Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Kitchen wall/splashback tiling, edging question

Options
  • 12-01-2013 6:06pm
    #1
    Prenderb
    Registered Users Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    We're planning a bit of kitchen tiling at the moment, between the worktop and the upper units. What's the "done thing" at edges, eg horizontally at the worktop level and vertically where tiles meet cabinets? I've seen the edging strips, mostly quadrant style, that seem to be made to finish off a section of tiling where it stops and the wall continues untiled, but not much that would do the other type of intersections.

    Would most people just grout at these places?
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    dodzy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    Prenderb wrote: »
    Hi all,

    We're planning a bit of kitchen tiling at the moment, between the worktop and the upper units. What's the "done thing" at edges, eg horizontally at the worktop level and vertically where tiles meet cabinets? I've seen the edging strips, mostly quadrant style, that seem to be made to finish off a section of tiling where it stops and the wall continues untiled, but not much that would do the other type of intersections.

    Would most people just grout at these places?

    1. Top horizontal ( where tiles meet underside of cabinets. Cut tile as close as possible to cabinet. Grout as normal.

    2. Bottom horizontal ( tile meets worktop ). You could use same as above. Personally, I prefer to use a neat bead of silicon ( as close to either worktop or tile colour as possible ) to avoid grout cracking from counter movement.

    3. Vertical edge ( tile meets untiled surface ). Options here include the usual colour coded quadrant tile trim. I prefer to use the aluminium right angled beading. Looks neater when done.


  • Options
    #3
    0ph0rce0
    Registered Users Posts: 3,918 ✭✭✭0ph0rce0


    If your in dublin and need a tiler, i'm always there to help fellow boardsies, free of charge of course as long as its not 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, thats taking advantage :D


  • Options
    #4
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    0ph0rce0 wrote: »
    If your in dublin and need a tiler, i'm always there to help fellow boardsies, free of charge of course as long as its not 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, thats taking advantage :D

    fair play to you not many around now so decent

    ps you dont have a twin brother in limerick by any chance


  • Options
    #5
    Prenderb
    Registered Users Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭Prenderb


    Thanks all, I think your suggestion makes sense Dodzy - I couldn't find a trim that seemed designed for the worktop/wall junction so a bead of silicon (probably over the grout) is probably what we'll do there! @0ph0rce0, thanks for the offer but I'm outside the geographical area of your terms and conditions :P


  • Options
    #6
    0ph0rce0
    Registered Users Posts: 3,918 ✭✭✭0ph0rce0


    jimf wrote: »
    fair play to you not many around now so decent

    ps you dont have a twin brother in limerick by any chance

    No twin :)


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    Davy
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    dodzy wrote: »
    3. Vertical edge ( tile meets untiled surface ). Options here include the usual colour coded quadrant tile trim. I prefer to use the aluminium right angled beading. Looks neater when done.

    +1

    Just looks well around windows etc rather than the quadrant


  • Options
    #8
    whizbang
    Registered Users Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Try not to grout any joints. i.e. where tiles meet the worktop, cabinets, and also wall corners.
    The grout will crack, Also the sealant often wont stick to the grout, and there wont be enough space in the crack to seal properly.


  • Options
    #9
    Prenderb
    Registered Users Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭Prenderb


    whizbang wrote: »
    Try not to grout any joints. i.e. where tiles meet the worktop, cabinets, and also wall corners.
    The grout will crack, Also the sealant often wont stick to the grout, and there wont be enough space in the crack to seal properly.

    Is this suggestino that I leave the last joint between the tile and the cabinet/worktop "dry" and seal it with silicone?


  • Options
    #10
    0ph0rce0
    Registered Users Posts: 3,918 ✭✭✭0ph0rce0


    Prenderb wrote: »
    Is this suggestino that I leave the last joint between the tile and the cabinet/worktop "dry" and seal it with silicone?

    honestly in all my years of tiling i have never seen grout cracking between the cabinets, but that's just me. If its done well there wont be cracks


  • Options
    #11
    650gs
    Registered Users Posts: 788 ✭✭✭650gs


    Well wood can move it happens all the time, the trick is to put a bead of silacone along the worktop before you tile as the face of the work top is not sealed then you put a strip of masking tape along the work top then one along the tiles leaving the gap you want, when you run the silacone along the joint you can run your finger along to take off any excess after ten min or so remove the tape and hey presto a nice straight line


  • Advertisement
Advertisement