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MTB Fork + Frame Match

  • 11-01-2013 5:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭


    I'm in the planning stages of putting together a hardtail mountain bike for myself. I've obtained the frame from a Cube Acid 2011 bike, as below:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=57173

    I'm now looking at forks. I've read that only forks with a specific amount of travel should be fitted to any given frame. Is this true? How can I work out what travel distance is applicable for this particular frame?

    I was looking at some basic Suntour XCM frames for the time being. Would they be okay?

    Thanks in advance :)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,794 ✭✭✭C3PO


    You should use a fork with 100mm of travel for a Cube Acid. Suntour forks are pretty poor and I would suggest trying to stretch to a Rockshox Recon or similar if you can! I don't think the Cube has a tapered steering tube but worth checking before you order a fork!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    C3PO wrote: »
    You should use a fork with 100mm of travel for a Cube Acid. Suntour forks are pretty poor and I would suggest trying to stretch to a Rockshox Recon or similar if you can! I don't think the Cube has a tapered steering tube but worth checking before you order a fork!

    Thanks for your reply! :) I've heard that they're pretty bad but if I get a reasonably lightly used one second hand for half nothing I'll probably stick it on the bike in the meantime. Funds are tight, and I'm not going to be doing any serious downhill or anything :)

    Would you mind explaining what a tapered steering tube is? Also, do you know how long the steering tube needs to be for an Acid frame?

    Thanks again :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    The Cube Acid 2011 was spec'ed with 100mm forks.
    Ideally you should use forks with the same travel.
    The forks, you mention are very basic forks. If you can manage it, try for somethinga little better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    Thanks! Do you mind me asking where you found this info? I had a quick google around for a spec sheet on the Acid but no luck as of yet. Also, what do you think of the frame itself?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,794 ✭✭✭C3PO


    t1mm wrote: »
    Thanks! Do you mind me asking where you found this info? I had a quick google around for a spec sheet on the Acid but no luck as of yet. Also, what do you think of the frame itself?

    Here you go!

    • Frame: Alu Lite AMF 7005 RFR-Geometry
    • Fork: Rock Shox Dart 3 100mm, PopLoc
    • Headset: FSA NO. 10 semi-integrated
    • Stem: Easton EA30, Oversized
    • Handlebar: Easton EA30 Lowriser Oversized
    • Grips: CUBE Double Duometer
    • Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT RD-M773 Shadow 10-speed
    • Front derailleur: Shimano SLX FD-M660-10, Top Swing, 34.9mm, 10-speed
    • Shifters: Shimano SLX SL-M660-10 Rapidfire-Plus, 10-speed
    • Brakes: Hayes Stroker Ryde hydr. discbrake (160/160mm)
    • Cranks: Shimano FC-M552 2-Piece 42x32x24T, 175mm, integrated BB 3x10 speed
    • Cassette: Shimano CS-HG81 11-36T, 10-speed
    • Chain: Shimano CN-HG74 10-speed, 108 links
    • Tires: Schwalbe Nobby nicks
    • Rims: Schürmann Yak 622 Disc
    • Front hub: Shimano Disc HB-M475
    • Rear hub: Shimano Disc FH-M475
    • Spokes: DT Industry 2.0
    • Inner Tube: Schwalbe Impac AV17
    • Rim Tape: Schwalbe 22-622
    • Pedals: Fasten Alu
    • Seat: Scape Active 7
    • Seatpost: RFR Complight 31,6mm
    • Seatclamp: Scape Varioclose 34.9mm
    • Weight: 12.8kg

    Doesn't say anything about a tapered steerer (that's where the top of the steerer tube is narrower than the bottom) so I think you can probably assume that it's standard!

    I really wouldn't bother with the Suntour fork if you intend going offroad at all! The Acid is a decent entry level MTB frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    Thanks again lads, should make life a bit easier looking around for other parts :)

    I'm actually building a cheap tourer, so the forks would probably be locked out most of the time to begin with, but I'll definitely keep your advice in mind - I've read some bad reviews about those forks :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    If it's a tourer you might be better off with a rigid fork, something like a Kona p2 would be better than the suntour fork and a lot lighter too!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    SomeFool wrote: »
    If it's a tourer you might be better off with a rigid fork, something like a Kona p2 would be better than the suntour fork and a lot lighter too!

    You're probably right, I was kind of trying to keep my options open, but primarily being opportunistic with a Suntour fork I saw being sold quite cheap. I'll give it a while and see if a rigid fork appears for a similar price.

    Do rigid ones have to be "suspension corrected" or something like that?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    you can get a suspension corrected fork, something like kona p2, or even the exotic ones on ebay which come in 42.5cm or 44.5cm, 44.5 is the suspension corrected one ( i have a carbon exotic and find it grand)

    Loads on the bay actually


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    Thanks SomeFool - appreciate it :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 437 ✭✭t1mm


    Hope you don't mind another quick question regarding wheels lads:

    Are front/rear wheels different? How so? (the hubs in the above spec appear to be different).


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