PC to trisync

Since the blast id finaly working I want to try out the 31k
Going to hook a pc or 360 up to it later just to check out the picture.

So what do I need to do?
Just a normal gfx card via the vga
I know about setting the monitor for 31k

Do i need any software to drop the refresh of the PC or will 31k be an option? (win7 64bit)
Cheers

TechnoFreek

For 31khz Using a pc hook up the jpac to the pc and jamma. If you wish you connect the pc vga directly to arcade monitor bypassing the jpac.

Download a program for the pc called quick res 2.
Once installed select a resolution of 640*480 60hz. Add this to the favourites option for handiness.

Bingo bango. You desktop should be displayed on you monitor.
If using a laptop you might need to set it to clone or duplicate the displays.

That's all I have to do anyway. Good luck

safetyboy

trisync switch automatically between 15/24/31

safetyboy

safetyboy wrote: »

trisync switch automatically between 15/24/31

Mine a manual

Thanks Techno,
Will I not be selecting 31hz not 60hz?

Just hooking it up for a look

TechnoFreek

I've 60 selected for some reason. Not sure why.

I don't think we're comparing like with like.

The Last Bandit

15/24/31KHz refers to horizontal sync rate.

60/50Hz is the vertical sync (refresh) rate. All your Jamma stuff and PC should be able to output 60Hz, the screen will roll if this rate is too high or not syncing.

TechnoFreek

The Last Bandit wrote: »

15/24/31KHz refers to horizontal sync rate.

60/50Hz is the vertical sync (refresh) rate. All your Jamma stuff and PC should be able to output 60Hz, the screen will roll if this rate is too high or not syncing.

Ah. That's it. Not comparing like with like.

Ah cool,
thats where I was getting confused!
should be a piece of piss so.
Going ot drop the screen voltage at the flyback while i have the back off.Before my corneas get burnt

No joy with this last night
Did all of the above and it wouldnt sync.
The picture was there but it was rolling very fast.Same with the 360 (set to lowest res)
Heres a pic of the dip settings for the screen


Whats Amp 6p?(SW3 OFF)
Any idea?

The Last Bandit

AMP 6P would be referring to the connector type - in this case a 6 pin AMP connector, judging by the voltage 3.0V peak to peak I'd say that is the output for direct connection to a arcade chassis.

The D-SUB 15P is your standard VGA connector and the voltage 0.7V p-p is correct for a VGA signal.

Ah yeah that makes sense
The d-sub board is remote to the chassis and connected back by a connector block,
that connector must be the the 6pin.

I did try OFF ON ON
and OFF ON OFF

but dint work
I did a good bit of playing around with the picture last night. Defiantly have it looking better but its hard to do.
I had to get the missus to look at the screen while I made adjustments,

The pots on the flyback are insanely sensitive.
I also realized the marquee light is insanely bright,Need to swap out the tube or defuse it.

Myrddin

What PAL settings is the 360 running? Its prob set to 50Hz if the picture is rolling no?

not sure,
It was rolling rapidly.more of a flicker.
but the image was defo there.
I really want to see what the monitor looks like at 31k.

The Last Bandit

urbanledge wrote: »

not sure,
It was rolling rapidly.more of a flicker.

That sounds more like the horizontal sync is not locking.

Myrddin

urbanledge wrote: »

not sure,
It was rolling rapidly.more of a flicker.
but the image was defo there.
I really want to see what the monitor looks like at 31k.

You need to connect the 360 to a tv using the composite cable it comes with {non hd}, go into display settings, pal settings & change it to PAL60

Ah ok!
I was using the vga to tv first.
Will try again later.
If I can get a 360 to sync I can defo get a pc to do the same.
I've read that some blast tri syncs dont like 360 and will shut down after a few mins.

Andrew76

I'm guessing the v.hold or h.hold pots didn't fix it either?

Andrew76

Andrew76 wrote: »

I'm guessing the v.hold or h.hold pots didn't fix it either?

The wha wha!
Im new to this real arcade monitor stuff.
Theres 8 or 9 pots on the side of the monitor that are only accessible with the monitor out.The V.hold and H.hold must be there.
I dont want to mess with anything just yet unless im sure what it does.
I'll set the xbox with the component cable later and take it from there.

baby steps!

o1s1n

You sure you can't access the pots without the monitor out? That's crazy if that's the case.

Mine are a bit of a pain to get to (directly on the chassis) so I have to move the whole cab out and climb in the back...but having to take the monitor out is in another league completely.

Myrddin

It could simply be the pots yeah. I'm fairly sure the 360 defaults to PAL50 here though, & it can only be changed to PAL60 by using the component lead it comes bundled with. Totally stupid you can't change it via HDMI, I had to change it for Hitman Blood Money there recently. The game wouldn't boot, giving a message about not being able to display in PAL50 {despite the fact the 360 was outputting 1080p@60Hz}. I had to root out the box of the console & use the component lead to change it to PAL60, & then go back to HDMI.

@enternow

@enternow
now that you say it i think it was at pal50hz
you could reach the pots but its tight enough and theres no way you could see the front.
there on the left of the monitor pointing towards the case.

Andrew76

urbanledge wrote: »

The wha wha!
Im new to this real arcade monitor stuff.
Theres 8 or 9 pots on the side of the monitor that are only accessible with the monitor out.The V.hold and H.hold must be there.
I dont want to mess with anything just yet unless im sure what it does.
I'll set the xbox with the component cable later and take it from there.

baby steps!

Have a look at the pic below, on the left you can see a remote board with pots on it to adjust various things like vertical size, v. hold, v. position, horizontal size, h.hold, h.position, h.pincushion, brightness, contrast etc. For a rolling or flicking picture I'd defo try play with the size and hold pots to see if they help. It's a quick thing to test depending where they are located. Might not fix it but worth a try anyway.

Andrew76

o1s1n wrote: »

You sure you can't access the pots without the monitor out? That's crazy if that's the case.

Mine are a bit of a pain to get to (directly on the chassis) so I have to move the whole cab out and climb in the back...but having to take the monitor out is in another league completely.

The fack, the pots to adjust the picture - you have to get at the chassis to get to them? Fook that! My next cab will be another AWSD with the remote board behind the coin door so. Anytime you put in a new board it needs adjusting - just a case of pop open the coin door, adjust and see the screen at the same time. I'd have no patience to fiddle about with the chassis at the back.

The blast is totally different.Small remote under the panel for
Hori size/position,
vert size/position
Contrast,brightness and volume.

the rest is hidden away on the chassis.
Might have a break through!
was looking in the manual and I missed something



Disconnect if the input connector is 15pin d-sub mini

Edit(sorry about the pic size)

o1s1n

Andrew76 wrote: »

The fack, the pots to adjust the picture - you have to get at the chassis to get to them? Fook that! My next cab will be another AWSD with the remote board behind the coin door so. Anytime you put in a new board it needs adjusting - just a case of pop open the coin door, adjust and see the screen at the same time. I'd have no patience to fiddle about with the chassis at the back.

Yep! It's one of the down sides of owning an older cab

I keep the monitor calibrated to run Neo Geo games. CPS2 boards are a little cut off to the left where it needs to be moved over a tad horizontally - but there's no way I'm moving the cab out and climbing behind for that each time.

Thankfully all the boards I play hold the picture fine without the need for adjustment. Only things which produce a rolling picture have been modified things like the Megadrive jamma thingy or those Chinese multi carts. The Punisher boot did before, but that has since fixed itself after the cap kit.

o1s1n

Here's my chassis if anyone is interested. You can see the RGB pots in the top left and all the rest down at the front. Tis a right paint to get to alright.

Myrddin

Hmm, where have I seen that chassis before...

o1s1n

Thanks for not taking any photos of it in pieces. I think I'd have gone to pieces

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Thanks for not taking any photos of it in pieces. I think I'd have gone to pieces

Yeah photos of a cap change procedure would only really be suited to a paint drying forum:

"Here's the old cap"
"Here's the old cap removed"
"Now we see the new cap in place"

Repeat about 40 times :pac:

o1s1n

Apart from -

"Here's the old giant cap"
"Here's the old cap removed and the empty space on the board with a big ring around where it goes"
"Now we see the new tiny cap in place, taking up but a fraction of the white ring space"
"fingers crossed it doesn't explode" :eek:

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Apart from -

"Here's the old giant cap"
"Here's the old cap removed and the empty space on the board with a big ring around where it goes"
"Now we see the new tiny cap in place, taking up but a fraction of the white ring space"
"fingers crossed it doesn't explode" :eek:

Well yeah there is that alright Its pretty amazing how they;ve reduced to size of some caps over the years whilst keeping the values the same. There's also the BP caps...I had to google them because they've no polarity {well strictly speaking they are Bi-Polar}!