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Bandit 600 Carburettor Restrictor

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  • 03-02-2013 7:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 4


    Hi everyone,

    I'm having trouble identifying what kind of restrictor kit is installed in my bandit.

    I have a 99 Bandit 600 GSF S. I have just removed the carburettors to find that it is not the plate type restrictor in the inlet manifold. (i.e. basically a washer that restricts air)

    Another type of restrictor I'm aware of is the carburettor diaphragm type. However when I open the carb I do not see anything above the diaphragm that restricts the travel(and hence needle travel).

    The only other thing that the restrictor may be is the diaphragm slider itself. If so I'm assuming the shop that installed it removed the original slider and installed the ones shown in the picture below. I didn't get any parts back from him when he installed it.

    There are two holes in the side of the diaphragm as can be seen in the photo, and one hole in the end beside the main needle hole. I've heard that there are no holes in the side of an unrestricted slide. I'm guessing that the two holes in the side perform the restriction by changing the pressure to restrict needle lift.

    The butterflies fully open when the throttle is opened fully so there is no throttle restriction.

    Has anyone any similar experience of this type of restrictor?

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭Peanut2011


    Are you sure it is restricted? I know of many that have the cert but no restrictors at all.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 cianok


    I wasn't convinced it was really restricted, even though I have a cert and a dyno power curve plot, but after a lot of googling I'm now pretty positive that the it is and that the restriction is indeed the two extra holes on the side of the slides. So I think I've solved it.

    The guy in the shop said he put in a proper suzuki restrictor kit but to be honest it looks as if each slide just has 2 holes drilled into them. So it looks like he pulled a fast one there!

    So looks like problem solved. I've blocked the holes with epoxy so when they're set hard tomorrow ill stick the slides back in and see how it goes. I'll post here what the result is after a test ride. If I have full power I'll order derestricted slides to be safe


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,222 ✭✭✭goodlad


    cianok wrote: »
    I wasn't convinced it was really restricted, even though I have a cert and a dyno power curve plot, but after a lot of googling I'm now pretty positive that the it is and that the restriction is indeed the two extra holes on the side of the slides. So I think I've solved it.

    The guy in the shop said he put in a proper suzuki restrictor kit but to be honest it looks as if each slide just has 2 holes drilled into them. So it looks like he pulled a fast one there!

    So looks like problem solved. I've blocked the holes with epoxy so when they're set hard tomorrow ill stick the slides back in and see how it goes. I'll post here what the result is after a test ride. If I have full power I'll order derestricted slides to be safe

    Thats poxy man. Where did ya get the "Suzuki restriction kit" fitted? :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 cianok


    goodlad wrote: »

    Thats poxy man. Where did ya get the "Suzuki restriction kit" fitted? :rolleyes:


    Some independent guy with a shop near Cork airport. Cant remember the name


  • Registered Users Posts: 873 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    It could be restricted from the CDI. Have you rode it? Where does it rev to? If it revs cleanly to the red line, going up through the box, its not restricted. If it loses power at around 8000rpm, and struggles to pass 100mph then its restricted. If it is the CDI you need to change it for a full power one.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4 cianok


    Bandit sorted and breathing. Just took it for a ride and its a different animal! Revs smoothly and cleanly right up to the limiter. Its quite a difference from 33bhp

    So by blocking the upper holes in all of the slides removed the restriction. Theres no issue with ignition so the CDI wasnt the restriction.

    Proper original slides are expensive at about 90euro each. So ill try breakers yards for second hand ones first as id rather not leave the epoxied slides in there too long in case the resin disintegrates.

    Thanks for the replies all


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Madvillain


    Had the same problem as yourself with the bike shop telling me there was a proper kit installed. All the slides were drilled instead. So got it sorted after reading this. Cheers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,705 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    cianok wrote: »
    Bandit sorted and breathing. Just took it for a ride and its a different animal! Revs smoothly and cleanly right up to the limiter. Its quite a difference from 33bhp

    So by blocking the upper holes in all of the slides removed the restriction. Theres no issue with ignition so the CDI wasnt the restriction.

    Proper original slides are expensive at about 90euro each. So ill try breakers yards for second hand ones first as id rather not leave the epoxied slides in there too long in case the resin disintegrates.

    Thanks for the replies all

    would fuel tank sealer work better and be stable?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,026 ✭✭✭serious3


    what epoxy did you use? genuine araldite is fine. if your that worried pop them out and head down to your local engineering shop and get them to tig up the holes for you, you can the re-dress them with a flat file or get them do it


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 silvermont


    Hi all,

    I'm the brother of the guy who started this post. I came across this post again by accident. Thought a quick update was in order.

    I used Araldite epoxy (the one with resin and hardener in separate tubes). Plugged the holes and let it set for 2 days so it was as hard as it could get. Carefully cut away the excess with a knife to make it flush with the slider. It has been 2 years and the epoxy is still as solid as it was day one. There does not appear to be any breakdown due to petrol or anything as the contact is very limited if any. Great fix considering the cost of replacing the four sliders at around 360-400 euro.

    The only other comment worth nothing is that the sliders are very sensitive to being seated correctly (on my bike anyway) when putting them back in. If they bike doesn't run right after just take out the sliders again and put them back in. I find sometimes I have to open them up again and give them a little jiggle and reseat the diaphragm to get the bike to work right again.

    Hope this thread is helpful


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6 silvermont


    Hi again,

    Just to update once again. This fix is still going strong and the bike is running perfectly fine so this is definitely a long term solution.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,282 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Fair play.
    See ya again in 2 years!:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,705 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    silvermont wrote: »
    Hi again,

    Just to update once again. This fix is still going strong and the bike is running perfectly fine so this is definitely a long term solution.

    good man for coming back :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 silvermont


    Yup. Long-term :)


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