the frame, it'd go tighter, hopefully you'll know what I mean, I can visualize it, but not build it myself. I have added a photo of the fittings at the end of the projector also. Any idea how much this would cost and any takers for the job? I'm assuming with the correct dimensions these could be made off site and just dropped in place? Any other suggestions I'd love to know. Thanks.

    Ask your landlord for permission to mount directly to wall, you can fill and sand the holes when you leave and give the wall a lick of paint. The time you save in mounting the screen will easily cover the price of a coat of paint. To mount it directly it will take less than 30 mins.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Hey All,

    I need a carpenter that can put a frame on both sides of the fireplace below so that I can hang a projector screen. The house is rented so I cannot put any holes in the wall, it's an old house so I'm not sure I'd want to anyway. A friend mentioned he'd seen some wood work that was between two walls and when you pulled down on the frame, it'd go tighter, hopefully you'll know what I mean, I can visualize it, but not build it myself. I have added a photo of the fittings at the end of the projector also. Any idea how much this would cost and any takers for the job? I'm assuming with the correct dimensions these could be made off site and just dropped in place? Any other suggestions I'd love to know. Thanks.


    Where are you based I have done something similar before in an office in Dublin :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,790 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    What about Eye hooks in the ceiling ?

    With the correct Plugs / Mounts they would be perfect and can be removed easily and polyfilled and painted when your leaving the tenancy.


    Cheaper and much handier alternative. plus you can take the projector down when required.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Hey All,

    I need a carpenter that can put a frame on both sides of the fireplace below so that I can hang a projector screen. The house is rented so I cannot put any holes in the wall, it's an old house so I'm not sure I'd want to anyway. A friend mentioned he'd seen some wood work that was between two walls and when you pulled down on the frame, it'd go tighter, hopefully you'll know what I mean, I can visualize it, but not build it myself. I have added a photo of the fittings at the end of the projector also. Any idea how much this would cost and any takers for the job? I'm assuming with the correct dimensions these could be made off site and just dropped in place? Any other suggestions I'd love to know. Thanks.


    You need your landlords permission 1st.

    Do that with out his or her knowladge and if its not allowed then its bye bye to your deposit money.;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,790 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    paddy147 wrote: »
    You need your landlords permission 1st.

    Do that with out his or her knowladge and if its not allowed then its bye bye to your deposit money.;)

    Not if its returned to the state it was in before the lease is up.

    If put a whole TV unit up on the wall. Landlord made a note on inspection and just detailed that everything needs to be returned to state when lease is up. (which of course i will do) No 'permission' required.



    This is normal on the continent but here landlords 'think' its not someones home during the rental agreement.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    Thanks for all the replies everyone, much appreciated, answers below.
    Boiled-egg wrote: »
    Ask your landlord for permission to mount directly to wall, you can fill and sand the holes when you leave and give the wall a lick of paint. The time you save in mounting the screen will easily cover the price of a coat of paint. To mount it directly it will take less than 30 mins.

    It's an old Victorian house, behind the walls is basically dust, I'd don't think they'd hold, it would probably be costly to get that to work.
    Carpenter wrote: »
    Where are you based I have done something similar before in an office in Dublin :D

    I'm in Glasnevin, does that work? If so I'll ping you my mobile number?
    listermint wrote: »
    What about Eye hooks in the ceiling ?

    With the correct Plugs / Mounts they would be perfect and can be removed easily and polyfilled and painted when your leaving the tenancy.


    Cheaper and much handier alternative. plus you can take the projector down when required.

    That's a really good idea as I could put the wires over the beams in the roof, but I would need the landlords permission which I really want to avoid. I'll look into this if the wooden frame option is too expensive.
    paddy147 wrote: »
    You need your landlords permission 1st.

    Do that with out his or her knowladge and if its not allowed then its bye bye to your deposit money.;)

    Really? Even if I don't put any holes in anything?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Thanks for all the replies everyone, much appreciated, answers below.



    It's an old Victorian house, behind the walls is basically dust, I'd don't think they'd hold, it would probably be costly to get that to work.



    I'm in Glasnevin, does that work? If so I'll ping you my mobile number?



    That's a really good idea as I could put the wires over the beams in the roof, but I would need the landlords permission which I really want to avoid. I'll look into this if the wooden frame option is too expensive.



    Really? Even if I don't put any holes in anything?


    Did you sign a written contract with the landlord??

    If so then you may need to read through it so see any exclusions.

    And tell the landlord what you are proposing to do aswell,go and have a quick chat with him/her.

    You dont want something like this to be a reason for the landlord possibly withholding your deposit or kicking up a big fuss,when he or she or the letting agent makes an inspection visit.


    Just trying to be helpful here,thats all.:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Did you sign a written contract with the landlord??

    If so then you may need to read through it so see any exclusions.

    And tell the landlord what you are proposing to do aswell,go and have a quick chat with him/her.

    You dont want something like this to be a reason for the landlord possibly withholding your deposit or kicking up a big fuss,when he or she or the letting agent makes an inspection visit.


    Just trying to be helpful here,thats all.:)

    Good idea Paddy, will do, thanks for the advice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Thanks for all the replies everyone, much appreciated, answers below.



    It's an old Victorian house, behind the walls is basically dust, I'd don't think they'd hold, it would probably be costly to get that to work.



    I'm in Glasnevin, does that work? If so I'll ping you my mobile number?



    That's a really good idea as I could put the wires over the beams in the roof, but I would need the landlords permission which I really want to avoid. I'll look into this if the wooden frame option is too expensive.



    Really? Even if I don't put any holes in anything?

    Pm me we can have a chat anyway


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    How wide is the room? you could stretch a timber across 99% of the width needed then have a threaded bar & nut attached to the end of the timber. Screw out the bar until it jams against the 2nd wall.

    If you've ever seen an expandable pullup bar this is the basic idea of what I'm talking about - remember a projector screen weighs very little

    Make sure you put felt on each end so it doesn't mark the wall.
    If the wall is bending as you tighten stop! you may need to find one of the uprights behind the plaster to give yourself more strength.

    Now you can screw to the timber and there will be no hole in the LL's property


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  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    How wide is the room? you could stretch a timber across 99% of the width needed then have a threaded bar & nut attached to the end of the timber. Screw out the bar until it jams against the 2nd wall.

    If you've ever seen an expandable pullup bar this is the basic idea of what I'm talking about - remember a projector screen weighs very little

    Make sure you put felt on each end so it doesn't mark the wall.
    If the wall is bending as you tighten stop! you may need to find one of the uprights behind the plaster to give yourself more strength.

    Now you can screw to the timber and there will be no hole in the LL's property

    Hey,

    Thanks for the suggestions. The room is just over 3M wide, the screen just a has a few cm give on each side and weighs in at 15KG so it's actually pretty heavy. My first thoughts were to get somehting like you are saying, 2 of them, one for each side of the fireplace, but they'd need to be quite strong and anything I came across that was pre-fabricated was coming in quite expensive, 150 each side, and they didn't include anything to actually mount the screen.

    What you mentioned about having a bolt that screws into a long plank of wood that could be screwed out to wedge it into place, I can picture it exactly, is that something that would have to be custom made?, or can they be bought of the shelf. Also, is something like that used in scaffolding, except with two metal pieces, for the legs of the scaffold?

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    Keithchap wrote: »
    Hey,

    Thanks for the suggestions. The room is just over 3M wide, the screen just a has a few cm give on each side and weighs in at 15KG so it's actually pretty heavy.

    The room might be 3m wide but you only have to span between wall & chimney breast on each side, then use something like a shelf bracket to bring something out past the front of the breast so you can screw the screen brackets onto, this makes your life a lot easier as the longer a piece of any material the more likely it will flex and the thicker you have to use, here it might only be 1m long so something as light as 4" X 1" with the 4" in the vertical plane might do.

    If you have a friend who works with metal you could ask them if they have scrap bits of 2" box iron lying around and then use a 2" X 2" timber - that way the timber (planed down a little) will fit into the box iron and can simply be screwed in place


    My first thoughts were to get somehting like you are saying, 2 of them, one for each side of the fireplace, but they'd need to be quite strong and anything I came across that was pre-fabricated was coming in quite expensive, 150 each side, and they didn't include anything to actually mount the screen.

    What you mentioned about having a bolt that screws into a long plank of wood that could be screwed out to wedge it into place, I can picture it exactly, is that something that would have to be custom made?, or can they be bought of the shelf. Also, is something like that used in scaffolding, except with two metal pieces, for the legs of the scaffold?

    What your talking about for scaffolding - if its the legs at the bottom of the scaffold that can be lengthened/shortened to adjust the leg length is exactly the idea that I mean, you don't need anything that heavy though. The reason I'm talking about using timber is it is easier to screw into

    Thanks.


    I hope the attachemnt makes sense, I'm at work and only have word to draw with here, if you have any friends who have a welder and access to scrap steel they could make this for free, failing that a metal supplier will sell you
    • 2" box iron in 1m lengths
    • offcuts of plate steel - 3mm thick or 5 mm thick will do, size ~150mm X 50mm or thereabouts (use whatever they have)
      Get 4 long bolts, 100mm length and M18 thread size as well as 4 nuts


    Cut the box into 4 equal lengths, drill a few holes along each to screw through the box into the timber.
    Weld caps across the ends of the 4 pieces of box
    The first two will have the 150mm X 50mm backing plates welded on (150mm vertically).
    The second two will have enough to cover the open end of the box.
    Drill the second two a hole in the centre big enough for the bolt to go in
    Weld the head of the bolt to the 50mm X 50mm backing plates
    Put 2 nuts on each bolt and thread them up close to the bolt head loosely so they are out of the way
    Now work out the length of the timber you need, if you measure correctly then you will only need a little of the bolt length to take up the distance to the wall when you tighten the nut closest to the box iron
    When you've tightened the 1st nut and your happy with the placing of the bar tighten the 2nd against the first while holding the 1st steady - this locks one nut against the other and they can't loosen

    Hopefully this makes sense, at least it all does in my head anyway :-). Pity your not in Cork I could show you better in person


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,061 ✭✭✭gutteruu


    Can you not just display it on the chimney as is. My projector displays on my chimney breast without a screen. Some projectors even have the option to adjust for the colour the wall is painted.

    Just a thought.


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    I hope the attachemnt makes sense, I'm at work and only have word to draw with here, if you have any friends who have a welder and access to scrap steel they could make this for free, failing that a metal supplier will sell you
    • 2" box iron in 1m lengths
    • offcuts of plate steel - 3mm thick or 5 mm thick will do, size ~150mm X 50mm or thereabouts (use whatever they have)
      Get 4 long bolts, 100mm length and M18 thread size as well as 4 nuts


    Cut the box into 4 equal lengths, drill a few holes along each to screw through the box into the timber.
    Weld caps across the ends of the 4 pieces of box
    The first two will have the 150mm X 50mm backing plates welded on (150mm vertically).
    The second two will have enough to cover the open end of the box.
    Drill the second two a hole in the centre big enough for the bolt to go in
    Weld the head of the bolt to the 50mm X 50mm backing plates
    Put 2 nuts on each bolt and thread them up close to the bolt head loosely so they are out of the way
    Now work out the length of the timber you need, if you measure correctly then you will only need a little of the bolt length to take up the distance to the wall when you tighten the nut closest to the box iron
    When you've tightened the 1st nut and your happy with the placing of the bar tighten the 2nd against the first while holding the 1st steady - this locks one nut against the other and they can't loosen

    Hopefully this makes sense, at least it all does in my head anyway :-). Pity your not in Cork I could show you better in person

    Wow, thanks for that, that looks really cool, but for someone that doesn't do this stuff a lot, it would take me a fair while to build.

    I was talking to carpenter who posted earlier in the thread, he has suggested a simple solution that is using an adhesive to stick two pieces of mdf to the wall, with the two pieces of mdf glued on either end of a custom cut piece of 4*4 wood (or similiar), one of these on each side of the fireplace, he has done a similar job before and it worked. He is going to do it for me so I'm going to go with that so hopefully it works out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Keithchap


    gutteruu wrote: »
    Can you not just display it on the chimney as is. My projector displays on my chimney breast without a screen. Some projectors even have the option to adjust for the colour the wall is painted.

    Just a thought.

    Thanks for the input, I'm actually projecting on the wall at the moment, just on the side wall, and it is fine. If the wall I want to project to was flat I wouldn't have even gotten a screen. But I want to project a screen the whole width of the wall, I would loose about 1/3 of the screen size if I just projected on the fireplace itself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    I hope it works out for you, We've a projector in the house and it makes a big difference to watching a film, it's like being at a cinema between the suround sound & the projector


  • Registered Users Posts: 277 ✭✭slpower01


    Would adhesive against paint/plaster not chip the plaster when it comes time to remove?? surely securing the timber with screws and fixings would be MUCH easier to patch up at a later date??


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