Cast Iron down pipe as flue

arse..biscuits

I'm building a garden room and I'm going to heat it with a small stove. I have a length of cast iron down pipe which fits snugly around the stove's output thing. I lit the stove in the garden today as a trial and put the down pipe in position, it seems to do the job just fine.

Has anyone tried this before or is there any reason why this is a bad idea?

Thanks.

TPM

arse..biscuits wrote: »

I'm building a garden room and I'm going to heat it with a small stove. I have a length of cast iron down pipe which fits snugly around the stove's output thing. I lit the stove in the garden today as a trial and put the down pipe in position, it seems to do the job just fine.

Has anyone tried this before or is there any reason why this is a bad idea?

Thanks.

Yes the downpipe was not designed/manufactured to withstand any heat at all let alone the massive heat that a stove flue gets to.
It could easily split or even explode.

Hootanany

TPM wrote: »

Yes the downpipe was not designed/manufactured to withstand any heat at all let alone the massive heat that a stove flue gets to.
It could easily split or even explode.

Then why are they put on a stove

TPM

Hootanany wrote: »

Then why are they put on a stove

cast iron downpipe is not used on stoves, cast iron flue is.
The cast iron flue piped are designed/manufactured for the high levels of heat they get exposed to, the cast is less porous/ more dense

Just because two items are made from similar materials, we are all aware of plastic pipes which we use for hot water/heating, there are even plastic kettles, but there are plastic items that will distort badly or even melt if exposed to hot water.

gdavis

wrong on so many levels!!

TPM

gdavis wrote: »

wrong on so many levels!!

Which post?

gdavis

the op's TPM,the mind boggles!!

Hootanany

TPM wrote: »

cast iron downpipe is not used on stoves, cast iron flue is.
The cast iron flue piped are designed/manufactured for the high levels of heat they get exposed to, the cast is less porous/ more dense

Just because two items are made from similar materials, we are all aware of plastic pipes which we use for hot water/heating, there are even plastic kettles, but there are plastic items that will distort badly or even melt if exposed to hot water.

Sorry did not see DOWNPIPE going to Specsavers first light in the afternoon.

arse..biscuits

Fair enough.

My second option is a steel flue from an old boiler, would that do the job?

arse..biscuits

Fair enough.

My second option is a steel flue from an old boiler, would that do the job?

shane0007

arse..biscuits wrote: »

Fair enough.

My second option is a steel flue from an old boiler, would that do the job?

No it is not. You must use a flue that is suitable for solid fuel. You don't mess around with any fossil fuel, whether it be oil, gas, coal, etc. Incorrectly installed, ventilated, flued & set up WILL LEAD TO INCOMPLETE COMBUSTION & CO POISONING.

It beggars belief why a DIY'er will happily put people's lives at risk for the sake of saving a few quid. Get a professional in, use the correct materials as the manufacturer's intended & enjoy, not search your garden or shed to see what you can bang together!

arse..biscuits

shane0007 wrote: »

No it is not. You must use a flue that is suitable for solid fuel. You don't mess around with any fossil fuel, whether it be oil, gas, coal, etc. Incorrectly installed, ventilated, flued & set up WILL LEAD TO INCOMPLETE COMBUSTION & CO POISONING.

It beggars belief why a DIY'er will happily put people's lives at risk for the sake of saving a few quid. Get a professional in, use the correct materials as the manufacturer's intended & enjoy, not search your garden or shed to see what you can bang together!

I'm not happily putting people's lives at risk. I'm asking questions to see what I can or can't use. That's how people learn, by asking questions.

shane0007

arse..biscuits wrote: »

I'm not happily putting people's lives at risk. I'm asking questions to see what I can or can't use. That's how people learn, by asking questions.

So after receiving your advice, how will you recognise mistakes you have potentially made with your installation?
It is not a DIY job. It is for a trained & experienced installer.

arse..biscuits

I installed a much bigger stove in my living room a few years ago and no problems. It's not that difficult in fairness.

shane0007

arse..biscuits wrote: »

I installed a much bigger stove in my living room a few years ago and no problems. It's not that difficult in fairness.

And was that one also installed with a rainwater downpipe???
Just because you survived your installation don't make it right.

arse..biscuits

shane0007 wrote: »

And was that one also installed with a rainwater downpipe???
Just because you survived your installation don't make it right.

No, 6" flue into a 90 bend and up the chimney in flexi flue. Fire cement on all joints. Carbon monoxide detector in room.

boiler break downs

arse..biscuits wrote: »

No, 6" flue into a 90 bend and up the chimney in flexi flue. Fire cement on all joints. Carbon monoxide detector in room.

Its recommended to have two 45 bends and how close did you tie in the flexi to the stove and how did you join it.did you use vermiculite. How much of the heart is in front of the door of the stove.is there a rain hood . Because it works that doesnt mean its done right.listen to the guys here and get sound safe advice.we see bad jobs every week and we push co alarms like a good thing. I have fitted many and the alarms have gone off .don't try safe money on what could be done very easily at a reasonable cost.when people wont have there stove put right I insist on co alarm. Then when it goes off im back fitting it.

mister gullible

Hi arse..biscuits,
No need to mind the lads that pour scorn on your diy installation question. Just go to a reputable stove supplier, ask him what you need (cheapest option) and then save cash by fitting it yourself. It's going to be pretty simple.

DoneDL

arse..biscuits, There is nothing wrong with your theory but in practice if the flue is not of a suitable material and build quality then it will not clear the products of combustion efficiently,. This runs the risk of carbon monoxide leaking back into the property. Then there is also the concern of any DIY flue being fine in mild temperatures but dangerous in cold temperatures. I would always advise that following manufacturers and building regulations as being a minimum requirement.

arse..biscuits

Cheers for the advice lads, I'll pop in to somewhere tomorrow for some non rainwater flue.
Anywhere in Dublin south/west that is recommended?

freddyuk

If you have a 90 degree bend you may want to consider how you will sweep the flue each year as recommended. If you have access plate above the bend then OK but then you should not have a 90 degree bend in the first place close to the appliance as said above; 45 x 2 is recommended. There are some regulations to save people from themselves but then there are some regulations that actually make total sense in a practical way ie. ease of cleaning/servicing. Worth asking professional company and taking advice above to save expensive mistakes. DIY is not a problem then. Make sure your chimney is clear of obstructions as a small blob of mortar can jam up your flu liner and you will be stuffed.

Dtp79

arse..biscuits wrote: »

No, 6" flue into a 90 bend and up the chimney in flexi flue. Fire cement on all joints. Carbon monoxide detector in room.

Did u use vermiculite? What kind of flexible flue did u use?

arse..biscuits

Dtp79 wrote: »

Did u use vermiculite? What kind of flexible flue did u use?

Don't know. Fire cement anyway.

It is a 6" silver one that cost €30/metre I think. I got it all from the same place that sold me the stove.

Dtp79

arse..biscuits wrote: »

Don't know. Fire cement anyway.

It is a 6" silver one that cost €30/metre I think. I got it all from the same place that sold me the stove.

Make sure the flexi flue was twin walled. Did u pour vermiculite around the flue from top to bottom all around the flexi flue?

arse..biscuits

Dtp79 wrote: »

Make sure the flexi flue was twin walled. Did u pour vermiculite around the flue from top to bottom all around the flexi flue?

No, didn't pour anything around the flue.

Dtp79

arse..biscuits wrote: »

No, didn't pour anything around the flue.

This is why these jobs should be done by professionals and not DIY ers trying to save a few bob.
I actually don't know what consequences lie ahead for you with this flexi flue( assuming its twin wall) because there is no vermiculite around it. If I were you I'd ring the manufacturer of the flexi flue and tell them the story. How did you join the flexi to the rigid flue?