Tips For Wiring A Strat

666irishguy

Anybody Wired a Strat before? I am just looking for some advice on what I should be looking out for and if anybody has any links to a decent wiring diagram that might be broken down into steps. I have wired a few LP type guitars before, but got a bit of a surprise when I took the scratch-plate off the Strat and saw the way they are setup.

wild turkey

https://www.google.ie/search?q=stratocaster+wiring+diagram&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=n10&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=KgnqUJjmMIbQhAf2ioHYBA&ved=0CDEQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=639

Should be enough to pick which one you need
Dont use lead free solder
Make sure the iron is hot enough

I add a set of mini spade connectors to the outputs & earth so I can remove the pickguard completely instead of it swinging out of the guitar

666irishguy

Nice one. Thanks. Would never have though of that little mini spade trick. I have a HSS strat and it's near impossible find a good clear diagram for one. Got one from your link. I don't suppose you'd know if it's possible to wire up the Humbucker in such a way as it splits when the switch is on the 2nd position instead of having it Humbucker and Middle?

TroutMask

if you go to Stewmac.com you'll find schematics for every type of guitar going. Easy to follow too. Don't agree with not using lead-free, e.g. silver solder is lead-free and is far superior for passing audio signal.

martinedwards

good range of wiring diagrams at www.guitarelctronics.com.

I once had a strat with three mini H/Bs.... 3 volumes, each with a push on/ push off coil split switch and a master tone......

no switch, just the volumes to turn the pups off (like a jazz bass.....)

oh yeah, with a piezo bridge and a volume for that too......

yup, 5 knobs and no blade switch.

that took about 4 different wiring diagrams and a LOAD of thinking!!

666irishguy

There are some insane combinations out there. I saw one lad with a hand drawn diagram with an extra volume nob, the clapton boost thing and about two other switches. The Stewmac diagram coupled with a link to a Seymour Duncan one I found on Wild Turnkey's link, has led me to the conclusion I need a Push Pull pot to split the Humbucker in the first position other wise I'd just have auto split or need a super switch. I was going to get another push pull for the tone pot and see what I could do with that but I already have a cts wiring kit on the way so I don't want to make that purchase a waste of time. A good little place to get good parts is Axesrus in the UK. They answer any questions you email them within an hour or two and they take Laser which is a miracle.

wild turkey

I have a Peavey T-60 that has a very strange but great wiring system
On 10 its a single coil that rolls to a humbucker on 7 after 7 its a normal tone control
but in between 10 & 7 you can get great p-90 tones & more

Theres a wiring diagram in this discussion

http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?13724-Awesome-way-to-split-pickups-without-buying-a-push-pull-pot-of-extra-switch!

Your only looking at the tone & volume pots & im sure youll be able to work it into a strat
If you cant you can just use the spin a split diagram on the Duncan website


As for the silver solder ive never used it ,I was referring to the normal lead free solder.
It doesnt flow well, takes more heat to get it to flow which can damage pots & also melts the insulating wire
Ive had problems with it every time I used it , after a few guitars gave me bother I threw out the spool

TroutMask

wild turkey wrote: »

As for the silver solder ive never used it ,I was referring to the normal lead free solder.
It doesnt flow well, takes more heat to get it to flow which can damage pots & also melts the insulating wire
Ive had problems with it every time I used it , after a few guitars gave me bother I threw out the spool

I've gotta say - just don't agreed with most of this. Lead-free solder is around for a reason: it's called ROHS and it is put there to make sure that we all don't end up drinking lead. Good-quality* lead-free solder flows quite well if you use a good iron with a clean, tinned tip. It is true that it needs a little more heat to get it to flow - but not much. I've never had a guitar pot damaged by heat - in fact it usually takes extra heat to solder a ground bus to the cans**. I usually apply extra heat with a brazing torch or sometimes a second iron. Some people use a high-wattage iron or a 'soldering gun' for this. As far as melting the insulation goes - connector wire with non-thermoplastic insulation should always be used. Caps and any other heat sensitive components can (and should!) be protected by using a clip-on heatsink if local overheating is an issue.

* I did get a spool of Lead-free solder from Maplin once and it was terrible. The flux was very aggressive and destroyed my soldering iron tip. Switched to Weller and it's fine.

** some pot cans have a layer of lacquer - they will not take solder until you clean this off

wild turkey

I actually got it in Maplins,
I only ever got the one spool of it & never bought it again
Im happy with 60/40 & dont think I'll go lead free again but every man to his own