Beginner - Building a simple rack using a kitchen worktop

Prizen

Hi All,

I wish to build a hifi rack to put my hifi system on. My music system contains 4 separate boxes, and hope to end up with something looking like the below (except an additional tier, slightly wider and made from solid wood, not MDF). I saw this on a Norwegian website, and unfortunately have had no luck getting help there.



I wish to make this from a kitchen worktop that I have bought, made from rubberwood as below pic



I am general quite handy at DIY, but not experienced at all in woodwork. I have some queries and I'd sincerely appreciate any advice you have.

1. I would like to stain the rubberwood to give a colour more like rosewood. What's the best way to do this?

2. Should I pay somebody to cut the worktop into the sections I need for each tier, or would this be possible with a handsaw? I don't mind taking my time, it's all about the finish of course.

3. I also need to make holes (as in pic below) for the supports between each tier, what would I need to do this (a drill, what kind of tip?), and any tips on doing it?



4. I wish to get a nice curve as in the below pic, I assume I would need a router, but what kind of attachment, and any tips on the best way to do this?



5. Any other tips, or am I completely out of my depth!?

Thanks

fergal.b

Hi Prizen,

1) If you are going to varnish it I would go with a water base stain if not any one will do just try it on some off cuts first till your happy.

2) It would be handy if you could get someone with a band saw to cut it out but if it's not too thick you might get away with a jig saw or sawzall or even a small blade hand saw.

3) You will need a hole saw that looks like this, they come in sets or on there own from any DIY shop.





4) The router bit thats in the photo is what you need you can also buy these on there own or in a set, as it's just a plane curve you could also just sand it out by drawing a line a few mm in from the edge on the top and the side and then sand to the lines this should give the same curve or you could do it by eye,again if your not sure try it on a bit of scrap till you get the size of curve you want.

I hope this helps a bit and others might have some more ideas.
Best of luck, no bother to you.:D



.

recipio

Without knowing what tools you have its difficult to give advice.One problem I forseee is that the rubberwood top may begin to break up when worked as its a composite of many smaller pieces.
With respect, are you sure its a good idea when there must be cheap units readily available.? We all make the mistake of overconfidence as beginners. I once made a louvre door but it was such a hassle - 'never again ' !

Prizen

Thanks guys, i actually have organised somebody to cut it with abandsaw.

from my web research, i understood rubberwood to be relatively easy to work with?

i want to ensure that it is very solid, but as i am working off limited pictures, i am sort of unsure of how each tier will fix together with the supports.

i think i need a threaded bar to run from bottom to top in each of the four corners, and i also need to shroud this in the black metal tubing? Has anybody any alternative suggestions for the legs between each tier - maybe i should use wood but what type joint or method of fixing it should i use?

thanks

recipio

i think i need a threaded bar to run from bottom to top in each of the four corners, and i also need to shroud this in the black metal tubing? Has anybody any alternative suggestions for the legs between each tier - maybe i should use wood but what type joint or method of fixing it should i use?

thanks[/QUOTE]

If you want to use wood get somebody to turn a spigot ( small cylinder ) on the ends of the supports and glue into drilled holes in the shelves. Its important to have them line up in the vertical plane otherwise they would look awful. !

Prizen

recipio wrote: »

i think i need a threaded bar to run from bottom to top in each of the four corners, and i also need to shroud this in the black metal tubing? Has anybody any alternative suggestions for the legs between each tier - maybe i should use wood but what type joint or method of fixing it should i use?

thanks

If you want to use wood get somebody to turn a spigot ( small cylinder ) on the ends of the supports and glue into drilled holes in the shelves. Its important to have them line up in the vertical plane otherwise they would look awful. ![/QUOTE]

How about putting a self tapping screw into a wooden leg support, and then screwing this assembly up into the shelf?

dmcgarry

Maybe using a forsner bit instead of a hole cutter and go through a third of the way each side of each shelf... cut whatever youre using for legs into segments... get a snug enough fit and gorilla glue/alligator glue will hold each stand segment in... id say half inch deep holes would do it...

Damien McGarry
www.wexfordwoodworking.com

recipio

dmcgarry wrote: »

Maybe using a forsner bit instead of a hole cutter and go through a third of the way each side of each shelf... cut whatever youre using for legs into segments... get a snug enough fit and gorilla glue/alligator glue will hold each stand segment in... id say half inch deep holes would do it...

Damien McGarry
www.wexfordwoodworking.com

That would work but it would need perfectly round cylinders and a very snug fit.As usual, it comes down to what tools are available.

dmcgarry

recipio wrote: »

That would work but it would need perfectly round cylinders and a very snug fit.As usual, it comes down to what tools are available.

Thats the idea of gorilla glue or aligator glue... it expands and would fill in small inperfections in fit... if you sand and squirt a bit if water into the hole aswell you'll roughen up any burn marks from the bit and raise the fibres which will give you extra hold and also scarify whatever post you do use on the bit that will go in... this will once again give the glue extra grip

Damien McGarry
www.wexfordwoodworkung.com

Prizen

Thanks for replies, I now have my sections cut by a very kind local kitchen maker, as it turns out, this wood is white oak, and not rubberwood!

Slight change of design - I am now going to drill holes near each corner for each shelf, to accept a 16mm threaded rod.

I now need to source some white oak for the supports/legs for each shelf (any idea of best place to get them, I will need approx 2 metres length, and section of I guess 40mmx40mm to accept the 16mm rod and in order to look well).

Any tips on how best to do the following:

1. Drill the holes near corner of each shelf so they end up straight and dont have any issues lining up the threaded bar?

2. How best to drill through centre of each of the legs, (yet to be sourced), again so everything lines up straight?

3. Where the end of each support meets the shelf, should I recess/c/sink the shelf here, is there any reason to?

4. What do you think would be a nice way to finish the supports, put a bullnose edge on them? Any other ideas?

5. At the moment, I plan on putting clear satin stain on everything, what do you think, any better suggestions?

Thanks!

recipio

Prizen, with respect you are over designing the whole thing and dreaming up techniques for which you don't have the tools.
You don't have to use white oak for instance for the supports. You could use a broom handle and stain or paint it. It would then be easy to drill holes in the shelves to accept a round hole.
If you really want to use 40mm oak you will have to buy a 2" or 50mm board ( available in all the chain stores ) and get someone to cut and plane it. There is no need to drill a for a threaded rod - you would need a big drill press - just insert a dowel in each end and glue into pre-drilled holes in the shelves.A set of clamps would be nice to tighten the whole thing up but just tapping the dowels home would do.
If you can afford 30 euro or so I'd buy a digital vernier which adds accuracy to measuring diameters and holes etc.

Prizen

recipio wrote: »

Prizen, with respect you are over designing the whole thing and dreaming up techniques for which you don't have the tools.
You don't have to use white oak for instance for the supports. You could use a broom handle and stain or paint it. It would then be easy to drill holes in the shelves to accept a round hole.
If you really want to use 40mm oak you will have to buy a 2" or 50mm board ( available in all the chain stores ) and get someone to cut and plane it. There is no need to drill a for a threaded rod - you would need a big drill press - just insert a dowel in each end and glue into pre-drilled holes in the shelves.A set of clamps would be nice to tighten the whole thing up but just tapping the dowels home would do.
If you can afford 30 euro or so I'd buy a digital vernier which adds accuracy to measuring diameters and holes etc.

fair enough, but just out of curiosity, could i not buy a drill press rig for pretty cheap and install my 800 watt drill on it if i really really wanted to install a threaded bar to this design?
thanks

recipio

Prizen wrote: »

fair enough, but just out of curiosity, could i not buy a drill press rig for pretty cheap and install my 800 watt drill on it if i really really wanted to install a threaded bar to this design?
thanks

Yes, that's a budget solution but those stands are never as accurate as a proper drill press. More to the point, its difficult drilling into end grain oak ( the square blocks would be 'upright' remember ) - the drill wants to wander off and will soon be smoking unless you take your time. You would also need a vise to hold the piece to stop it spinning -please don't hold it with your hand.
Buy a small dowel set with a drill and dowels. Its way easier than the method you propose - honestly !

gctest50

http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack

Prizen

recipio wrote: »

Yes, that's a budget solution but those stands are never as accurate as a proper drill press. More to the point, its difficult drilling into end grain oak ( the square blocks would be 'upright' remember ) - the drill wants to wander off and will soon be smoking unless you take your time. You would also need a vise to hold the piece to stop it spinning -please don't hold it with your hand.
Buy a small dowel set with a drill and dowels. Its way easier than the method you propose - honestly !

Ok recipio, I have had a good think about this, and I will go with the dowel option! So, do you have any advice on how to get the best dowel joint for this?

Thanks

Prizen

gctest50 wrote: »

http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack

Considered that, but that wouldn't be much of a challenge.

recipio

Prizen wrote: »

Ok recipio, I have had a good think about this, and I will go with the dowel option! So, do you have any advice on how to get the best dowel joint for this?

Thanks

Prizen, just buy some 10mm dowels and a 10 mm brad point bit ( don't use a common engineers bit - it will wander) Make a small hole in the centre with a bradawl to locate the bit.
Ideally put the supports in a vise and drill 20mm into the end grain ( dowels are typically 40mm long ) You can buy a jig to fit electric drills to keep them vertical but 'close enough' will do. Repeat in the shelves - mark carefully to keep all the supports in line. A little glue and tap them into place.

recipio

PS :Actually drill about 22 mm to allow for glue and prevent the dowel not fitting.I'm guessing the worktop is about 40 mm so drill all the way through. You can buy kits with dowels, a bit and some dowel 'pops' ( markers) usually marketed by Wolfcraft.

slpower01

Sometimes lidl have a small plastic drill guide that is handy for those type of projects... it has different size metal collets that allow you to drill pretty straight.