Possible clutch issue 04 Focus...can I test before I take it to the garage?

athtrasna

Have a 04 Ford Focus (1.6 petrol) with about 74,000 miles on the clock. Drove Dublin-Cork at the weekend and noticed that the engine was revving higher than normal at 100-120kmph, thought it was sluggish to take off too.

On the way back I took a different route and had to go through a few small towns necessitating stopping and starting. I found the car to have very little power in 1st-3rd gears, much slower 1-60mph than usual. Once it got to speed it was fine. Have used it locally today and still 1st to 3rd is slow to pick up speed but once it gets speed up it's grand.

Of course I've done the usual Google search and it looks like a likely culprit is the clutch...which will prove horrendously expensive. Some sites say that starting the car in 4th or 5th gear is a test, if it cuts out it's not the clutch but if it stays running it's not? Is that true? I'm nervous that a garage will say it's the clutch anyway because it's such an expensive replair.

Won't be able to get it to a garage before next week and need it in the meantime. Is it ok to drive?

Alanstrainor

Clutch isn't massively expensive. But I guess that depends on your perspective.

When taking off, the symptoms of a slipping clutch are for the revs to rise up considerably but the speed of the car won't catch up as quickly as it should. Any mechanic will be able to tell you within 30 seconds of sitting in the car.

athtrasna

Thanks...might be able to sleep tonight knowing that it might not be so bad. Google can be scary!

I wouldn't mind but the car has been serviced twice in the past 9 months! Serviced in August by regular garage before NCT (but full service), which it passed. Was home in January and my Dad insisted on getting his mechanic to service it (as a thank you for taking time off to help with something). No sign of any mechanical issues either time.

Alanstrainor

Clutch is a wear and tear item, any service wont prevent it from wearing out unfortunately.

pajero12

Simple test, Put the car in first with the clutch down, hold the brake to the floor and let the clutch up, is the car doesn't stall, the clutch is on it's last legs!

pajero12

pajero12 wrote: »

Simple test, Put the car in first with the clutch down, hold the brake to the floor and let the clutch up, is the car doesn't stall, the clutch is on it's last legs!

Better off in 5th.

athtrasna

pajero12 wrote: »

Simple test, Put the car in first with the clutch down, hold the brake to the floor and let the clutch up, is the car doesn't stall, the clutch is on it's last legs!

Did that twice this morning. First time (cold, at start up) the engine kept running. On the drive to work it didn't seem as sluggish as it had and had more power. Tried it again when I got to the car park at work and it cut out. Now I'm really confused. Will try the other suggestions tonight.

If the clutch is going I'd prefer to replace it than risk it going altogether but at the same time I don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.

Thanks for all the advice. I generally don't play the "I'm female so I don't know" card but when it comes to cars, checking the oil and changing the wipers is about as technical as I get!

Plug

Is the bite point of the clutch pedal very high? I mean if the clutch is fine its probably just a coil or a fuel pump(rare). We won't know till you get a mechanic to have a look.

athtrasna

Plug wrote: »

Is the bite point of the clutch pedal very high? I mean if the clutch is fine its probably just a coil or a fuel pump(rare). We won't know till you get a mechanic to have a look.

Bite point is quite high, compared to my ex's S40 which I drove a fair bit.

Replaced coils at 60,000 miles.

Earliest I can get car to garage is next week so I'll see how it goes..will only be driving 20 miles a day a few days between now and then. Fingers crossed all is well.

pajero12

RoverJames wrote: »

Better off in 5th.

+1
This makes far more sense!

athtrasna

Tried it in 5th, had the same issue as with 1st. When I tried it after starting it, it struggled but didn't cut out. Tried it when I arrived at work and it cut out immediately.

Looks like the writing is on the wall, now the issue is whether to invest up to 10% of the value of the car and sort this, or cut my losses and replace the car. If I could get a good deal on a new car, even slightly smaller I might be able to get the maths to work out.

kravmaga

your car is probably worth €3,500 book value.

I would seriously look at changing it or trading it in, trade in value may only be €2,500.

I have a similiar situation to yours whereby both front shocks need to be replaced and will cost me a few bob to replace.

Sorting it makes financial sense if the car is otherwise sound, cutting your losses is lunacy imo.

athtrasna

My thinking on replacing it is car will have to have annual NCT from next year, and I could also half my car tax while picking up something a little more fuel efficient.

Having said that, the car is paid off, spacious, generally reliable and comfortable. Might gamble on the introduction of a new scrappage scheme next year (being mooted in some media) and hold off for now.

athtrasna

athtrasna wrote: »

My thinking on replacing it is ............

Replace away, sort the clutch regardless though.

athtrasna

€475 quote (including discount) - does that sound right?

Bigus

Sounds a bit dear , nearly would be cheaper from a ford main dealer , check.

George Dalton

It's about the going rate for the 3 part kit including concentric slave cylinder. Maybe a touch on the expensive side but certainly not over the top.

athtrasna

2 more quotes today €400 & €635. 2 more to call me back on Monday. Will be going back to my own garage at the end of the process to see if they will match the cheaper ones. I've given them thousands over the past decade and two cars...if they try to screw me now, that's that business gone forever.

George Dalton

athtrasna wrote: »

2 more quotes today €400 & €635. 2 more to call me back on Monday. Will be going back to my own garage at the end of the process to see if they will match the cheaper ones. I've given them thousands over the past decade and two cars...if they try to screw me now, that's that business gone forever.

Just because your regular garage is €75 more expensive than the cheapest quote you got does not mean they are screwing you over.

Make sure you have all the details for the quotes you are getting. There is no point in comparing prices if they are not like for like. Make sure the parts are of comparable quality, make sure the same parts are being changed, you should be getting clutch disc, pressure plate, concentric slave cylinder, gearbox oil and brake/clutch fluid.

Also, personally speaking, I wouldn't entertain someone wanting me to match a cheaper price from another garage unless they had a fully detailed quote in writing. There are a lot of variables when it comes to these kind of jobs so a price given over the phone isn't enough information to go on.

athtrasna

George Dalton wrote: »

Just because your regular garage is €75 more expensive than the cheapest quote you got does not mean they are screwing you over.

Make sure you have all the details for the quotes you are getting. There is no point in comparing prices if they are not like for like. Make sure the parts are of comparable quality, make sure the same parts are being changed, you should be getting clutch disc, pressure plate, concentric slave cylinder, gearbox oil and brake/clutch fluid.

Also, personally speaking, I wouldn't entertain someone wanting me to match a cheaper price from another garage unless they had a fully detailed quote in writing. There are a lot of variables when it comes to these kind of jobs so a price given over the phone isn't enough information to go on.

I actually have a cheaper quote still, a "cash" job, but I don't feel confident that I would be getting the best from them.

My regular place changed a lot of staff a while back and I've noticed prices have generally gone up. Before I used to feel I got good value, which is why I'm sceptical of this price. They also have sample prices on their website for clutch replacement on several car types and my quote is significantly higher than any of them. While I know prices vary as does the work involved depending on car models..I'm starting to wonder if I was a guy, would the quote be so high.

George Dalton

The reason your cars clutch costs more to replace than other similar cars such as a Golf or a Corolla of the same year and engine size is the fact that your car uses a different type of clutch release bearing which is more expensive than a conventional bearing. This is the concentric slave cylinder that I posted about above.

If you look at the prices of the clutch kit on parts websites such as Micksgarage you will see that your clutch is more expensive than most other similar cars. For the 3 part kit for your car from Micksgarage will cost you €265. The 3 part kit for a Corolla is €146.

athtrasna

Thanks for this info. I hate playing the "I'm a girl and don't really get this stuff" card but it's true in this case. Wanted to do a basic car maintenance course a few years ago but my OH put his foot down. He was convinced I'd want to change a tyre on the side of the road in the middle of the night (probably true) - so made sure I had breakdown cover instead

athtrasna

To end the saga. Contacted my own garage, not asking them to match the cheaper quotes but to see if they could do anything on the price. Was asked to fax in a quote including brand of clutch and they'd see what they could do. Did that, was told they'd call me back. After 4 days waiting, I booked it in elsewhere and got it done today. Car drives like a new car and my garage of 9 years has lost a customer.