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Rear Wheel Issue

  • 05-02-2013 1:59pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 477 ✭✭


    I notice a bit of lateral movement in the rear wheel last night so tightened the hub.

    Now the rear wheel does not spin freely. If I hold the bike up and spin the rear wheel in the same direction it would spin if riding normally, it rapidly comes to a stop, rotating perhaps for 1/10th the time the front wheel does with the same strength spin. Brakes are not rubbing, rim is true, tire is not flat, and there's nothing I can see caught in the hub, axle or freewheel.

    Any ideas what the problem might be?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,216 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    What sort of wheel is it? Has it cartridge bearings or "cup and cone"?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 477 ✭✭cassette50


    I think it is "cup and cone" based on the pictures on Sheldon Brown.

    The wheel is a Giant SR-2 with Giant 32H hub.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    Sounds like you tightened the hub too much. If it's cup and cone, just back off the cone about a quarter turn and try again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 477 ✭✭cassette50


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    Sounds like you tightened the hub too much. If it's cup and cone, just back off the cone about a quarter turn and try again.

    Seems to have done the trick.

    Thanks to all for the help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,216 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Yeah, if you've been reading Sheldon he covers how to get the tightness just right. It needs to be a little loose as the pressure from the QR skewer will tighten it slightly.

    However, with the crappy winter weather it may also need to be opened up, given a good clean and regreased. Full info is probably on Sheldon but also covered here.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    It's possible you over tightened the hub bearings. You are doing the wrong test for this, because you could be seeing the result of the friction of the freehub bearing and mechanism and water seal if any. So to eliminate this and test the hub bearings in isolation take off the back wheel and spin it in your hand so that the cassette spins with the wheel and compare. Except in extreme cases you can ignore the friction in the freehub because it is only a factor when you are coasting.
    From my own experience with cup and cones, adjust to leave the slightest of run out at the rim<1mm because tightening the quick release can add a small preload to the bearings also.


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