Fitted a new Roedale 20MOA picatinny rail

clivej

I got a Roedale 20MOA picatinny rail and got around to fitting to my Sako 75 Laminated Varmint in .308 today. With this I will now be able to get those long distance shots in on the range.

I already had the 30mm picatinny adaptor on my Bushnell 4200 Elite 6-24x50 tactical scope so I took a couple of photo's with a Lazer Designator on top and a LED Cree torch.

No text just loads of photo's








I used the Wheeler Engineering Professional Reticle Leveling System to get the scope level and true. It works.












Lazer Designator






Cree LED torch

Ziggieire

very nice, does the picatinny adaptor just change the 11m dovetail to a rem 700 picatinny screw spaceing ?
and you just bolt the rail on top ?

steyrman2

Hi clive did you have to drill and tap the roedale rail also are you able to get cheek weld with it being that height up off the stock

One shot on kill

Love the pictures it looks like a great setup.

Prob a silly question but what advantage does the picatinny rail do.

( 20 MOA )???

juice1304

The rail is angled so it gives you an extra 20moa (minutes of angle is a unit of angular measurement, milliradian is the other popular one for firearm optics like a mildot reticule the distance between each dot is one mil or milliradian) of adjustment on your scope so you can adjust it for longer ranges where as before fitting it he would have run out of clicks on his turrets.

One shot on kill

Ok so ye that kinda makes sense. I know what your saying it just new so don't understand it let's say. If some one zeroes and says 1 inch MOA does that mean minutes of angle aswell.

juice1304

When they say a one moa gun it means that it can hold a group which measures 1 inch at 100y if your scope has 1/4 moa clicks then each click will move the crosshairs a 1/4 of an inch at 100y. If you have a .5moa gun then at 100y you can fire a group which measures half an inch etc.. so at 200y a 1moa gun will hold a 2 inch group and so on.

clivej

Ziggieire wrote: »

very nice, does the picatinny adaptor just change the 11m dovetail to a rem 700 picatinny screw spaceing ?
and you just bolt the rail on top ?

No.
It's just (in this example) a 30mm ring that fits around my 30mm scope tube with a small picatinny rail. The bubble level is just screwed/attached to the rail.

clivej

steyrman2 wrote: »

Hi clive did you have to drill and tap the roedale rail also are you able to get cheek weld with it being that height up off the stock

No
It slides up on the tappered dovetail rails of the Sako 75/85 rifles. 4 grub screws hold it in place on the dovetails, not really needed because of the dovetail taper. The rail is then held to the dovetail pieces with screws. Easy to fit.

Cheek weld is a little lower than I had before. I managed to find a pair of very low, under 1/4", rings off E bay in the US. Scopes objective bell can't go any lower without touching the barrel.

clivej

One shot on kill wrote: »

Love the pictures it looks like a great setup.

Prob a silly question but what advantage does the picatinny rail do.

( 20 MOA )???

The rail is cut so that when the scope is on top it lowers the front of the scope down by 20 MOA (minutes of angle) 1 minute at 100y = 1 inch.
So if I now just shoot I will be 20MOA high or 20" high. So now to get back to zero I have to bring down my reticle 20MOA or 80 clicks with my 1/4 click = 1/4" @100y scope.

Now when I go to shoot say 800y I can dial in enough click to get my X hairs to target.

That make sense???

One shot on kill

clivej wrote: »

The rail is cut so that when the scope is on top it lowers the front of the scope down by 20 MOA (minutes of angle) 1 minute at 100y = 1 inch.
So if I now just shoot I will be 20MOA high or 20" high. So now to get back to zero I have to bring down my reticle 20MOA or 80 clicks with my 1/4 click = 1/4" @100y scope.

Now when I go to shoot say 800y I can dial in enough click to get my X hairs to target.

That make sense???

Ah ye I think I have it now basically the rail tips the scope to get you most if your clicks on one side of the reticle so you don't run out of adjustment.

Would I be right in saying this only works one way on a rail. I suppose you only need adjust for long range anyway.

clivej

One shot on kill wrote: »

Ah ye I think I have it now basically the rail tips the scope to get you most if your clicks on one side of the reticle so you don't run out of adjustment.

Would I be right in saying this only works one way on a rail. I suppose you only need adjust for long range anyway.

Correct as now the reticle elevation is nearly all the down. It gives me about 35MOA of up when I have it zeroed at 100m with 12MOA of down left.
I still have to get it on the range to get the zero setup.

I use the Leupold zero point magnetic illuminated bore-sighter to get me on paper. Good little gadget that you put on the end of the barrel and it give you a zeroing grid view through your scope

http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/accessories/tools-and-accessories/zero-point-magnetic-illuminated-boresighter/

ejg

I have the Roedale rail on my Sako L579 which leaves me with about six clicks to go lower on a Zeiss Conquest 6.5-20 after
zeroing. Have it on now for several years and had no Problem.
Clive, now you need another rail out the side of your scope to fit a short dot scope....for those close up shots.:P
edi