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Riello 70/90 or 90/120

  • 27-03-2013 1:00am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭


    Hi,
    I have a Firebird Heatac 70/90, the riello burner fuel pump has siezed, Instead of paying 100e for new pump just gonna buy new burner and use old 1 for spares in future. Was thinking of going for the riello 90/120. Question is, is it better to go for the 90/120 burner? both burners are the same price, will both fit my boiler? House is 4 bed semi just over 1700sq feet 12 rads. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Thanks...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    drayer wrote: »
    Hi,
    I have a Firebird Heatac 70/90, the riello burner fuel pump has siezed, Instead of paying 100e for new pump just gonna buy new burner and use old 1 for spares in future. Was thinking of going for the riello 90/120. Question is, is it better to go for the 90/120 burner? both burners are the same price, will both fit my boiler? House is 4 bed semi just over 1700sq feet 12 rads. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Thanks...

    How do you know the fuel pump has siezed ?

    I think it needs to be asked if you have the know how or equipment to set up a burner, because without it it matters not because either will not be set to run to its best. Do you have Flue Gas Analysis results from your original burner, Nozzle size, oil pressure ???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    drayer wrote: »
    Hi,
    I have a Firebird Heatac 70/90, the riello burner fuel pump has siezed, Instead of paying 100e for new pump just gonna buy new burner and use old 1 for spares in future. Was thinking of going for the riello 90/120. Question is, is it better to go for the 90/120 burner? both burners are the same price, will both fit my boiler? House is 4 bed semi just over 1700sq feet 12 rads. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Thanks...

    As bill said How do you know the pump is seized, If the capacitor is gone it will sound similar to a seized pump.
    If the pump is seized you need to find out why, if it is due to water, dirt or something else in your oil then that needs to be rectified before you fit a new pump or it would damage the new pump.

    If the rest of your existing burner are good enough "to be kept for spares" then it would be worth putting the new pump on it, If you stick a 2nd hand burner on the shelf for parts by the time you need them they might not be working, the motors can seize, and dampness can damage control boxes and photocells.

    If you have a 70/90 fitted and it was working correctly why would you want to fit something different?

    And back to Bill again, You need Flue gas analyser, oil pressure gauge etc and the know how to use them to set up a new pump, boiler etc.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Have it checked out by someone who knows about these things, it will save you money now and more importantly in the future running costs

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    drayer wrote: »
    Hi,
    I have a Firebird Heatac 70/90, the riello burner fuel pump has siezed, Instead of paying 100e for new pump just gonna buy new burner and use old 1 for spares in future. Was thinking of going for the riello 90/120. Question is, is it better to go for the 90/120 burner? both burners are the same price, will both fit my boiler? House is 4 bed semi just over 1700sq feet 12 rads. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Thanks...
    No, you would not be better to go with a riello 90/120.You cant run a firebird heatpac70/90 over 95,000 btu.You could set up a riello 70/90 btu to 90,000 btu or at most maybe 95,000 using correct nozzle size,oil pressure and flue gas analysis.If your burner is not that old i would definately change the pump but you must find out why the pump went.i think 90,000 btu, ie 70/90 is plenty.Hope this helps


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Although having said that if you did buy a riello 90/120 burner you could use that too if you set it up to 90,000btu,95,000btu max.Its all in the set up.Both burners basically the same except for the head type


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    agusta wrote: »
    Although having said that if you did buy a riello 90/120 burner you could use that too if you set it up to 90,000btu,95,000btu max.Its all in the set up.Both burners basically the same except for the head type
    Blast tube for the 90/120 will not suit the 70/90 flame chamber. This would also have to be changed. No reason not to install the correct burner for that boiler.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Blast tube for the 90/120 will not suit the 70/90 flame chamber. This would also have to be changed. No reason not to install the correct burner for that boiler.
    i came across this before with a 90/120 fitted to a firebird 70/90.firebird technical told me that time the LD3 blast tube would be fine.the manual says a T3 blast tube.i guess i confused the issue abit in this thread,i understand what your saying...there is no reason not to buy the correct burner for the boiler


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭drayer


    thanks everybody for the comment's, I popped open the pump this evening 1 of the gears had cracked I replaced this with a gear from an old pump the dad had. Stupidly damaged the solenoid valve in the process, replace this tomorrow hook her up and hopefully this will sort it without the need for a new burner. Is this a common failure does anybody know? Fuel filter was spotless burner is only approx 4 yrs old.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    drayer wrote: »
    Is this a common failure does anybody know?
    Very common when people go at them who do not know what they are doing!
    Hope you also know how to set the pressure & air to fuel ratios while you are at it. You will also need to ensure the CO (Carbon Monoxide) levels are within safe & permitable levels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    drayer wrote: »
    thanks everybody for the comment's, I popped open the pump this evening 1 of the gears had cracked I replaced this with a gear from an old pump the dad had. Stupidly damaged the solenoid valve in the process, replace this tomorrow hook her up and hopefully this will sort it without the need for a new burner. Is this a common failure does anybody know? Fuel filter was spotless burner is only approx 4 yrs old.

    i still cant get my head around why you are even thinking about a new burner as your own is only 4 years old ??????? pump 100e burner approx 300e but remember as shane pointed out which ever fix you go for make sure its set up as advised


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 Cici14


    Hi, my oil ran out last night and I got oil today. On the boiler it says lock out. I took off cover and took off a bolt with a 15 spanner on the left until fuel came out. I then pressed the red button it goes for a few seconds and cuts out again with lock out light still on. I tried this a few times and still no use. What else can I do to fix it?

    above the bolt that I loosened is a black screw type one. I never touched this.. The fuel line is coming in under the box RBT is written on the box above red button if this is of any help


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Cici14 wrote: »
    Hi, my oil ran out last night and I got oil today. On the boiler it says lock out. I took off cover and took off a bolt with a 15 spanner on the left until fuel came out. I then pressed the red button it goes for a few seconds and cuts out again with lock out light still on. I tried this a few times and still no use. What else can I do to fix it?

    above the bolt that I loosened is a black screw type one. I never touched this.. The fuel line is coming in under the box RBT is written on the box above red button if this is of any help

    It may take a while to bleed it if it has ran out and the tank is far away. You should be bleeding it from the Allen screw on the left face of the pump. Not one of the four Allen screws but the one that sort of stands alone. Get a clean container and run about a mugful into this before tightening it up and pressing the reset. Don't press reset more than a couple of times.

    Pour what you collected back into tank.

    You may have a sludged up filter from allowing the tank to run out or even damage to the pump. If the above doesn't work you will need to get someone out.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    It may take a while to bleed it if it has ran out and the tank is far away. You should be bleeding it from the Allen screw on the left face of the pump. Not one of the four Allen screws but the one that sort of stands alone. Get a clean container and run about a mugful into this before tightening it up and pressing the reset. Don't press reset more than a couple of times.

    Pour what you collected back into tank.

    You may have a sludged up filter from allowing the tank to run out or even damage to the pump. If the above doesn't work you will need to get someone out.

    all the above + nozzle may be blocked but that's about as for as you can go yourself


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