Electric Gates

redrascalman

Hi, I'm new here, and am hoping someone may be able to help me, My Swing Electric gates have stopped working, They have underground hydraulics. The transmitter battery is fine. The Keypad which usually has a red light illuminated doesnt respond, the red light is out and the buttons dont beep. I called a specialist, they said no powere to the keypad and thus the control panel is faulty and needs replacing cost £350 (ouch) I identified the control GiBiDi F4 and have been quoted £186 for the control panel & £79 for the plug in receiver - My question is - do I need both these parts ? is the existing panel repairable ? it has power and red lights are illuminated... any help would be appreciated please....

meercat

redrascalman wrote: »

Hi, I'm new here, and am hoping someone may be able to help me, My Swing Electric gates have stopped working, They have underground hydraulics. The transmitter battery is fine. The Keypad which usually has a red light illuminated doesnt respond, the red light is out and the buttons dont beep. I called a specialist, they said no powere to the keypad and thus the control panel is faulty and needs replacing cost £350 (ouch) I identified the control GiBiDi F4 and have been quoted £186 for the control panel & £79 for the plug in receiver - My question is - do I need both these parts ? is the existing panel repairable ? it has power and red lights are illuminated... any help would be appreciated please....

I wouldn't get any parts yet
Someone needs to come out and actually look for the problem
Could be as simple as a fuse or a power supply
Get another specialist

redrascalman

Thanks for that, I plan at the weekend to switch off the power, take off the cover on the box and give it a good clean, and check for loose wires etc. Is there anything else I can check ? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Are these control panels / receivers usually reliable ?

meercat

redrascalman wrote: »

Thanks for that, I plan at the weekend to switch off the power, take off the cover on the box and give it a good clean, and check for loose wires etc. Is there anything else I can check ? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Are these control panels / receivers usually reliable ?

check for bugs at the back of the pcb board
also check if there is anything blocking the safety eyes
you should hear a clicking noise as you move your hand up/down in front of one side (check inside and outside if there are 2 sets)
there is a similar thread somewhere(cant link it for you though)

post a pic of the control panel when you have it opened
there are some boys here that really know their stuff

most possibly a control/power fuse

careful now;)

redrascalman

Thank you for your advice, I will check all those things, here are the pictures if any one can help or advise I will be very grateful.

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/616138/237905.jpg

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/616138/237906.jpg

is there a way to post the actual pictures without the link ?

meercat

hard to tell but there seems to be"slime"across the middle timer and the chip underneath
have a look above it(beneath the top2l3l4)and see is that a decomposing insect

remove any foreign bodies
remove the 4 phillips screws(1 near each corner)and check behind the board for slugs etc
clear any cobwebs and make sure board is dry
replace the F0.16A fuse


remember to turn off power before you go near the control panel
the pcb will have mains power on it if not

redrascalman

Thanks for your advice Meercat, I took the photos in the week mainly to identify the make and model, I unscrewed the cover, took the pics and screwed the cover back on. I was freezing so didnt want to mess about in the cold, I will be better prepared this weekend and with your advice and some other tips I have picked up I hope I can get them working...

if not I'll have to rob a bank !!! - joke !

meercat

redrascalman wrote: »

Thanks for your advice Meercat, I took the photos in the week mainly to identify the make and model, I unscrewed the cover, took the pics and screwed the cover back on. I was freezing so didnt want to mess about in the cold, I will be better prepared this weekend and with your advice and some other tips I have picked up I hope I can get them working...

if not I'll have to rob a bank !!! - joke !

yeah
make sure its dry and your not in a rush
dont want to be pulling cables out either

Thunderbird2

Well the stop light and start light are lit . Powers going to the board .
Looks like a slug was in there .
Check to see that the photo cells have no creepies in them and check if the keypad has a fuse in it and that it's not blown

meercat

Thunderbird2 wrote: »

Well the stop light and start light are lit . Powers going to the board .

god bless your eyesight
cant make that out,might just be reflection(or my eyesight)

Thunderbird2

I thought that but you can see the light coming from inside the diode . Then others beside it are completely dark

redrascalman

Ok Guys thanks for your help so far. Yesterday after flicking the tripswitch to cut the power, I removed the Cover and gave the boards a good clean, removed all cobwebs and debris etc.. On doing so part of the panel sort of fell off, (the part on the right with the thick black wire aerial?) my thoughts were I had broken something although I was being really careful, this part just sort of fell into my hand, as if it was really loose. I looked closer and I could see that it actually pushes onto the main board via a connector block and presumably is just a push fit ? So I firmly pushed it on. Feeling hopeful that I may have fixed the problem. I refitted the cover and tried the gates, no function from either keypad (dead) or transponders....also no clicking from the safety beams - Disappointed I again removed the cover... THEN I NOTICED - The orange wire which looked to be connecting No 13 to No 18 looked to have been cut deliberately !!! You can see this on my photo but you have to ZOOM in. Well I joined the cut wire and guess what !!! Working gates !!!! Well not quite. They work off the Transponders perfect open and close great but the Keypad is still dead and the beams don't work ? I removed the cover again and found a couple more wires that don't seem to go anywhere...I will post another photo and explain in a bit - any ideas anyone? I definitely think I have been sabotaged.....anyone agree.....and any suggestions as to what action to take ? ...... Sorry about the long winded post....

redrascalman

Here are some more photos, there is a white wire which doesnt seem to go anywhere ? (although it looks like it never did) on the right there is a blue and yellow wire that go to a connector block and then a single orange wire came out of the other side of it ? but this sort of fell out - any ideas any one ?

this is the cut wire - SABOTAGE !!!!!!
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n67/rayshafi/c_zps10dcddb6.jpg?t=1359377130

Look in the lower right you will see the yellow and blue wire going to the connector block and the single orange wire coming out of the other side ... should this connect somewhere ?
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n67/rayshafi/b_zps876b2e20.jpg?t=1359377084

look in the center at the bottom and you can see the white wire, dont know if this was always like this as
the wire hasnt been stripped back, or could this too have been cut .. ( I never really checked that )
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n67/rayshafi/d_zps6f5c4ab3.jpg?t=1359377178

Once again People - a big thank you for your help !!

meercat

I doubt someone cut any wires
Just left like that from installation
Have you checked the 2 glass fuses
The main 5a and the .16a control fuse above
The black holder pulls towards you revealing the fuse
Post a pic of the fuse
You should see the wire in the middle of the glass

Turn off power when you do this

redrascalman

I am convinced the wires have been cut deliberately, Zoom in real close the cut looks clean, and the position of the cut wire in the original photo indicates to me that it was pulled in an outward direction as it was cut, also on joining the wires, the gates begin working, (albeit from the transponders only). The two young guys who came out seemed cocky and was larking about playing in the snow, putting it down each others backs, very unprofessional I thought.

meercat

redrascalman wrote: »

I am convinced the wires have been cut deliberately, Zoom in real close the cut looks clean, and the position of the cut wire in the original photo indicates to me that it was pulled in an outward direction as it was cut, also on joining the wires, the gates begin working, (albeit from the transponders only). The two young guys who came out seemed cocky and was larking about playing in the snow, putting it down each others backs, very unprofessional I thought.

check the fuses first
then we can move to next step

meercat

http://www.lwgates.co.uk/gibidi/install_instructions/f4_plus_as04180.pdf

it does appear that 13 and 18 should be linkedbut may just have been disconnected for fault finding

redrascalman

If that was the case then surely the cut wire should have been re connected ? I cant see a professional competent electrician haphazardly cutting wires to "fault find" and then leaving them so ? - They then said the board was dead and there was no power supply, and quoted me £300 + for a new one ... Strange that I connected the cut wire and the gates began to work off the remotes ? I must get round to checking them fuses and post back again ...

meercat

this wire is just a bridge to test the system without the photo cells
it was probably left in by the original installer
with this bridge connected,the photocells become obsolete